Projects Lead To More Projects

[hilbert]

This week, I put the boat into the water.
Some of the work that I have done requires additional modifications to accommodate.

• The hawse pipe has moved aft with the addition of an anchor windlass. I'm planning to put in a length of PVC pipe to quide the chain to the bottom of the boat. This will probably require cutting away a bit of the liner and creating some kind of containment.
• The standing rigging has been resized. The bolts, tangs and wire are all larger. I would like to add a compression post to take some of the load off the original deck and bulkhead structure.
• No toilet, but there isn't really a galley so these may cancel each other out.

Anyway, it's a boat so there is always a long to do list and even longer wish list.





Also, I would like to purchase used 5/16" BBB anchor chain. Please let me know if you know a source.

Thanks,
Jonathan

[Jim Walsh]

I have a five gallon bucket with 92’ of 5/16” BBB you can have for free. I have no idea where you are located but the bucket is in Connecticut.
It still has a few years of life in it that’s why I didn’t discard it when I bought new high test chain a few years ago. It’s been stored in my garage ever since.

[hilbert]

Hi Jim,

I sent you a PM.

Thanks,
Jonathan

[keneasley]

Looks like the hull to deck joint was sealed on the front half of the boat.
Interesting way to do it since I would think that is where most of the leaks would have occurred.
And maybe less work than doing the entire seem.
How has that worked out for you?

[hilbert]

Where I glassed the hull/deck joint, I applied three layers of biaxial cloth.
In addition to being watertight, this is stronger than when the deck was held with mish-mash and some screws.

While I used a ~12:1 bevel on the topsides, I completely covered the deck with two layers of biaxial from bow to stern.
This was the easiest way to get a smooth uniform surface right up to the sides of the boat.
It also solved the problem of small cracks and damage that had accumulated over the years and made it easier to finish off repairs to the core. Finally, this additional ~1/8" of glass has stiffened the deck.

I am happy with how it worked out. The deck looks good, feels solid and has great traction after finishing off with Kiwi Grip.

[JD-MDR]

Hi Jonathan
I was just going to ask you about the deck seam. You are the third CD I know that has had the same problem as me. Did you go all the way back. It looks like you left the toe and rub rails off the aft.
I’m trying to schedule yard time at Baja Naval in Ensenada to work on mine. I’m not sure if owners are allowed to work on the boats. I may have to leave the wood rails off like Far Reach. I can’t afford the elaborate bulwarks he has so I will probably lash something on the stanchions like I have now only better.

[hilbert]

I stopped glassing the hull/deck seam about a foot aft of the chainplates.



It got to be too much work under adverse conditions in a boat yard exposed to the elements.
However, I did continue to glass over the deck all the way to the stern, where I had repaired a large area of wet core.
The bilge completely dried out after I finished this work.

It might be affordable to have flat stainless plates welded on to the stanchions.
If you pre-drill some holes in the plates, you could then bolt the bulwarks in place.

[JD-MDR]

I stopped glassing the hull/deck seam about a foot aft of the chainplates.

[img]https://www.cruisersforum.com/attachmen ... 085_v1.jpg[/i

It might be affordable to have flat stainless plates welded on to the stanchions.
If you pre-drill some holes in the plates, you could then bolt the bulwarks in place.

That’s what I have in mind. I’ll see after the glass and paint is done. Also. I want to take out the water fill and pump out deck fittings. I can also mount the nav lights on the pulpit and there is one deck mounter block that I don’t use or I can mount that on the pulpit. Then I will eliminate 5 thru deck fixtures. I think I’ll do something with the stern light too.

[hilbert]

I think that welding ss plates on the stanchions is a good and proven modification.
It's how Fred did it when he prepared his CD28, FeNix, for circumnavigation.
For the longest time, Fred's web site was online detailing how he refurbished his boat and then his voyages around the world.
It has gone dark, which is a loss to the community of a great resource.

I agree that it makes sense to get rid of any unused deck fittings.
I don't know what nav lights you currently have, but the original Cape Dory lights just doesn't cut it.
I replaced all the deck and mast mounted lights with modern LED fixtures.

[hilbert]

John,
I don't remember how Fred handled the bulwark where they run into the chain plates and shrouds.
I made some brackets out of G10 and fiberglass to make room for them.

[JD-MDR]

Wow. You’re really into g-10. I’m gonna modify my stainless bases like these

. I am gonna keep my deck mounted sidelights but mount them up on the pulpit somehow. I hope I can make it look nice. I dont like the plastic stuff they sell and unless I come across some classical vintage style ones these will be fine and I just bought them last year

I wonder what is the advantage of putting a wood pad under the stanchion base

[hilbert]

I assume that the wooden wedges allows one to set the angle of the stanchion relative to the deck.

G10 is very useful. However, it is necessary to hold it together with fiberglass to make it durable.
As you can see in the photo, I modeled my G10 stanchion base on the ones that John Stone made from bronze.
I used 6 layers of biaxial cloth (3 on the inner and 3 on the outer surface) for strength.