Put her (1982 CD30 #235) in the water late Wed. afternoon and Sat. while checking out the head I opened the seacock, pumped and flushed, and closed the seacock. When I came back to her about 20 minutes later there was a small stream of water across the floor. Whoever installed this put the handle in towards the bowl behind hoses, which makes access even more difficult, and there is some corrossion on her. Bottom line was that we had to loosen the locknut and torgue it down to stop the leak for now. Based on several other experienced cruising power boaters opinions, my question is this: Should I replace this seacock with a new ball valve (recommended) or with the standard spartan seacock? If you did a replacement with a ball valve, what brand, etc.? Plan on doing a quick haulout and replace in the sling once parts are in. Thanks in advance for the help!
Chris Schnell
s/v MADNESS III #235
Southport, NC
swabbie@compaq.net
CD30 Head Seacock
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Jim
Re: CD30 Head Seacock
I had a electrolysis problem with my CD 30 "Delta Dawn" and had to replace 5 seacocks. I went with the Spartan seacocks, this was not an easy pull out and replacement due to the fact that the new bolt-hole alignments were not the same as the old seacocks. Required filling old holes and drilling new holes for bolts.
I chose the Sparten seacocks over the boat yard recomended ball valves because I believe that the boat would have sank had it not been for the quality instalation and the strength of the Sparten seacock. Don't let anyone tell you to go with a thru hull and ball valve that is not secured to the boat separately from the thru hull. My thru hulls were gone when I pulled the boat. The bolts holding the seacocks in place kept the boat from sinking.
The one remaining Seacock which was not part of the bonding system had some corrision. I used lapping compound, cleaned the insides up (15 minutes turning back and forth) greased well, and it is working fine.
otter777@aol.com
I chose the Sparten seacocks over the boat yard recomended ball valves because I believe that the boat would have sank had it not been for the quality instalation and the strength of the Sparten seacock. Don't let anyone tell you to go with a thru hull and ball valve that is not secured to the boat separately from the thru hull. My thru hulls were gone when I pulled the boat. The bolts holding the seacocks in place kept the boat from sinking.
The one remaining Seacock which was not part of the bonding system had some corrision. I used lapping compound, cleaned the insides up (15 minutes turning back and forth) greased well, and it is working fine.
otter777@aol.com
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Ken Coit
Re: CD30 Head Seacock
Chris,
Those Spartan seacocks are extremely bulletproof when compared with a ball valve.
It sounds to me as if your seacock may need servicing, not replacing. Can you still actuate it with the additional torque on the flange nut? If so, and it isn't leaking, you may be done. If not, then put her in the slings, take the seacock apart, clean it with mineral spirits, check out how well the barrel and housing mate, lap it in with valve grinding compound, clean it again, grease it with Morey's Red EP (extra pressure) grease from your local NAPA auto parts store, reassemble, and work it to make sure it is smooth in operation. If not, then you may need to re-do the lapping, etc. or replace the seacock. However, all that is easier than replacing the seacock.
Ken
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC
parfait@nc.rr.com
Those Spartan seacocks are extremely bulletproof when compared with a ball valve.
It sounds to me as if your seacock may need servicing, not replacing. Can you still actuate it with the additional torque on the flange nut? If so, and it isn't leaking, you may be done. If not, then put her in the slings, take the seacock apart, clean it with mineral spirits, check out how well the barrel and housing mate, lap it in with valve grinding compound, clean it again, grease it with Morey's Red EP (extra pressure) grease from your local NAPA auto parts store, reassemble, and work it to make sure it is smooth in operation. If not, then you may need to re-do the lapping, etc. or replace the seacock. However, all that is easier than replacing the seacock.
Ken
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC
Chris Schnell wrote: Put her (1982 CD30 #235) in the water late Wed. afternoon and Sat. while checking out the head I opened the seacock, pumped and flushed, and closed the seacock. When I came back to her about 20 minutes later there was a small stream of water across the floor. Whoever installed this put the handle in towards the bowl behind hoses, which makes access even more difficult, and there is some corrossion on her. Bottom line was that we had to loosen the locknut and torgue it down to stop the leak for now. Based on several other experienced cruising power boaters opinions, my question is this: Should I replace this seacock with a new ball valve (recommended) or with the standard spartan seacock? If you did a replacement with a ball valve, what brand, etc.? Plan on doing a quick haulout and replace in the sling once parts are in. Thanks in advance for the help!
Chris Schnell
s/v MADNESS III #235
Southport, NC
parfait@nc.rr.com
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Larry DeMers
Re: CD30 Head Seacock
You should do your own research into vital aspects of your boat, such as seacocks, of course. But the majority opinion is that a ball valve is not as good as a tapered plug, for several resons. The tapered plug can be lubricated and repaired, while the ball valve is not able to do either. Ball valves are constructed to a lighter engineering standard in my opinion. I have seen handles break under normal useage, due to the ball becoming overgrown and inoperable due to infrequent use and crustaceans and critters taking up residence on the ball surface.
So I would suggest taking your seacock apart, use a good quality waterproof grease (Spartan Marine is one source, but there are many others that will work..like waterpump grease. Search other articles on this board for other sources).
In your case, it sounds like the valve was not serviced before launching, or the grease was squeezed out of the valve by over tightening. Also possible is that the valve was not drained properly at winter haulout time, and water froze in the body, distorting it a bit.
All of these ills are fixable by simply pulling the plug out, and either lapping the plug with lapping compound (you apply a very fine grit lapping compound (Spartan Marine), install the plug **from the right side in the head!** (never exchange sides once set or the seacock will be likely to leak due to the plugs having been lapped for the other side), rotate it full motion, tighten the nut a bit more, and rotate it some more etc. until the plug and seacock are tuned to each other),
and/or only cleaning off the old grease and reapplying a thin layer of waterproof grease on both plug and seacock barrel. Reassemble, and tighten a bit until sufficient resistance is felt to allow the handle to stand where you put it while vibrations are present, yet be easily operated.
I think the seacock handle should be operated off the right side of the head seacock, by the way. It will be more accessible there too.
Cheers! and congratulations on your new boat!! Good Choice by the way ;^)
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
So I would suggest taking your seacock apart, use a good quality waterproof grease (Spartan Marine is one source, but there are many others that will work..like waterpump grease. Search other articles on this board for other sources).
In your case, it sounds like the valve was not serviced before launching, or the grease was squeezed out of the valve by over tightening. Also possible is that the valve was not drained properly at winter haulout time, and water froze in the body, distorting it a bit.
All of these ills are fixable by simply pulling the plug out, and either lapping the plug with lapping compound (you apply a very fine grit lapping compound (Spartan Marine), install the plug **from the right side in the head!** (never exchange sides once set or the seacock will be likely to leak due to the plugs having been lapped for the other side), rotate it full motion, tighten the nut a bit more, and rotate it some more etc. until the plug and seacock are tuned to each other),
and/or only cleaning off the old grease and reapplying a thin layer of waterproof grease on both plug and seacock barrel. Reassemble, and tighten a bit until sufficient resistance is felt to allow the handle to stand where you put it while vibrations are present, yet be easily operated.
I think the seacock handle should be operated off the right side of the head seacock, by the way. It will be more accessible there too.
Cheers! and congratulations on your new boat!! Good Choice by the way ;^)
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Chris Schnell wrote: Put her (1982 CD30 #235) in the water late Wed. afternoon and Sat. while checking out the head I opened the seacock, pumped and flushed, and closed the seacock. When I came back to her about 20 minutes later there was a small stream of water across the floor. Whoever installed this put the handle in towards the bowl behind hoses, which makes access even more difficult, and there is some corrossion on her. Bottom line was that we had to loosen the locknut and torgue it down to stop the leak for now. Based on several other experienced cruising power boaters opinions, my question is this: Should I replace this seacock with a new ball valve (recommended) or with the standard spartan seacock? If you did a replacement with a ball valve, what brand, etc.? Plan on doing a quick haulout and replace in the sling once parts are in. Thanks in advance for the help!
Chris Schnell
s/v MADNESS III #235
Southport, NC
demers@sgi.com