question re: batteries & also battery switches

[Joel]

I need to replace the batteries on my CD27 (Yanmar YSB-8). The stores and catalogs offer a bewildering range of options with regard to type of battery, marine cranking amperage, reserve capacity, Amp/Hrs, brand, etc. What do I need and what do you recommend?

Secondly, my battery selector switch is full of dire warnings not to shut the switch with the engine running else you'll damage the alternator. My understanding is that you can start the engine on #1, then after running for a time on #1 you can turn the switch to #2 while the engine is running as long as you don't pass through the "off" position. Am I correct?



joels@ids.net

[Bob B]

The West Marine and Boat US catalogs, both have good sections describing the different attributes of the different styles of batteries. I really can't speak to that as much as I can to the alternator/selector switch problem. When cranking your boat, most people recommend that you have the switch set to both batteries. This will provide the most power to crank your batteries. Don't change the setting. Shifting from one to the other sometimes rotates through a notch where there is not contact, even if you don't pass through the off section. The batteries will charge fine with it set on both. After you cut off your engine, shift the setting to your house bank and run your radios, lights, etc off of that. My alternator blew the diode as I was changing from "both" to "1" or "2" and I would have been in real trouble without solar charging aboard.

Another thing, your having a YSB-8 should allow you to easily hand crank the engine if your batteries are low. Set the selector on both, trip the decompression lever, using the hand crank turn the engine over until it picks up some speed and then release the decompression lever. Mine would crank every time and I didn't worry about the battery deal as much.

I need to replace the batteries on my CD27 (Yanmar YSB-8). The stores and catalogs offer a bewildering range of options with regard to type of battery, marine cranking amperage, reserve capacity, Amp/Hrs, brand, etc. What do I need and what do you recommend?

Secondly, my battery selector switch is full of dire warnings not to shut the switch with the engine running else you'll damage the alternator. My understanding is that you can start the engine on #1, then after running for a time on #1 you can turn the switch to #2 while the engine is running as long as you don't pass through the "off" position. Am I correct?

Bundyr@aol.com

[Joel]

I thought about using the hand crank, but I haven't been able to figure out where the gizmo is that I'm supposed to crank. The only documentation I have is a very short (8 pages or so) leaflet on the YSE engine, and I find the diagrams there bewilderingly confusing. I think (but am not sure) that I've found the decompression lever. Can you try to describe what each of the three parts look like and where they are hiding (the decompression lever, the crank handle, and whatever the crank handle attaches to.) Thanks a million.

Another thing, your having a YSB-8 should allow you to easily hand crank the engine if your batteries are low. Set the selector on both, trip the decompression lever, using the hand crank turn the engine over until it picks up some speed and then release the decompression lever. Mine would crank every time and I didn't worry about the battery deal as much.

joels@ids.net

[Neil Gordon]

>>...after running for a time on #1 you can turn the switch to #2 while the engine is running as long as you don't pass through the "off" position. Am I correct?<<

Sooner or later, your brother-in-law (or equivalent) will get it wrong and blow the diodes.

Start and charge on both, when you douse the motor, switch to 1 or 2, depending on what you're using for the house bank.


Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167



cdory28@aol.com

[John R.]

I need to replace the batteries on my CD27 (Yanmar YSB-8). The stores and catalogs offer a bewildering range of options with regard to type of battery, marine cranking amperage, reserve capacity, Amp/Hrs, brand, etc. What do I need and what do you recommend?

Secondly, my battery selector switch is full of dire warnings not to shut the switch with the engine running else you'll damage the alternator. My understanding is that you can start the engine on #1, then after running for a time on #1 you can turn the switch to #2 while the engine is running as long as you don't pass through the "off" position. Am I correct?

Save yourself a lot of concern and worry about the relative or onboard visitor blowing the diodes. Invest in a "Zap" stop diode. They're around 20 bucks or so at most marine supply stores. you can always go to your local electronics supply and get the components and make your own as an alternative. You can also use a field disconnect battery switch as made by Perko, but I would still use the diode protector to be on the safe side if you are really concerned.

[Larry DeMers]

Hi John, and all,

Question;..does the Zap Stopper (basicly a Zener diode with a high (>200V) PIV rating, right?) get blown when exposed to a voltage spike it is intended to pass to gnd.? I had heard stories that once it has been exposed to an overvoltage spike, it was blown and needed replacement.
I agree that the field disconnect battery switches may not be fast enough to prevent the spike that kills the alt's diode pack. Indeed, the Zap Stopper may not be fast enough to stop the damage.

My advice is to install a Battery Combiner between the alternator and the battery banks. This device will eliminate the danger of the alternator seeing no load, because there is always one battery connected to the alternator output at all times..it is hardwired that way in fact, if Heart's instructions are followed. You also can forget about remembering to switch from the start battery to the house battery for charging etc. It is all done automatically, and at the voltage levels that the battery manufacture specifies.

Peace,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

I need to replace the batteries on my CD27 (Yanmar YSB-8). The stores and catalogs offer a bewildering range of options with regard to type of battery, marine cranking amperage, reserve capacity, Amp/Hrs, brand, etc. What do I need and what do you recommend?

Secondly, my battery selector switch is full of dire warnings not to shut the switch with the engine running else you'll damage the alternator. My understanding is that you can start the engine on #1, then after running for a time on #1 you can turn the switch to #2 while the engine is running as long as you don't pass through the "off" position. Am I correct?

Save yourself a lot of concern and worry about the relative or onboard visitor blowing the diodes. Invest in a "Zap" stop diode. They're around 20 bucks or so at most marine supply stores. you can always go to your local electronics supply and get the components and make your own as an alternative. You can also use a field disconnect battery switch as made by Perko, but I would still use the diode protector to be on the safe side if you are really concerned.

demers@sgi.com

[Bob B.]

I thought about using the hand crank, but I haven't been able to figure out where the gizmo is that I'm supposed to crank. The only documentation I have is a very short (8 pages or so) leaflet on the YSE engine, and I find the diagrams there bewilderingly confusing. I think (but am not sure) that I've found the decompression lever. Can you try to describe what each of the three parts look like and where they are hiding (the decompression lever, the crank handle, and whatever the crank handle attaches to.) Thanks a million.

Hand crank - pipe about 1-1.5 inches in diameter, about a foot long with handle on one end and notches on the other. This attaches to the shaft running out of the face of the engine where the belts and such attach.

Decompression lever - on starboard side of the engine above the cylinder head. The lever has a spring on it that causes it to only decompress when you are pushing against it.

Maybe this is clearer.

Another thing, your having a YSB-8 should allow you to easily hand crank the engine if your batteries are low. Set the selector on both, trip the decompression lever, using the hand crank turn the engine over until it picks up some speed and then release the decompression lever. Mine would crank every time and I didn't worry about the battery deal as much.

BundyR@aol.com

[John R.]

Hi John, and all,

Question;..does the Zap Stopper (basicly a Zener diode with a high (>200V) PIV rating, right?) get blown when exposed to a voltage spike it is intended to pass to gnd.? I had heard stories that once it has been exposed to an overvoltage spike, it was blown and needed replacement.
I agree that the field disconnect battery switches may not be fast enough to prevent the spike that kills the alt's diode pack. Indeed, the Zap Stopper may not be fast enough to stop the damage.

My advice is to install a Battery Combiner between the alternator and the battery banks. This device will eliminate the danger of the alternator seeing no load, because there is always one battery connected to the alternator output at all times..it is hardwired that way in fact, if Heart's instructions are followed. You also can forget about remembering to switch from the start battery to the house battery for charging etc. It is all done automatically, and at the voltage levels that the battery manufacture specifies.

Peace,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

I need to replace the batteries on my CD27 (Yanmar YSB-8). The stores and catalogs offer a bewildering range of options with regard to type of battery, marine cranking amperage, reserve capacity, Amp/Hrs, brand, etc. What do I need and what do you recommend?

Secondly, my battery selector switch is full of dire warnings not to shut the switch with the engine running else you'll damage the alternator. My understanding is that you can start the engine on #1, then after running for a time on #1 you can turn the switch to #2 while the engine is running as long as you don't pass through the "off" position. Am I correct?

Save yourself a lot of concern and worry about the relative or onboard visitor blowing the diodes. Invest in a "Zap" stop diode. They're around 20 bucks or so at most marine supply stores. you can always go to your local electronics supply and get the components and make your own as an alternative. You can also use a field disconnect battery switch as made by Perko, but I would still use the diode protector to be on the safe side if you are really concerned.

Yeah Larry that is correct, they blow. Except, the Zap Stoppers I know of that are presently installed have stopped alternator diode damage and were plenty fast enough to prevent damage.

Personally when in the business I never came across a Perko switch w/FD that never functioned properly or failed to protect an alternator. That's certainly not to say that it hasn't happened somewhere. That's why the switch in my opinion is the first line of defense and using the Zap stop as backup is as good of a fail safe as one is to find. Of cousre there is a very good case to be made for a locking battery switch! (Don't lose the key).

Battery combiners are a good concept but are costly and do complicate a system and because they are automatic add additional potential for failure but as we all know there are always compromises to all concepts in a boats systems. This is one of those cases where good arguments can be made for all concepts.