I've had an unfotunate accident with a metal pier that has resulted in taking a hand's length bite out of a forward section my CD 25's toerail... I understand Mystic can fab a decent replacement, but I'm uncertain if I should tackle the repair myself. I'd wait until haul-out in the fall- but would like to hear feedback from those that have already gone down this road...
Thanks
Steve
CD25
Man O'War
smm64@email.msn.com
teak toe-rail repair advise?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Larry DeMers
Re: teak toe-rail repair advise?
I've replaced a 7 ft. section of toe rail on my CD30, after a bad raft-up with two other boats and some 5 ft. rollers from a large tour boat that circled us partially.
On our boat, the section had quite a bit of curve to it, so I had to use a bit of steam to help with the bend, but on the 25, it apparently is easier to fix, due to a smaller curvature to the rail, and your fix will be small by comparison. You can just shape the teak to the same dimension as the existing rail..using a table saw..if it is the same shape as we have on the CD30. Use at least two S.S. or silicon bronze wood screws with phillips head. Counter sink the screw heads to allow for a bung to be placed over every hole. Glue them in with waterproof yellow glue, allow to dry hard, then saw down the bung close to the surface, and then sand to flush. Stain and finish as you would the rest of the teak. It helps to line the grain of the bung up with that of the surrounding wood, then finish.
You will be scarfing the new piece into the old, and this is where your patience will show up. Do it in your head first, then on paper, then for practice on pine. Finally, after a couple beers and some good advice from fellow boaters, get to it. A motorized miter box is mighty nice to have and use, and it will make accurate cuts for you. Generally, the longer the carfed section, the stronger the bond at the joint. If working with 3/4 in. x 1 in. stock for instance, a scarf will need to be about 6 in. long, and at something like 60 deg. to the grain. Cape Dory uses a modified scarf that has a stepped feature at the beginning and end of the scarf. It looks strong and better, but I was not successful copying it. I did get the regular scarf joint made however, and it was a C+ job for me. I learned some things that I hope to remember next time..if there is a next time.
Cheers!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
On our boat, the section had quite a bit of curve to it, so I had to use a bit of steam to help with the bend, but on the 25, it apparently is easier to fix, due to a smaller curvature to the rail, and your fix will be small by comparison. You can just shape the teak to the same dimension as the existing rail..using a table saw..if it is the same shape as we have on the CD30. Use at least two S.S. or silicon bronze wood screws with phillips head. Counter sink the screw heads to allow for a bung to be placed over every hole. Glue them in with waterproof yellow glue, allow to dry hard, then saw down the bung close to the surface, and then sand to flush. Stain and finish as you would the rest of the teak. It helps to line the grain of the bung up with that of the surrounding wood, then finish.
You will be scarfing the new piece into the old, and this is where your patience will show up. Do it in your head first, then on paper, then for practice on pine. Finally, after a couple beers and some good advice from fellow boaters, get to it. A motorized miter box is mighty nice to have and use, and it will make accurate cuts for you. Generally, the longer the carfed section, the stronger the bond at the joint. If working with 3/4 in. x 1 in. stock for instance, a scarf will need to be about 6 in. long, and at something like 60 deg. to the grain. Cape Dory uses a modified scarf that has a stepped feature at the beginning and end of the scarf. It looks strong and better, but I was not successful copying it. I did get the regular scarf joint made however, and it was a C+ job for me. I learned some things that I hope to remember next time..if there is a next time.
Cheers!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
steve marcotte wrote: I've had an unfotunate accident with a metal pier that has resulted in taking a hand's length bite out of a forward section my CD 25's toerail... I understand Mystic can fab a decent replacement, but I'm uncertain if I should tackle the repair myself. I'd wait until haul-out in the fall- but would like to hear feedback from those that have already gone down this road...
Thanks
Steve
CD25
Man O'War
demers@sgi.com
-
Joel
Re: teak toe-rail repair advise?
I recently replaced both the rub rails and the toe rails on my Typhoon.I bought 1x3 teak at a lumber yard for $1.35 a foot and ripped them into two equal pieces that were suitable for both rails. They were a little shorter than the stock toe rail, but a perfect match for the rub rail. I used a router to ease the edges. The bend wasn't an issue. I started at the bow and worked my way back putting in a stainless screw every 8 inches. If you replace a shorter piece, the bend my be a bit more difficult, though.
Larry's advice abought finishing it all off is right on. I wouldn't want to try it unless she's on the hard.
Have fun,
Joel
Pokey II
'73 Ty Weekender #549
bondy_joel@hotmail.com
Larry's advice abought finishing it all off is right on. I wouldn't want to try it unless she's on the hard.
Have fun,
Joel
Pokey II
'73 Ty Weekender #549
bondy_joel@hotmail.com
-
Chris Scheck
Re: teak toe-rail repair advise?
Just finished repairing a mysterious hit to the rubrail on our CD33. My suggestion is that you not become fixated on replacing just the area of the damage. Consider replacing the entire piece between the original scarf joints. It'll look a lot better, more original, not so "patched." And it won't be that much more work or money.
cscheck@aol.com
cscheck@aol.com