Teak Trim on Companion Way Hatch Cover

[Frank Vernet]

Alcon

Does anyone know where I can locate a replacement for the above part? This is the narrow teak trim that runs across the companion way sliding hatch cover. It fits on my CD33 and was damaged during shipment - both compression and abrasion damage.

Thanks in advance.

Frank Vernet
CO Sirius
CD33 #84



frank.vernet@bmdo.osd.mil

[Ken Coit]

Frank,

To save you and others some time I am cutting and pasting from an earlier message from Catherine on this subject:

"Go to the top of the Message Board and click on "Where to Look". Once there you'll see sources for Cape Dory parts.
Mystic Marine has the patterns for all the linear teak mouldings for Cape Dory boats. Contact Duncan Maio, Mystic Marine,
293 Lenox Street, Norwood, MA 02062. (781) 440-0914 or (781) 329-9006; fax (781) 329-9347, e-mail mail@mysticmarine.net."

Duncan participates regularly on the board, so you are likely to hear from him as well.

Regards,

Ken
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC

Alcon

Does anyone know where I can locate a replacement for the above part? This is the narrow teak trim that runs across the companion way sliding hatch cover. It fits on my CD33 and was damaged during shipment - both compression and abrasion damage.

Thanks in advance.

Frank Vernet
CO Sirius
CD33 #84

parfait@nc.rr.com

[Mystic Marine]

Frank:

We can make up replacements for you, if you can send the old parts. If you are looking for the fore-aft rails that the hatch cover slides in, we recently did a set for a CD28 for about $300 (plus tax and shipping), and yours should be similar.

Let me know if you are interested.

Duncan Maio
Mystic Marine
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37

p.s. many thanks to Ken for the plug.



mail@mysticmarine.net

[Stan W.]

Duncan:

I think he just means the piece of trim that runs athwartships across the top of the sliding hatch. On my 28 it is approximately 1/2" wide by 3/4" tall by 2' long with a radius on the top edge.

By the way, the new hatch rails were fairly straight forward to install and look great.

The only complication was where the screws go vertically through the teak to secure the plastic stops in the ends. The teak is very thin on top in this location and the pressure of the screws caused one of the rails to split from the end through the two screw holes. In the future, I would suggest modifying the original design so that the stops are countersunk and fastened with screws running horizontally through the stops into the rail behind the stops. This will leave nothing but teak showing on the tops of the rails (an aesthetic improvement in my opinion) and eliminate the risk of splitting the tops that seems inherent in the original design.



smwheatley@capecod.net

[Jim Sullivan]

Alcon

Does anyone know where I can locate a replacement for the above part? This is the narrow teak trim that runs across the companion way sliding hatch cover. It fits on my CD33 and was damaged during shipment - both compression and abrasion damage.

Thanks in advance.

Frank Vernet

This is a relatively easy project if you have access to a table saw and some basic hand tools. I've replaced pieces similar to what you have described on my typhoon. I've also replaced sections of toe rail. If you don't have a table saw, I would recommend bringing the pieces of teak you wish to replace to a woodworking shop or a carpenter experienced in finish work. They might have teak in stock which could be used to fabricate these trim pieces or could readily obtain these materials. I believe this would be much less expensive and of comparable quality than some of the options that have been offered. Good luck.

CO Sirius
CD33 #84

atea@att.net

[Mystic Marine]

The only complication was where the screws go vertically through the teak to secure the plastic stops in the ends. The teak is very thin on top in this location and the pressure of the screws caused one of the rails to split from the end through the two screw holes. In the future, I would suggest modifying the original design so that the stops are countersunk and fastened with screws running horizontally through the stops into the rail behind the stops. This will leave nothing but teak showing on the tops of the rails (an aesthetic improvement in my opinion) and eliminate the risk of splitting the tops that seems inherent in the original design.

Excellent suggestion, and sorry about the installation problem.



mail@mysticmarine.net