While fixing the leaks on my Intrepid 9M, noticed a good drip from the forward corner of the main hatch opening. Suspect the (original?) calking has given up and water is running down the channel and teak into the cabin. Not sure how to remove the sliding hatch to inspect/repair the source. I've looked at the nearby CD 30s and 28s at the boat yard, they all appear similar in construction of the hatch openning.
Thought: looks like the teak slide rails may have a wooden insert at the aft-end between the rails that keep the hatch retained. Can this be removed to slide the hatch (aft) out? Would then have to unscrew and remove the forward hatch cover. Not sure if just removing the forward hatch cover will permit the hatch to slide forward and out - there is a fiberglass lip on the leading edge that I suspect prevents this.
My wooden "inserts" are only partially there - one side has two SS screws and a bit of the wood. The other has a bit more wood and the screws. The screws on one side have cracked the teak and I'm worried about creating a bigger problem if I muck about too much. Thinking about backing the screws out and trying a chisel or flat blade (srew driver) to slide the insert out -- if its not epoxyed in place. During reinstallation, I plan to recalk with polysulfide and clean up the teak, best I can.
Can't find suggestions on removal or maintenance of this hatchway so looking for any helpful suggestions. Found the tips on resealing chain plates and ports very useful. Can’t wait to finish so I can start dreaming about teak refinishing on this cabin (ouch!)
Roger
S/V Felicity
Intrepid 9M
Hull # 36
Rhode Island
rward@efortress.com
Leaky Companion Way Hatch
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Duncan Maio
Re: Leaky Companion Way Hatch
Roger:
Those wood "inserts" probably used to be plastic, and need to be removed to get the companionway hatch out. On the 25, 27 and 28 (and likely most others) the hatch is trapped between the teak rails all the way forward. It sounds as if you need to remove the forward (fixed) hatch cover to get at the leak anyway.
You might try one of the epoxy products designed to work on rotted wood, but I would try to get as much oil out of the teak as possible first (with acetone) and be sure to fill the track with something that the epoxy will not stick to - like a waxed piece of plastic or aluminum.
I would not use any type of caulk or adhesive when replacing the inserts, and If they are wood, they should be replaced with UHMW plastic (your boatyard can do this or knows a machine shop that can).
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
mail@mysticmarine.net
Those wood "inserts" probably used to be plastic, and need to be removed to get the companionway hatch out. On the 25, 27 and 28 (and likely most others) the hatch is trapped between the teak rails all the way forward. It sounds as if you need to remove the forward (fixed) hatch cover to get at the leak anyway.
You might try one of the epoxy products designed to work on rotted wood, but I would try to get as much oil out of the teak as possible first (with acetone) and be sure to fill the track with something that the epoxy will not stick to - like a waxed piece of plastic or aluminum.
I would not use any type of caulk or adhesive when replacing the inserts, and If they are wood, they should be replaced with UHMW plastic (your boatyard can do this or knows a machine shop that can).
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
mail@mysticmarine.net
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Roger
Re: Leaky Companion Way Hatch
Duncan,
Thanks - I should have clarified that my plans for the calk are to seal the seam between the fiberglass cabin top and teak slide rail along its length, not the hatch rail inserts.
I'll relook at those inserts again but my recollection is they are wood (cracked). I like your idea to use/replace these as plastic inserts. Can you tell me what "UHMW" stands for? I'm thinking a piece of Delryn might do.
Roger
Thanks - I should have clarified that my plans for the calk are to seal the seam between the fiberglass cabin top and teak slide rail along its length, not the hatch rail inserts.
I'll relook at those inserts again but my recollection is they are wood (cracked). I like your idea to use/replace these as plastic inserts. Can you tell me what "UHMW" stands for? I'm thinking a piece of Delryn might do.
Roger
Duncan Maio wrote: Roger:
Those wood "inserts" probably used to be plastic, and need to be removed to get the companionway hatch out. On the 25, 27 and 28 (and likely most others) the hatch is trapped between the teak rails all the way forward. It sounds as if you need to remove the forward (fixed) hatch cover to get at the leak anyway.
You might try one of the epoxy products designed to work on rotted wood, but I would try to get as much oil out of the teak as possible first (with acetone) and be sure to fill the track with something that the epoxy will not stick to - like a waxed piece of plastic or aluminum.
I would not use any type of caulk or adhesive when replacing the inserts, and If they are wood, they should be replaced with UHMW plastic (your boatyard can do this or knows a machine shop that can).
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
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Duncan Maio
Re: Leaky Companion Way Hatch
Ultra-High Molecular Weight polyethylene. It's hard, its slippery, and it's flexible.Roger wrote: Can you tell me what "UHMW" stands for?
mail@mysticmarine.net
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Jerry Hammernik
Re: Leaky Companion Way Hatch
Roger,
I have the hatch off on my CD28 for refinishing and recaulking. Your best bet is to take it all off and do it right. The area under the sea hood is probably filthy dirty, mine was. If you take it all off you can clean out all the old caulk and refinish the wood and then recaulk to stop the leaks. Caulk does have a life span and when a leak starts you can be sure than the rest of it is soon to fail. It's not technical work, just picky. While it was apart I painted the underside of the sea hood and the hatch with white enamel. It looks better and is easier to keep clean. Just my two cents worth.
Jerry Hammernik
Lion's Paw CD 28 #341
dauntles@execpc.com
I have the hatch off on my CD28 for refinishing and recaulking. Your best bet is to take it all off and do it right. The area under the sea hood is probably filthy dirty, mine was. If you take it all off you can clean out all the old caulk and refinish the wood and then recaulk to stop the leaks. Caulk does have a life span and when a leak starts you can be sure than the rest of it is soon to fail. It's not technical work, just picky. While it was apart I painted the underside of the sea hood and the hatch with white enamel. It looks better and is easier to keep clean. Just my two cents worth.
Jerry Hammernik
Lion's Paw CD 28 #341
rward wrote: While fixing the leaks on my Intrepid 9M, noticed a good drip from the forward corner of the main hatch opening. Suspect the (original?) calking has given up and water is running down the channel and teak into the cabin. Not sure how to remove the sliding hatch to inspect/repair the source. I've looked at the nearby CD 30s and 28s at the boat yard, they all appear similar in construction of the hatch openning.
Thought: looks like the teak slide rails may have a wooden insert at the aft-end between the rails that keep the hatch retained. Can this be removed to slide the hatch (aft) out? Would then have to unscrew and remove the forward hatch cover. Not sure if just removing the forward hatch cover will permit the hatch to slide forward and out - there is a fiberglass lip on the leading edge that I suspect prevents this.
My wooden "inserts" are only partially there - one side has two SS screws and a bit of the wood. The other has a bit more wood and the screws. The screws on one side have cracked the teak and I'm worried about creating a bigger problem if I muck about too much. Thinking about backing the screws out and trying a chisel or flat blade (srew driver) to slide the insert out -- if its not epoxyed in place. During reinstallation, I plan to recalk with polysulfide and clean up the teak, best I can.
Can't find suggestions on removal or maintenance of this hatchway so looking for any helpful suggestions. Found the tips on resealing chain plates and ports very useful. Can’t wait to finish so I can start dreaming about teak refinishing on this cabin (ouch!)
Roger
S/V Felicity
Intrepid 9M
Hull # 36
Rhode Island
dauntles@execpc.com