I have recently purchased a pair of Cable Tensioner tools (manufacturer withheld) to tune my rigging. The instructions do not indicate at what height along the fore/back stays and side shrouds I should perform the test for rigging tension. In the absence of information, I have stood on my cabin and performed the test about 6 ft. above my deck. Does this sound right? I would think the test results will vary depending upon at what height you perform the test.
Also, after tuning my rigging, my rigging is noticeably tighter. I was obviously sailing with the rigging too loose. Consequently, here in the Northeast, is it common to slightly de-tension the rigging in the offseason when my boat is hauled to avoid "stretch" in the cables and possible overloading the cables and/or connections. I don't see anyone doing this routinely. It would seem detrimental to keep the cables loaded to their working load all fall/winter/spring for no reason.
Rigging Tuning
Moderator: Jim Walsh
- Megunticook
- Posts: 352
- Joined: Sep 2nd, '12, 17:59
- Location: Cape Dory Typhoon Senior #11
Re: Rigging Tuning
It sounds like you're using something other than a Loos Gauge, which is what I use. Those can be placed anywhere on the shroud or stay.
Not sure what rig you have, but with the fractional rig like my Ty Senior has, the forestay and upper shrouds are pretty tight. I'm at 20% of breaking strength on the forestay and 15% on the upper shrouds. From what I understand a loose rig can take a lot of abuse from shock loading. My leeward shrouds don't go floppy since I started tuning the rig properly.
My Cape Dory manual says it's best to unstep the mast, clean/inspect the rigging every fall and store it in a dry place over the winter. I think the idea is you don't want moisture getting in there and freezing/thawing. But I do see plenty of boats here in Maine stored with the spar and rigging installed. Not sure if it's detensioned but that would make sense.
Not sure what rig you have, but with the fractional rig like my Ty Senior has, the forestay and upper shrouds are pretty tight. I'm at 20% of breaking strength on the forestay and 15% on the upper shrouds. From what I understand a loose rig can take a lot of abuse from shock loading. My leeward shrouds don't go floppy since I started tuning the rig properly.
My Cape Dory manual says it's best to unstep the mast, clean/inspect the rigging every fall and store it in a dry place over the winter. I think the idea is you don't want moisture getting in there and freezing/thawing. But I do see plenty of boats here in Maine stored with the spar and rigging installed. Not sure if it's detensioned but that would make sense.
- tartansailor
- Posts: 1527
- Joined: Aug 30th, '05, 13:55
- Location: CD25, Renaissance, Milton, DE
Re: Rigging Tuning
IMHO, A Loos gauge, properly employed, is the only way to go.
Dick
Dick
Viam Inveniam Aut Faciam
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- Posts: 3621
- Joined: Oct 6th, '08, 07:30
- Location: S/V Far Reach: CD 36 #61 www.farreachvoayges.net www.farreachvoyages.com
Re: Rigging Tuning
Concur. It's what I use. I don't detention my rig...unless I am am I stepping the mast or for some specific maintenance issue.tartansailor wrote: ↑Aug 6th, '24, 14:49 IMHO, A Loos gauge, properly employed, is the only way to go.
Dick
Re: Rigging Tuning
All good comments. Yes, both are Loos gauges. I was lucky enough to find someone selling both gauges to test the 5/32 and 3/16 wire cable/rope. They are very easy to use, assuming they are giving me the correct reading. Sorry I forgot to mention this is for my CD25. Tensioning the rigging made a big difference. And now the leeward shrouds are not floppy. Yes, it is not common to unstep masts every year here in the Northeast and/or to detension the shrouds. But I will be able to check the tension every spring. I cover the boat well and make sure the forestay/backstay/shroud connections at the turnbuckles are covered or taped to limit water intrusion. I realize that is not a perfect solution.
Thank you. Comments very much appreciated.
Thank you. Comments very much appreciated.