Leoma new motor mounts

[JD-MDR]

Here is what I got: a 1” aluminum plate on top of the stringers and this time “Bushing” mounts They seem much better than the “Vetus”ones. The plate is just epoxied down for now. Monday they will remove the engine and secure it with bolts They confirmed there is metal plate in the stringer He told me aluminum but I think its mild steel like everything else They put a new cutlass bearing. Shaft turns much easier. The motor is still gonna be high on the mount studs I wish they could’ve made it more in the middle
Here is the mount they put in a couple on months ago Didnt work out too well Thise mechanics are not employed there anymore

[JD-MDR]

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Also I’m moving the water muffler under the galley sink it was on top of the gearbox What a pain it was to work on water pump or check oil in gears etc this will be so nice I’m having a FRP fitting made from the mixing elbow to the muffler

[tjr818]

John,
That looks a lot better. New mounts for the motor and new "mounts" for each arm. That is going to take a lot of Guinness. I'll be thinking of you. Best wishes.

[JD-MDR]

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Stringer modifications are done. still tapping the bolt holes.. today the engine will be installed. I'm waiting for a custom FRP
connector from the mixing elbow to the muffler. I hope to go out on a sea trial to find out if my reverse gear has be damaged. I know it got really hot on the way back from Mexico. Although I stopped every 100 mi or so to change the oil and let it cool and realign the shaft I'll be surprised if its not burnt up.. Ideally the yard would take responsibility for the damaged caused by their faulty work but I' wont hold my breath and probably won't even bring it up. I'm anxious to see how much they charge me to correct this work. Oh Well I'm not gonna dwell on it. Since I will be disabled and live aboard for maybe 8 months,I jerry rigged a old refer in that I got on online. I've been discussing upgrading my electrical with Battery monitor and solar controller but I better not spend any more till I get out of the yard and make sure my gearbox are OK. I would've liked the aluminum plates to be one piece but I think They did it in pieces so they could leave two mounts in place while positioning the other two. That made it much easier to get them positioned correctly. You can see the "six-10" epoxy oozing out. I didnt ask why one plate is offset. Probably it was hitting something on the engine. They told me they needed me to be off the boat yesterday. I guess they didnt like me watching them.. I dont think they should blame me after the botched up work they did originally. Well I'm learning alot and am completely confident to do the job next time when I buy a new engine. Hopefully not for a few years.

[JD-MDR]

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The yard just sent me this photo . They are installing the engine now. I'm wondering if the mounts are correct, ie; are the slotted holes in the correct position for maximum adjustment potential???

[JD-MDR]

Those seacocks not looking so good. I cleaned them up with lapping compound. They will have to do till next haulout. Muffler is dryfit with FRP fitting. Launch Tuesday. Hoping to make a trial run across the channel next weekend

[JD-MDR]

Here is the other one and anptjer of the muffler.. It is now 12" below the water inlet of the mixing elbow ..Also
The diagrams I saw recommend it be 13" away from the mixing elbow ..Now I have both of those dimensions .

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[JD-MDR]

Here are two diagrams I notice one has the bottom of the muffler being 1cm or 6" below the water inlet at the mixing elbow. I saw somewhere once that 2" to the top of the muffler minimum. This yard told me 12" from water inlet to top of muffler. Anyway I think I'm good. The other diagram shows 30 cm or 12" distance the muffler should be from the mixing elbow. Now I can service my water pump , fuel filter and the gearboxes without removing the muffler..

I see I'm wrong: the 15cm is to the waterline.. I don't see the spec for the muffler alt. Looks like they have the bottom of it at the waterline. Oh Oh mine might be a little too low. Now I'm finding a lot of different diagrams. I'm confused. I hope someone can inform me.

[wikakaru]

Nigel Calder's book Marine Diesel Engines: Maintenance, Troubleshooting, and Repair has a two different chapters on the exhaust system. My 1987 edition has Chapter 7 - Exhausts and Chapter 14 - Engine Installation - Exhausts that discuss the exhaust setup on a sailboat in detail. His Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Repair Manual has a shorter section in Chapter 8 - Diesel Engines - Problems with Exhaust Systems that is also worth a read. Every boater, in my opinion, should have these two books aboard, and should have read them cover to cover (even the parts on systems you don't own) before anything breaks, then keep them stowed aboard in waterproof bags as a reference to help refresh your memory after things break. Understanding how the systems of your boat work is as essential a skill as knowing how to trim a sail or tie a bowline, and these two books from Nigel Calder are the bible for understanding anything electrical or mechanical.

Here are a couple of tidbits of advice from Nigel:

• The water injection system needs to be angled down and away from the exhaust manifold to reduce the risk of sprayback into the engine's exhaust valves. The injection point should be at least 4 inches (measuring vertically) below the bottom of the exhaust manifold exit. The cooling water for the injection system should be fed by a hose with a vented loop, with the anti-siphon vent located at least 18 inches above the waterline and a hose attached to the air vent portion of the anti-siphon vent run in such a way that any extra spray is removed harmlessly from the engine room.
• The top of the silencer should be at least 12 inches (measuring vertically) below the bottom of the exhaust manifold exit and as close to the centerline as possible.
• The through-hull exhaust line from the silencer should be carried at least 18 inches above the waterline, while also minimizing length to avoid back pressure. The through-hull fitting should have an easily accessed valve to close off when the engine is shut down at sea to avoid waves flooding the engine.

I kind of doubt that some of these measurements are possible to achieve on some of the smaller Cape Dories, such as the exhaust through-hull being 18 inches above the waterline. But those are the recommendations.

There is a pretty good set of diagrams over on https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f5 ... 23538.html that you might want to check out as well, but don't neglect Nigel.

Smooth sailing,

Jim