Center Drop-Board Jalousie Window

[John Stone]

I built a center drop board jalousie window for the Far Reach. I followed the basic design described in the Cost Conscious Cruiser. I used a my Bosch jig saw with a plexiglass blade and some files to smooth the edges. I taped the area I planned to cut to eliminate chipping of the plexiglass.

During my last voyage to the BVI, and especially on the downwind sail home, it became evident to me that such a modification would be very useful. I loved sailing downwind in the trade winds but the rain squalls and aft wind drove the rain right in to the saloon. So, I put in all three drop boards but that cut off the breeze in the cabin and made it hot and stuffy inside.

Another place it will help is anchored in the with bow into the current but the wind and rain aft and blowing in the companionway. Or if you want to leave the boat anchored during the day but worry it might rain so you close it up. With the jalousie insert you can leave the boat and keep it ventilated but not worry about the possibility of rain.

The only thing required is to swap out center teak drop board with the plexiglass jalousie. Only takes a minute. It comes apart and stows flat.

This should be a big help...plus it lets more light inside.

Total cost of material was $11.00 and a trip to Lowe’s.

[Paul D.]

I really like this idea John, especially as it stows flat and let's in lots of light. After making a replacement acrylic cover for my engine panel I could see making one of these. I might only add a screen for the Minnesota state birds.

My only concern would be myself falling into the awning piece and shattering the whole deal, likely on the first passage with it shipped!

[Terry]

Nice work. I like the looks. Thanks for sharing it.

[keneasley]

Hello John,

I found this from a few years ago while searching for a way to get more ventilation into my boat.

I'm thinking of making this for my boat.

Did this work well for you?
What was the thickness of the plexiglass?
What holds the flap open?

Thanks for any info.

Ken

[John Stone]

Hello John,

I found this from a few years ago while searching for a way to get more ventilation into my boat.

I'm thinking of making this for my boat.

Did this work well for you?
What was the thickness of the plexiglass?
What holds the flap open?

Thanks for any info.

Ken

Hi Ken. It works great. Have used it many times. It's 1/4" plexiglass I bought at Lowe's.

Ther are two holes drilled on each side that keep the window from being driven into the boat and allows the degree of window slant to be adjusted.

Here is a link describing the build though not in a lot of detail.
https://farreachvoyages.net/2018/11/24/ ... #more-1294

If you want to build it I recommend you buy a copy of the Pardey's Cost Conscious Cruiser. They provide the details. It was their idea and it's always good to compensate the designer. You could also get a copy at the library if you do t already own it. I have every book they have written and have learned tons from them.

If you want I can take a picture for you next time I'm on the boat.

Happy sailing.

[keneasley]

Thank you, John. I'll try making one for my boat over the next few weeks.
And thanks for the tip regarding the book, I'll buy a copy and see the details.
Ken

[fmueller]

Really cool John. Do you have anything that keeps your drop boards from lifing if you are swamped by following seas ? I’ve been trying to think of something. You’d need to be able to release from inside and out.

[John Stone]

Really cool John. Do you have anything that keeps your drop boards from lifing if you are swamped by following seas ? I’ve been trying to think of something. You’d need to be able to release from inside and out.

Fred, short answer is no, other than locking the companionway hatch to keep the boards in place. Longer answer is I have often thought it would be a smart thing to be able to lock the hatch from the outside and be able to open it from the inside. I have not figured out a way to do it though that would be strong, simple, and elegant. I have read about a couple solutions over the years that use a telegraph like a push-pull cable but it was not very elegant. I'll think on it this winter and maybe I can come up with something or see a solution that appeals to me. It really is an important safety feature.

There are ways to lock the boards in place but they require modding the drop boards—then they will not stack flat and compact.

Down-flooding through the companionway hatch is probably the single greatest vulnerability we have to sinking the boat offshore, other than being run down by a ship.

I do have a strong lock leaver I can secure on the inside. https://farreachvoyages.net/2018/11/18/ ... way-hatch/

[Jim Walsh]

Here’s what I did back in 2014. Took them off after a couple years because I never used them and found them irritating. I was testing the concept on the top board and intended to add them to the remaining two boards but I never got that far.

[wikakaru]

John/Jim,

You could easily mount a barrel bolt along the side of the companionway and drill an accepting hole in the hatchboards. Then the hatchboards would still stow flat, and you would have a secure way to keep the boards from lifting out while still allowing the companionway top to slide open for air. Like this (sorry for the terrible cut and paste):

Side-mount barrel bolt.jpg

You would probably want one on each side.

Smooth sailing,

Jim

[John Stone]

John/Jim,

You could easily mount a barrel bolt along the side of the companionway and drill an accepting hole in the hatchboards. Then the hatchboards would still stow flat, and you would have a secure way to keep the boards from lifting out while still allowing the companionway top to slide open for air. Like this (sorry for the terrible cut and paste):

Side-mount barrel bolt.jpg

You would probably want one on each side.

Smooth sailing,

Jim

Aye. It's is a solution. Doesn't keep the companionway hatch closed though. And of course to lock in the drop board you have to install all of them. That's the trade off to a wedge shaped opening. All the boards have to be in to keep the bottom ones from coming out.

Offshore, as a generally rule, I install one board for each reef in the main. One reef, one board. Two reefs, two boards.

If I were designing a boat and wanted drop boards then the slots need to be vertically plumb so even the bottom board has to come all the way to the top to be removed.

Compromises.

[wikakaru]

Aye. It's is a solution. Doesn't keep the companionway hatch closed though. And of course to lock in the drop board you have to install all of them. That's the trade off to a wedge shaped opening. All the boards have to be in to keep the bottom ones from coming out.

Offshore, as a generally rule, I install one board for each reef in the main. One reef, one board. Two reefs, two boards.

If I were designing a boat and wanted drop boards then the slots need to be vertically plumb so even the bottom board has to come all the way to the top to be removed.

Compromises.

A vertically-sided companionway is a nice feature on an offshore boat. Notice that that is how the companionway is drawn in the Pardey drawing earlier in the thread.

Barrel bolts on the top board are, as you say, only useful if you go for the all-or-nothing approach. For the one-board-for-each-reef approach, you could try a simple tie-down run over the top of the board. If you have a pad eye close to the companionway entrance to clip onto as you leave the companionway (which you should on an offshore boat) use that as one end of the tie-down and a convenient spot (maybe a rung on the companionway ladder) as the other. Kind of kludgy, but simple.

The problem with any method for keeping the companionway slide closed is that it is really difficult to come up with a system that allows it to be opened and closed from both inside and outside the boat. It wouldn't do to lock the off-watch crew down below and then the on-watch crew fall overboard or otherwise require assistance, nor to have the off-watch crew lock the on-watch crew out and then fall asleep. Even single-handing, it would be nice to be able to secure the slide from both sides.

Smooth sailing,

Jim

[wikakaru]

Or if you want to do it really properly and if you have access to a router and drill press, you can recess the barrel bolts inside the companionway. Take a stock manufactured barrel bolt and dis-assemble it. Drill the hatch boards from the side to accept the barrel bolt, and route out two concentric slots on each side, one that goes all the way through, and one that allows the "handle" to be recessed. Replace the single handle with a machine screw from each side. Like this:

Companionway Recessed Barrel Bolt.jpg

The barrel can be accessed from both inside and outside to lock the boards in place, but there is nothing that sticks out beyond the surface of the hatchboard, so you can stack them without scratching.

John, this seems like a project that is right up your alley!

Smooth sailing,

Jim

[John Stone]

Or if you want to do it really properly and if you have access to a router and drill press, you can recess the barrel bolts inside the companionway. Take a stock manufactured barrel bolt and dis-assemble it. Drill the hatch boards from the side to accept the barrel bolt, and route out two concentric slots on each side, one that goes all the way through, and one that allows the "handle" to be recessed. Replace the single handle with a machine screw from each side. Like this:

Companionway Recessed Barrel Bolt.jpg

The barrel can be accessed from both inside and outside to lock the boards in place, but there is nothing that sticks out beyond the surface of the hatchboard, so you can stack them without scratching.

John, this seems like a project that is right up your alley!

Smooth sailing,

Jim

I think it would work. I don’t know how water tight it would be.

Seems like a lot of these issues would be solved by just making the hatch slide lockable from inside and outside. I’ll see if I can find the article I read a while back.

[wikakaru]

I can't imagine that it would be any less water-tight than the gaps between each hatchboard or between the hatchboards and the companionway itself. The problem I see is that the recess for the barrel bolt would probably collect a bit of rain water or spray and might start to rot the wood over time. It would be difficult to varnish in there or otherwise coat the wood for protection. This method is probably better suited to one of the synthetic materials like Plas Teak than real wood.

The benefit of doing it this way instead of separate latches inside and out is that you can't inadvertently lock anyone in or out--the same barrel bolt is accessible from both sides.

Smooth sailing,

Jim