Well assuming the surveyor gets his report to me on time, I'll be closing on a CD32 sloop,hull#4, on Saturday. The survey turned up a few minor things that need addressed. The only item that I consider 'Major' has to do with the cutlass bearing. While on the hard one is able to grab the prop shaft and move it up and down with about 1/8" to 3/16" of play at the cutlass bearing. I would have been surprised if it didn't move at all but I don't know how much is too much. The current bearing has 2 seasons on it and the sellers have been meticulas(sp) in their maintenance.
Do I have a problem? Can it wait for haul out in the fall? (We launched her for the sea trial) How difficult is this job to tackle by yourself? If needed, where is a good place to have the shaft and prop inspected, straightened, etc. in the Annapolis, MD area.
Please help the newest member of the CAPE DORY club.
See you on the Bay!
Brad
bmeilink@shentel.net
Cutlass Bearing
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Stephen
Re: Cutlass Bearing
Brad,Brad Meilink wrote: Well assuming the surveyor gets his report to me on time, I'll be closing on a CD32 sloop,hull#4, on Saturday. The survey turned up a few minor things that need addressed. The only item that I consider 'Major' has to do with the cutlass bearing. While on the hard one is able to grab the prop shaft and move it up and down with about 1/8" to 3/16" of play at the cutlass bearing. I would have been surprised if it didn't move at all but I don't know how much is too much. The current bearing has 2 seasons on it and the sellers have been meticulas(sp) in their maintenance.
Do I have a problem? Can it wait for haul out in the fall? (We launched her for the sea trial) How difficult is this job to tackle by yourself? If needed, where is a good place to have the shaft and prop inspected, straightened, etc. in the Annapolis, MD area.
Please help the newest member of the CAPE DORY club.
See you on the Bay!
Brad
If the cutlass bearing has been in service for two seasons the bearing should be fine. One the side of replacement, I am rebuilding an Alberg 30 and the recommended replacement method is to remove two set screw in the bronze fitting and with a hack saw blade make two fine cuts into the cutlass bearing (bronze piece) and peel back that section. The cutlass should be extremely easy to remove at that time.
The life expectancy of a cutlass bearing in a cruising sail boat is 5-6 year. By the way Walt this is a great page and some excellent information passes this page.
Stephen
jsss@net1plus.comB
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Jon Larson
Re: Cutlass Bearing
Stephen,
I am surprised by your statement that a cutlass bearing has a life of 5 or 6 years. My 1981 Cape Dory 30 still has her original cutlass bearing and the diver who cleans the bottom regularly tells me it is still in good shape. Indeed, it was only three years ago that I had the flax in the stuffing box changed, I was getting nervous about it and now living where the boat is in the water all year around I just pro forma had it replaced. The flax that came out was in great shape.
While we lived back east, PERI was kept on the Hudson River (no matter what direction you sail on the Hudson River there is always a head wind and adverse current,one seems to always power home) and every year she made the trip down the river and around New York City and out to some destination and back. She's cruised as far as Bar Harbor, Maine(a LOT of powering coming back from Down East) and has been to all the major New England ports. Granted she was in storage for four years while I was on various job assignments, but still the bearing looks good. The next haul may indicate differently, we'll see.
I think there may be another factor in cutlass bearing and stuffing box life and that could be engine and shaft alignment. Perhaps that could or should be checked? I suspect a ding in the propellor could also increase wear to a great degree.
Jon Larson
Cape Dory 30 PERI
San Francisco Bay
jon9@ix.netcom.com
I am surprised by your statement that a cutlass bearing has a life of 5 or 6 years. My 1981 Cape Dory 30 still has her original cutlass bearing and the diver who cleans the bottom regularly tells me it is still in good shape. Indeed, it was only three years ago that I had the flax in the stuffing box changed, I was getting nervous about it and now living where the boat is in the water all year around I just pro forma had it replaced. The flax that came out was in great shape.
While we lived back east, PERI was kept on the Hudson River (no matter what direction you sail on the Hudson River there is always a head wind and adverse current,one seems to always power home) and every year she made the trip down the river and around New York City and out to some destination and back. She's cruised as far as Bar Harbor, Maine(a LOT of powering coming back from Down East) and has been to all the major New England ports. Granted she was in storage for four years while I was on various job assignments, but still the bearing looks good. The next haul may indicate differently, we'll see.
I think there may be another factor in cutlass bearing and stuffing box life and that could be engine and shaft alignment. Perhaps that could or should be checked? I suspect a ding in the propellor could also increase wear to a great degree.
Jon Larson
Cape Dory 30 PERI
San Francisco Bay
Stephen wrote: The life expectancy of a cutlass bearing in a cruising sail boat is 5-6 year. By the way Walt this is a great page and some excellent information passes this page.
Stephen
jon9@ix.netcom.com
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Bob
Re: Cutlass Bearing
When we acquired our CD27 our bearing had just been replaced. However, after checking the motor alignment I can see why it was replaced. I had to jack up the front of the motor more than 1/2" to align it with the shaft. You should check your motor shaft alignment at the beginning of each season preferrably after it is in the water (the boat is supported differently while on land). You should not be able to put a .005 feeler gauge between the shaft and motor once you have loosened the connecting bolts.
Bob
Cdchartley@aol.com
Bob
Brad Meilink wrote: Well assuming the surveyor gets his report to me on time, I'll be closing on a CD32 sloop,hull#4, on Saturday. The survey turned up a few minor things that need addressed. The only item that I consider 'Major' has to do with the cutlass bearing. While on the hard one is able to grab the prop shaft and move it up and down with about 1/8" to 3/16" of play at the cutlass bearing. I would have been surprised if it didn't move at all but I don't know how much is too much. The current bearing has 2 seasons on it and the sellers have been meticulas(sp) in their maintenance.
Do I have a problem? Can it wait for haul out in the fall? (We launched her for the sea trial) How difficult is this job to tackle by yourself? If needed, where is a good place to have the shaft and prop inspected, straightened, etc. in the Annapolis, MD area.
Please help the newest member of the CAPE DORY club.
See you on the Bay!
Brad
Cdchartley@aol.com
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Matt Cawthorne
Re: Cutlass Bearing
Brad,
Assuming that the correct cutlass bearing was installed then 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch play after only two years seems excessive. The play in the bearing on my CD-36 is barely perceptable after 4 years. I have heard that cutlass bearings last roughly 7 years, but that depends on the design, how you use the boat, and how well the alignment is done. I suspect that with good care, a good design and gentle use they could last much longer. I can think of several things that could cause premature wear.
1 - Incorrect engine alignment,
Before you buy check to see if any of the mounts are at the limits of their adjustment, both laterally and vertically. Engine alignment is a pain, but not major, unless the mounts are at the limits of their travel. If that is the case then it could be a problem. My boat has 2 mounts which are at the limits of their travel when the engine is just aligned so I am sensitive to the issue.
2 - Broken mount or engine support. Your surveyor should have found this if it were a problem.
3 - Bent shaft. Shafts are not expensive when compared to the total cost of a boat, and often they can be straightened.
4 - Rough surface or scored shaft.
5 - Out of balance prop ????
6 - Propeller blade pitch not the same from one blade to the next. This causes a loading which will tend to wobble the shaft.
You may be able to improve the engine alignment, but you will not be able to fine tune it with that much wear on the bearing. If you continue to use the boat without replacing it then I would recommend checking the stuffing box for leakage each weekend before you leave the boat.
I have used a prop shop in St.Michaels called Kastell brothers. I think it is on Talbot street. They check for bent parts, straighten them if they are bent, re-pitch props, balance assemblies etc. You can find them in the phone book.
Use the search feature on this page to find some how-to's and some how-not-to's on removing the shaft if you do it yourself.
Good luck and welcome aboard.
Ps. Is this boat "Magdalena" ?
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
Assuming that the correct cutlass bearing was installed then 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch play after only two years seems excessive. The play in the bearing on my CD-36 is barely perceptable after 4 years. I have heard that cutlass bearings last roughly 7 years, but that depends on the design, how you use the boat, and how well the alignment is done. I suspect that with good care, a good design and gentle use they could last much longer. I can think of several things that could cause premature wear.
1 - Incorrect engine alignment,
Before you buy check to see if any of the mounts are at the limits of their adjustment, both laterally and vertically. Engine alignment is a pain, but not major, unless the mounts are at the limits of their travel. If that is the case then it could be a problem. My boat has 2 mounts which are at the limits of their travel when the engine is just aligned so I am sensitive to the issue.
2 - Broken mount or engine support. Your surveyor should have found this if it were a problem.
3 - Bent shaft. Shafts are not expensive when compared to the total cost of a boat, and often they can be straightened.
4 - Rough surface or scored shaft.
5 - Out of balance prop ????
6 - Propeller blade pitch not the same from one blade to the next. This causes a loading which will tend to wobble the shaft.
You may be able to improve the engine alignment, but you will not be able to fine tune it with that much wear on the bearing. If you continue to use the boat without replacing it then I would recommend checking the stuffing box for leakage each weekend before you leave the boat.
I have used a prop shop in St.Michaels called Kastell brothers. I think it is on Talbot street. They check for bent parts, straighten them if they are bent, re-pitch props, balance assemblies etc. You can find them in the phone book.
Use the search feature on this page to find some how-to's and some how-not-to's on removing the shaft if you do it yourself.
Good luck and welcome aboard.
Ps. Is this boat "Magdalena" ?
Matt
Brad Meilink wrote: Well assuming the surveyor gets his report to me on time, I'll be closing on a CD32 sloop,hull#4, on Saturday. The survey turned up a few minor things that need addressed. The only item that I consider 'Major' has to do with the cutlass bearing. While on the hard one is able to grab the prop shaft and move it up and down with about 1/8" to 3/16" of play at the cutlass bearing. I would have been surprised if it didn't move at all but I don't know how much is too much. The current bearing has 2 seasons on it and the sellers have been meticulas(sp) in their maintenance.
Do I have a problem? Can it wait for haul out in the fall? (We launched her for the sea trial) How difficult is this job to tackle by yourself? If needed, where is a good place to have the shaft and prop inspected, straightened, etc. in the Annapolis, MD area.
Please help the newest member of the CAPE DORY club.
See you on the Bay!
Brad
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net