CD25 Halyards to the Cockpit??

[Max Treece]

Has anyone figured out a good way to get main and jib halyards back to the cockpit to facilitate hoisting and releasing the sails without going forward on a Cape Dory 25. On my 1974 model, the deck is not flat nor easy to get to with the headliner in the cabin. Any suggestions?



metreece@duke-energy.com

[Jon]

Max,

I put a set of cheek blocks on the mast and cam cleats on the roof. It works prety well. I've also seen them run along the side of the hatch on some 25s, in a more traditional manner.

Jon
CD25 Sovereign



[img]http://www.sailorjon.net/images/HalReef_led_Aft.jpg[/img]

[Max Treece]

Jon,
Thanks for the picture. I wasn't sure that the hatch cover was strong enough for the strain of the line. My cover looks like a piece of plastic instead of fiberglass. Did you add any re-enforcement under the cam cleats? I notice there are 5 dots on you hatch cover. What are those and what is underneath?

Max,

I put a set of cheek blocks on the mast and cam cleats on the roof. It works prety well. I've also seen them run along the side of the hatch on some 25s, in a more traditional manner.

Jon
CD25 Sovereign

metreece@duke-energy.com

[Jim]

I have my main halyard and jiffy reefing lines running aft to a double stopper and winch on the cabin top. A hole in the liner above the light in the head and with an access plate next to the electric panel accomplished this. The jib halyard is tied off at the mast as I have roller furling.



[img]http://www.sailorjon.net/images/Fair%20 ... 0Empty.jpg[/img]
jmyers@styluscentral.com

[Mike Buppert]

I was considering a setup like your's for "Lucille" our 1975 CD25, but I was concerned about the fleet angle of the halyards going into the deck organizer. Do you get any chafing there?

Mike Buppert
s/v Lucille
CD25
Toms River Yacht Club
Barnegat Bay, NJ

I have my main halyard and jiffy reefing lines running aft to a double stopper and winch on the cabin top. A hole in the liner above the light in the head and with an access plate next to the electric panel accomplished this. The jib halyard is tied off at the mast as I have roller furling.

buppert@csionline.net

[Jim]

None. there is a turning block just forward of the mast step. The double organizer/turning block is mounted on an angled base. It runs very free and easy. I installed a Strong sail track. When I let the main halyard go the sail drops immediately into the lazyjacks. As I sail alone or with small kids I need to be able to douse sails rapidly in the event a problem occurs.



jmyers@styluscentral.com

[Jon]

I notice there are 5 dots on you hatch cover. What are those and what is underneath?

Max,

Underneath the dots is the whole rest of the boat :~) Those are just the snaps for the dodger. My boat has a balsa cored glass spray hood. It is secred by a long row of wood screws along the side. It is plenty strong to hold the cam cleats in place. I mounted a winch too after that photo was taken. The link should take you to see the whole set up.

Cheers,
Jon

[Jon]

~)

Maybe this link will work!

[JimL]

It sounds like your sea hood is like mine (I have CD25 #21). It was broken when I got the boat (a little flimsy). I reinforced it by laying 24 oz. cloth inside, with a layer of 6 oz. over that (using epoxy resin, dyed white). Of course this is done with the part removed. Next, I added 4 layers of 6 oz., 1" fiberglass tape (epoxy resin) inside the back edge (it was split). To refinish the outside, I used a single layer of 6 oz. cloth, wrapped over the sides and clamped at the flange using wax paper and 2 wooden yardsticks per side (above and below flange). This clamp method allows you to squeegee the cloth with dyed polyester resin for a very nice non-skid surface. Don't use epoxy on the outside because it turns yellow in the sun. The sea hood is now strong enough to jump on, and the old gelcoat (what's left after I ground it almost completely off) is buried in a durable coating. If you want a smoother surface, apply wax paper over the whole surface, then roll the wax paper with a formica roller. Leave the wax paper on until cured, it will come off easily. Be sure to add 2% sanding surfacer (styrene wax) to your resin, to ensure complete cure. A little sanding may be needed.
You could increase the width of the seahood side flanges (maybe 4 tabs, only), during this process, to allow for through bolting (using maybe 4 teak blocks). This would give room to get outside the hatch groove in the rails. Your reinforced sea hood could not rip loose, this way.
I used the same "cloth/waxpaper/yardsticks/many clamps" method to rebuild the sliding hatch and the cockpit hatches (all the hatch gelcoat was bad from long storage in SoCal sun). Use the waxpaper/yardsticks to recreate the smooth areas around non-skid, and squeegee the cloth for non-skid texture in the blue area. Not quite as pretty as new, but very serviceable and TOUGH AS NAILS!!



leinfam@earthlink.net