Any thoughts or experience out there would be appreicated. Is Hiller still around? any good retro-fits? wish to stay with alcohol but would consider propane conversion. thanks
Brian
captain sloop "Vita Brevis"
CD 33 hull#105
seattle, wa
bp@seanet.com
2069231543
bp@seanet.com
Hiller range replacement for cd33(3 burner w/oven-alcohol)
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Skip
Re: Hiller range replacement for cd33(3 burner w/oven-alcoho
Brian
Try Seaward Products at City of Industry, California. Their phone number is 562 699-7997. Last year they provided me with new packings for my Hiller Range. It was for an 84 CD 33, and they still have some selected parts.
Skip
Medeiros@bnl.gov
Try Seaward Products at City of Industry, California. Their phone number is 562 699-7997. Last year they provided me with new packings for my Hiller Range. It was for an 84 CD 33, and they still have some selected parts.
Skip
brian wrote: Any thoughts or experience out there would be appreicated. Is Hiller still around? any good retro-fits? wish to stay with alcohol but would consider propane conversion. thanks
Brian
captain sloop "Vita Brevis"
CD 33 hull#105
seattle, wa
bp@seanet.com
2069231543
Medeiros@bnl.gov
-
Steve Alarcon
Re: Hiller range replacement for cd33(3 burner w/oven-alcoho
Brian,
Stop by if you wish to inspect a propane installation. We have a Force 10, 2 burner with oven/broiler and a Xintex sensor that
works great.
We are on the "M" dock, number 51.
Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle (previously Portland, Oregon)
alarcon@internetmci.com
Stop by if you wish to inspect a propane installation. We have a Force 10, 2 burner with oven/broiler and a Xintex sensor that
works great.
We are on the "M" dock, number 51.
Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle (previously Portland, Oregon)
alarcon@internetmci.com
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Dave Stump
Re: Hiller range replacement for cd33(3 burner w/oven-alcoho
Brian,
I just purchased a '84 CD-30 with a Hillerange that sounds like yours. I spoke to Seaward products this morning about rebuilding it. Some good info:
Contact at Seaward Products, City of of Industry, Calif.:
Chris 562-699-7997
Model & Serial #s are under top of range.
To Rebuild burners:
1. Remove the burners and get them sandblasted with fine grit. (They'll look like new!)
2. Change the packing, generator rod, and generator spring. All available from Seaward:
A. packing $ .65
B. generator rod $2.50
C. generator spring $2.75
total $5.90 (NOTHING is this cheap in boating!)
3. You will also need to change the wicking, this is also available from Seaward, but is known as "Tiki Torch" wicking and you can get it from Home Depot CHEAP, for a roll!
4. sometimes it is difficult to remove the generator rod and spring(goop!), be patient, you can use heat, but be careful as some parts are soldered.
I'm going to be rebuilding mine over the next couple of weeks, I'll let you know what I learn. Oh, best to take the stove out of the boat, you don't want to try this with your head down with the harbor swell rocking the boat(unless you like that GREEN feeling!).
P.S. If you talk to Chris, tell him I sent you!
I just purchased a '84 CD-30 with a Hillerange that sounds like yours. I spoke to Seaward products this morning about rebuilding it. Some good info:
Contact at Seaward Products, City of of Industry, Calif.:
Chris 562-699-7997
Model & Serial #s are under top of range.
To Rebuild burners:
1. Remove the burners and get them sandblasted with fine grit. (They'll look like new!)
2. Change the packing, generator rod, and generator spring. All available from Seaward:
A. packing $ .65
B. generator rod $2.50
C. generator spring $2.75
total $5.90 (NOTHING is this cheap in boating!)
3. You will also need to change the wicking, this is also available from Seaward, but is known as "Tiki Torch" wicking and you can get it from Home Depot CHEAP, for a roll!
4. sometimes it is difficult to remove the generator rod and spring(goop!), be patient, you can use heat, but be careful as some parts are soldered.
I'm going to be rebuilding mine over the next couple of weeks, I'll let you know what I learn. Oh, best to take the stove out of the boat, you don't want to try this with your head down with the harbor swell rocking the boat(unless you like that GREEN feeling!).
P.S. If you talk to Chris, tell him I sent you!
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Jon Larson
Re: Hiller range replacement for cd33(3 burner w/oven-alcoho
Steve, where did you mount the propane tanks??
Jon Larson
Cape Dory 30 PERI
San Francisco Bay
jon9@ix.netcom.com
Jon Larson
Cape Dory 30 PERI
San Francisco Bay
Steve Alarcon wrote: Brian,
Stop by if you wish to inspect a propane installation. We have a Force 10, 2 burner with oven/broiler and a Xintex sensor that
works great.
We are on the "M" dock, number 51.
Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle (previously Portland, Oregon)
jon9@ix.netcom.com
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Steve Alarcon
Re: Hiller range replacement for cd33(3 burner w/oven-alcoho
Jon,
A box and seat/lid, with vent/drain over the side through the transome, was professionally installed by the previous owner. It is located in the cockpit, aft of the wheel, and also serves as a seat for the helmsman. There is space on either side for access to the
instrument/ignition panel (stbd.) and manual bilge pump (port). The box holds a 2.5 lb propane bottle, which seems to last a full season. My wife enjoys cooking and baking while aboard, so it gets used quite a bit. The box makes the cockpit a little tight, but seems to be the least obnoxious location, as far as I can tell.
Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle
alarcon@internetmci.com
A box and seat/lid, with vent/drain over the side through the transome, was professionally installed by the previous owner. It is located in the cockpit, aft of the wheel, and also serves as a seat for the helmsman. There is space on either side for access to the
instrument/ignition panel (stbd.) and manual bilge pump (port). The box holds a 2.5 lb propane bottle, which seems to last a full season. My wife enjoys cooking and baking while aboard, so it gets used quite a bit. The box makes the cockpit a little tight, but seems to be the least obnoxious location, as far as I can tell.
Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle
alarcon@internetmci.com
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Jon Larson
Re: Hiller range replacement for cd33(3 burner w/oven-alcoho
Thanks, Steve. you know, the 1980 and earlier Cape Dory 30's had a seat across the rear of the cockpits, sounds like your previous owner used that space...and wisely!
Thank you!!
Jon
Cape Dory 30 PERI
San Francisco Bay
jon9@ix.netcom.com
Thank you!!
Jon
Cape Dory 30 PERI
San Francisco Bay
Steve Alarcon wrote: Jon,
A box and seat/lid, with vent/drain over the side through the transome, was professionally installed by the previous owner. It is located in the cockpit, aft of the wheel, and also serves as a seat for the helmsman. There is space on either side for access to the
instrument/ignition panel (stbd.) and manual bilge pump (port). The box holds a 2.5 lb propane bottle, which seems to last a full season. My wife enjoys cooking and baking while aboard, so it gets used quite a bit. The box makes the cockpit a little tight, but seems to be the least obnoxious location, as far as I can tell.
Steve Alarcon
CD30 Temerity
Seattle
jon9@ix.netcom.com
-
Dave Stump
Re: Hiller range replacement for cd33(3 burner w/oven-alcoho
Brian,
More info on the rebuild, I took all three burners out this weekend. It's a little more involved than I first thought. Definately take the stove out of the boat, too much work to do in place. The toughest part is taking the burners apart. The two bolts holding the burners are stainless steel in aluminium, through brass burner heads(throw that into a salt water environment!). It takes a 5/8 inch wrench to remove the generator tube and spring, but once the bolt is removed I just tapped the manifold on the vise anvil and the tube and spring popped right out. I sandblasted the burner heads and aluminium pans this morning and they came out like new! Make sure you chase all threads after sandblasting and get out all the grit. Do not blast the front face of the throttle nozzel, if you make that little hole bigger, you're asking for trouble. When you take the stove apart, it's good to have a photographic memory, lot of screws and parts. It's not impossible to do, but it does take patient. You'll see where the Tiki torch wicking goes when you take the burner apart, it's in the little tray directly under the burner. You'll need six inches of wicking for each burner, and definately replace it. All of the supply hose on mine looked to be in good condition, I'm not going to replace it. You will have to cut the hose to remove the stove as CD did not use removable hose clamps, replace with 1/2 inch SS hose clamps. I let you know what developes.
More info on the rebuild, I took all three burners out this weekend. It's a little more involved than I first thought. Definately take the stove out of the boat, too much work to do in place. The toughest part is taking the burners apart. The two bolts holding the burners are stainless steel in aluminium, through brass burner heads(throw that into a salt water environment!). It takes a 5/8 inch wrench to remove the generator tube and spring, but once the bolt is removed I just tapped the manifold on the vise anvil and the tube and spring popped right out. I sandblasted the burner heads and aluminium pans this morning and they came out like new! Make sure you chase all threads after sandblasting and get out all the grit. Do not blast the front face of the throttle nozzel, if you make that little hole bigger, you're asking for trouble. When you take the stove apart, it's good to have a photographic memory, lot of screws and parts. It's not impossible to do, but it does take patient. You'll see where the Tiki torch wicking goes when you take the burner apart, it's in the little tray directly under the burner. You'll need six inches of wicking for each burner, and definately replace it. All of the supply hose on mine looked to be in good condition, I'm not going to replace it. You will have to cut the hose to remove the stove as CD did not use removable hose clamps, replace with 1/2 inch SS hose clamps. I let you know what developes.
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Dave Stump
Re: Hiller range replacement for cd33(3 burner w/oven-alcoho
Brian,
I finished the rebuild of my Hillerange last night. It is important to leak check the entire system. I pressurized the tank with no alcohol in it and used SNOOP (a leak check solution, dish soap would work just as well)to check it. Found leaks at the knob shaft seals, and at the nut that holds the generator tube & spring. Tightened it all up, lit it off, and then cooked a baked potatoe in it. It worked great. When you prime the oven or burners, the SNOOP bottle makes an ideal primer. It has a small piece of extendable tubing in the bottle, just pull out the tube, aim it at the wick, give a 5 second squeeze and light it. Let the prime burn out completely, and then light the burner as you would a gas stove. I was so pleased with the way it came out that I ordered new pot grates for the top $11.90 each from Seaward. Alcohol is really a good way to go if you are willing to do a little work. Oh, it is important not to overfill the alcohol tank, never more than a gallon! You need the air space to maintain a constant pressure, but a gallon of alcohol will cook a lot of potatoes! Good Luck!!
I finished the rebuild of my Hillerange last night. It is important to leak check the entire system. I pressurized the tank with no alcohol in it and used SNOOP (a leak check solution, dish soap would work just as well)to check it. Found leaks at the knob shaft seals, and at the nut that holds the generator tube & spring. Tightened it all up, lit it off, and then cooked a baked potatoe in it. It worked great. When you prime the oven or burners, the SNOOP bottle makes an ideal primer. It has a small piece of extendable tubing in the bottle, just pull out the tube, aim it at the wick, give a 5 second squeeze and light it. Let the prime burn out completely, and then light the burner as you would a gas stove. I was so pleased with the way it came out that I ordered new pot grates for the top $11.90 each from Seaward. Alcohol is really a good way to go if you are willing to do a little work. Oh, it is important not to overfill the alcohol tank, never more than a gallon! You need the air space to maintain a constant pressure, but a gallon of alcohol will cook a lot of potatoes! Good Luck!!