The survey showed "moderately corroded" to describe the support bracket and bottom of the muffler. Photos taken in prep for several chores in this confined space suggest it's much worse. The bracket appears completed shot; the muffler has two corners broken. I am planning to replace any and everything that needs replacing, but prior to going in the belly of the beast I'd like to know who else has had to do this, and any advice you may have to offer.
The muffler is top in/top out; Vernay. The bracket appears to attach to the rear of the transmission or engine (I'll check this out carefully). What I want to avoid is breaking any of this other aging equipment trying to get the nuts/bolts off, and to learn any tricks of the trade. Any suggestions from those who have been there/done that will be appreciated.
Joe
S/V Slow Dance
CD 30 #311
sankey@gulftel.com
CD30 Universal M18 (14hp) exhaust
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Jay Ankers
Re: CD30 Universal M18 (14hp) exhaust
Joe:
I replaced the carbon steel bracket a couple of years ago with a shiny new stainless one that I had fabricated from 316L Stainless Steel.
It is only connected to the aft end of the transmission with two hex head machine screws that were not difficult to gain access to. If you are up to it...remove the shift bracket from the other side at the same time and remanufacture it too. Attach the new brackets with stainless steel but use anti-seize to facilitate an easy removal at some later date.
The muffler is a piece of cake to repair. I was going to buy a new one but it was easier to just build the new corners and reinforce the bottom with West System and glass mat. After painting it gloss black...it is actually BETTER than new.
Just like any project on a boat....you can replace even more of the exhaust and really make an improvement. I replaced the old carbon steel threaded pipe exhaust with a new galvanized threaded pipe assembly and it cost less than $25 at a plumbing store. Instead of using a 90 just above the muffler, I used a "T" and made a removable, bronze water injection nozzle that is easy to remove and inspect and shows no sign of corrosion after 4-500 hours. The pricey part of this project is the new exhaust flange from Westerbeke / Universal. Wrap the assembly in car racing header wrap (insulation) and you are set for another 17 years of motoring.
Jay
s/v Per Diem
CD-30 #344 (1985)
jankers@pii-cgmp.com
I replaced the carbon steel bracket a couple of years ago with a shiny new stainless one that I had fabricated from 316L Stainless Steel.
It is only connected to the aft end of the transmission with two hex head machine screws that were not difficult to gain access to. If you are up to it...remove the shift bracket from the other side at the same time and remanufacture it too. Attach the new brackets with stainless steel but use anti-seize to facilitate an easy removal at some later date.
The muffler is a piece of cake to repair. I was going to buy a new one but it was easier to just build the new corners and reinforce the bottom with West System and glass mat. After painting it gloss black...it is actually BETTER than new.
Just like any project on a boat....you can replace even more of the exhaust and really make an improvement. I replaced the old carbon steel threaded pipe exhaust with a new galvanized threaded pipe assembly and it cost less than $25 at a plumbing store. Instead of using a 90 just above the muffler, I used a "T" and made a removable, bronze water injection nozzle that is easy to remove and inspect and shows no sign of corrosion after 4-500 hours. The pricey part of this project is the new exhaust flange from Westerbeke / Universal. Wrap the assembly in car racing header wrap (insulation) and you are set for another 17 years of motoring.
Jay
s/v Per Diem
CD-30 #344 (1985)
jankers@pii-cgmp.com
-
Jerry
Re: CD30 Universal M18 (14hp) exhaust
It is very important not to damage the old muffler getting it out since an exact replacement for the Vernay is not available, at least I couldn't find one. The new mufflers are larger and won't fit in the tight space of the CD30. As Jay says, rebuild the old muffler and have a new mounting base constructed. I rebuilt my muffler 4 years ago and it is holding up fine.Joe Sankey wrote: The survey showed "moderately corroded" to describe the support bracket and bottom of the muffler. Photos taken in prep for several chores in this confined space suggest it's much worse. The bracket appears completed shot; the muffler has two corners broken. I am planning to replace any and everything that needs replacing, but prior to going in the belly of the beast I'd like to know who else has had to do this, and any advice you may have to offer.
The muffler is top in/top out; Vernay. The bracket appears to attach to the rear of the transmission or engine (I'll check this out carefully). What I want to avoid is breaking any of this other aging equipment trying to get the nuts/bolts off, and to learn any tricks of the trade. Any suggestions from those who have been there/done that will be appreciated.
Joe
S/V Slow Dance
CD 30 #311