Engine Bed Replacement

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Cddude
Posts: 3
Joined: Mar 28th, '25, 15:16

Engine Bed Replacement

Post by Cddude »

I am a new member and have recently purchased a 1981 CD33 that is going to require a lot of work before I can confidently take her out on the water without the possibility of springing a leak. Namely, the seacocks are frozen with the backing plates near rotten, the shaft packing, motor mounts, etc, looks in bad shape and the Universal engine bed pipes below the inverted channel frame is flaking rust to the extent that there is probably not much cross section thickness remaining in the piping cross support. So, I definitely have some challenges ahead to make the above repairs.
My question though of this post is if there is anything or considerations that I should look out for when removing or installing a refabricated engine bed? I have researched previous posts which have helped but I was wondering if there are any other pointers from someone knowledgeable in this area, particularly when it comes to glassing the bed replacement back into place. Also, is it correct that both of the piping sections are straight versus slightly bowed? It is difficult to tell at this time due to limited visibility without pulling out the engine, etc. Currently, I am looking at fabricating from carbon steel and hot dip galvanizing with perhaps a heavy gauge schedule piping (sch 80, for instance) for greater cross section thickness.
Again, thanks for any additional information on the above.
Skipd
Posts: 80
Joined: Oct 4th, '06, 11:25
Location: “Lykke” CD 30B #359

Re: Engine Bed Replacement

Post by Skipd »

Sounds like a good project. It would be helpful to attach a few photos of the engine bed and engine components in question. Which model Universal?
From past experience I would recommend trying to keep the original bed as intact as possible, build in, on and around it. This will make future alignment much easier. Does the 33 have a bronze shaft log?

Thanks
Cddude
Posts: 3
Joined: Mar 28th, '25, 15:16

Re: Engine Bed Replacement

Post by Cddude »

Thank you for replying back. I replied to your response last night, but I do not see my response shown so I guess the goblins got it! I am somewhat apprehensive about this phase of the project, but it is one step at a time, as I keep telling myself.
The boat is currently being arranged for transport to a closer shipyard that allows working on your own boat so once I can get this done and also pull the engine, I will download some pictures of the bedding, etc. The engine is a Universal, a M25XP, I believe. The engine itself has a weathered/corroded appearance but I believe it to have low hours. It starts easily, runs smooth, and having several diesel tractors and trucks, I believe it is in decent shape. My main concern is due to the marine environment, etc, and being able to work on it without twisting the boltheads off. I have put a wrench on a few of them in an attempt to loosen and they don't want to bulge so it is a bit of concern, especially if any mechanical issues comes up while on the water
Upon removal of the motor to expose the bedding, my plan is to record measurements both vertically and horizontally and cutting each end of the pipe cross pieces so I can remove the bedding as a whole unit, if possible. Since removing the engine will offer more elbow room, I look to replace/rework (fingers crossed)/rebed the seacocks and cutless bearing/packing too. Visually, the rudder packing and steering bracket/cables/quadrant inside the bilge looking aft, look in reasonable shape.
I am not sure of the bronze shaft log. I am wondering what I may be up against since I am replacing the engine bedding and cutless bearing and then having to align the propeller coupler to the transmission on the back of the engine while virtually standing on your head. Guess I will soon be finding out!
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