Leoma. Icebox conversion

[JD-MDR]

I got an old Norcold refer unit cheap and used it for a while just to find out how worthwhile it is to have refigeration. I love it. I bought isotherms 2050SP conversion kit and was surprised how simple it is to install. Here are some photo showing where the stove and galley sink are and the Norcold taking up so much space. And another showing I cutout under the icebox. I wanted to see how the icebox was insulated and also create a new storage space for tools.

I will not add any more insulation. It looks like the original icebox is insulated ok and incapsulated with fiberglass. I can improve later.
Im removing the stove and installing the compressor under the sink. I had to cut the side panel to access I removed the sink and reinstalled with a new strainer. I want to be sure it’s not possible to leak on the compressor. I also calked all around the countertop. I wonder if I will need to close this seacock. Before when heeled over, water would sometimes go in the sink and splash on the counter causing much damage to the woodwork. Maybe a plug for the sink drain will solve that. The compressor fits nicely not directly under the sink. I ran the tubes to the evaporator plate across the engine compartment down low with all the other wires. I wonder if they should be insulated. Today I’m at the drydock and will install the dual purpose thru hole and seacock. The thru hull circulates water to cool the compressor and also still drains the sink. More soon

[JD-MDR]

Here is the compressor installed. It comes with a nice bracket to install on wall or base. Its easy spring snap to remove

[JD-MDR]

I think I bought this seacock 6 yrs ago. It’s in great shape. Rather than try to unscrew the flange outside. Maybe it’s easier to use the 2-1/2” hole bit. I need that size for the new thru hull. I have to be careful not to cut into the bolt flanges on the inside. I’ll have to fill the bolt holes since the new parts don’t have bolts

[JD-MDR]

The yard guy had the tool to unscrew the thru hull. Instead of filling the bolt holes I let them take over. They tapered and patched with several layers of glass. I had some extra 1/4” g-10 to use as a backing plate inside. I should finish today and test. Manual says you can run the compressor on the drydock but I don’t think it’s recommended and especially not for very long

[JD-MDR]

Finished and tested. I can’t even hear the compressor. It looks like it draws 6 amps. But I don’t know what that will be for a day. It cools really fast. I partitioned off the box thinking I might be able to freeze one side. We will see.i cant figure out how to make those coils look neater. I’m afraid to bend them around too much. I used plastic wire ties to secure them to the side panels

[gonesail]

i have one of those in my boat. it works great but does take some amperage. you can adjust the thermostat and set it low to conserve on power. i like your wrap around coils. there is a way to run it with shore power (instead of battery) but i have not made that conversion yet.

[Jim Walsh]

Nice neat job. When I was running the tubes for the evaporator and the compressor I made sure I had a rabbits foot in my pocket. To be honest I wore a pair of thick insulated work gloves that I use with my snowblower. This allowed me to apply pressure without point loading the tubes and possibly collapsing them. As you did, I just coiled them as much as I dared to keep it as neat as possible.
Adding this unit, reducing the size of my icebox, and adding insulation is one of the best “livability” modifications I have made.

[John Stone]

JD. Very cool. See what I did there. That's a great addition. I'll be interested to learn how it performs. Might happen some day to the Far Reach.

[JD-MDR]

I hope someone who has super insulated their icebox (Jim) can fill me in I partitioned mine in half with 2” foam the side with the plate is staying at 38 degees and the other side at 48. It’s been on the number 2 setting. The compressor kicks on every 8 minutes and stays on about 1.5 minutes. I think it’s fine as is. How well does yours work. I really don’t want to add insulation

[jbenagh]

JD, I did a pretty thorough job of insulating mine, CD30 also. I see the compressor run about 6-8mins/hr and I'm in 60-65 degree water most of the time.
I wrote it up here viewtopic.php?t=37713&start=15
Jeff

[JD-MDR]

Thanks Jeff. Are you the one that drilled holes and injected foam? I was thinking of that I opened up the underneith so I could block foam from falling down. But. I not sure I understand. Your compressor runs 6–8’ per hour. I think mine is running say 2’ every 10 or12’ per hr Maybe that’s not so bad. I’ll wait to hear more before I do any more insulating. Also I’m laying an insulated Matt on top of the cooler side

[John Stone]

So how many amps do you guys think your isotherm fridge is II g in 24 hours?

[JD-MDR]

I dont know how to figure it. I was hoping for some help. Jeff figured 20 amp/hr per day but 12 per hr = a lot more than that. But I have no idea what that means

[jbenagh]

I went and looked at the data I took on our 3 week Maine cruise in '22. I saw 0.7A per hour which is 16.8Ah per day. It was pretty warm that year, the water was often 70F and air temps were often over 80F during the day.
If I did it again, I think I would skip the drilling holes and expanding foam. It was a lot of additional work and made something of a mess when the foam escaped through gaps in the cabinetry. With all the insulation I added inside, I'm not sure it made much difference.
Note I did not insulate the top or the hatch because it seemed to difficult. We laid a blanket or towel on top many days, like 60%.
Jeff

[JD-MDR]