Our teak cockpit combing needs to be replaced. I know the combing is screwed through the glass, but is it also bonded or glued, and is the adhesive a big problem during removal? Also, what wood is used to space the combing out from the side of the cabin? Any info or experience would be a big help. Thanks
intsnx@aol.com
CD27 teak replacement
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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JimL
Re: CD27 teak replacement
I just finished a big rework on my CD25 teak. If your teak can be salvaged (mine looked hopeless and came out great), here's a tip for removing silicone, life caulk, or urethane sealer from the back of the teak. Get a cheap D-A air sander (dual action, has a round disc and a lock-unlock knob under the mandril). These sanders can be set to "freewheel" the round pad, when the lock knob is turned free. In this position they cut bottom paint very well, without eating away too much gel coat (use No-Fil 100 grit disks). When the knob is turned in, they spin like a small grinder, but faster.
Get a velcro backing pad and sanding disks (industrial hardwares can help you out) and use the No-Fil disks with the knob locked. Use very, very light pressure, at the edge of the disk and it'll melt away any kind of sealer you find! It won't gouge like a large sander or grinder would.
I wouldn't recommend this sander on the finish side of your teak, as it's a little too agressive. It might be ok for a first cut, set on freewheel, with fine grit disks.
I was able to pull some splits back together by deep drilling from the bottom edge, injecting 30 minute epoxy, and clamping and screwing with long stainless screws (left screws in). The epoxy sands off when cured, and Cetol looks great. Hope this info is of some use.
leinfam@earthlink.net
Get a velcro backing pad and sanding disks (industrial hardwares can help you out) and use the No-Fil disks with the knob locked. Use very, very light pressure, at the edge of the disk and it'll melt away any kind of sealer you find! It won't gouge like a large sander or grinder would.
I wouldn't recommend this sander on the finish side of your teak, as it's a little too agressive. It might be ok for a first cut, set on freewheel, with fine grit disks.
I was able to pull some splits back together by deep drilling from the bottom edge, injecting 30 minute epoxy, and clamping and screwing with long stainless screws (left screws in). The epoxy sands off when cured, and Cetol looks great. Hope this info is of some use.
leinfam@earthlink.net
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Will W
Re: CD27 teak replacement
Hi Hud
I had to redo my Coming Boards on my CD25 last season. I had broken the brass jib cleat off one day when climbing back on board after doing a man overboard drill for my dog, who just couldn't resist taking the plunge one very hot summer day. Fortunatly for me they came right off with no effort( The caulk that had been used to help the seal easily came off). I have heard some real nasty stories about this job though. I hope for you that you are not one of the people who starts this project, only to discover that some previous owner thought the Coming Boards need never come off again, used 5200 or some other stong glue to take the place of the caulk.
If you do have to pull them off in pieces, I'm pretty sure you can buy new ones from mystic marine. You can find a link to their site at More About Cape Dorys on this board. I actually reshaped my Coming boards so that they take a 1.5 to 2 inch step down between the winch and the jib cleat. I did this because I didn't think to try to repair the area I had broken like JimL did. That said, I don't like the look I have acheived as much as the original continuous slope from fore to aft, but I have noticed that I don't get any varnish rubbed off by the Jib Sheets anymore. Anyway, good luck and I hope you won't need it. Also there are many discussions on this subject in the archives. The information already there should help you out as this subject comes up regularly.
Will Wheatley
Suzi Q
CD25
willwheatley@starpower.net
I had to redo my Coming Boards on my CD25 last season. I had broken the brass jib cleat off one day when climbing back on board after doing a man overboard drill for my dog, who just couldn't resist taking the plunge one very hot summer day. Fortunatly for me they came right off with no effort( The caulk that had been used to help the seal easily came off). I have heard some real nasty stories about this job though. I hope for you that you are not one of the people who starts this project, only to discover that some previous owner thought the Coming Boards need never come off again, used 5200 or some other stong glue to take the place of the caulk.
If you do have to pull them off in pieces, I'm pretty sure you can buy new ones from mystic marine. You can find a link to their site at More About Cape Dorys on this board. I actually reshaped my Coming boards so that they take a 1.5 to 2 inch step down between the winch and the jib cleat. I did this because I didn't think to try to repair the area I had broken like JimL did. That said, I don't like the look I have acheived as much as the original continuous slope from fore to aft, but I have noticed that I don't get any varnish rubbed off by the Jib Sheets anymore. Anyway, good luck and I hope you won't need it. Also there are many discussions on this subject in the archives. The information already there should help you out as this subject comes up regularly.
Will Wheatley
Suzi Q
CD25
Hud Smith wrote: Our teak cockpit combing needs to be replaced. I know the combing is screwed through the glass, but is it also bonded or glued, and is the adhesive a big problem during removal? Also, what wood is used to space the combing out from the side of the cabin? Any info or experience would be a big help. Thanks
willwheatley@starpower.net