CD28 Hatch Repalcement

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jmaue
Posts: 33
Joined: Mar 15th, '21, 09:55

CD28 Hatch Repalcement

Post by jmaue »

I have a 1978 CD28 (The Courage of James). It's time to replace the forward hatch. Original is a Bomar and seriously considering staying with that. Practical Sailor highly rates this maker and I would like to stay with a cast unit vs extrusion. For those who have made this replacement.....thoughts?
Also, the fixed glass in the solon, has anyone removed this and installed a hatch?? Please share.
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jbenagh
Posts: 854
Joined: Sep 15th, '07, 21:02
Location: CD30 "Christine C"
Salem, MA

Re: CD28 Hatch Repalcement

Post by jbenagh »

I replaced the forward hatch on my CD30 with a Bomar this spring. It worked great this season. The bolt pattern is different but the pattern at the corners is the same. I filled the old ones with Marine Tex and drilled new holes. Sealed with Sika 291. Worked great! No leaks. I can see through the glass and both adjusters are there now. Only downside was price jumped a lot since 2020. Don't faint from sticker shock. Also the tan color is either not available or a special order, it wasn't clear, so I got the black but have become used to it.
Jeff
jmaue
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Joined: Mar 15th, '21, 09:55

Re: CD28 Hatch Repalcement

Post by jmaue »

Jeff,
Which model did you go with and where did you purchase it from?
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S/V Ethan Grey
Posts: 166
Joined: Apr 19th, '19, 06:52
Location: S/V Ethan Grey - CD 30C

Re: CD28 Hatch Repalcement

Post by S/V Ethan Grey »

I replaced the hatch lenses on both of my Bomar hatches. They came out perfectly and don't leak a drop. I could not be happier and the price was really affordable. I also replaced the gasket using material from McMaster Carr. The only issue I have with them now is the arm risers. They are aluminum and one is stuck. They are all corroded, but I'll sand them down and repaint. I think I put a post up on how to do it. Let me look...
David
S/V Ethan Grey
1981 CD 30C, Hull #199
Niceville, FL
CDSOA# 1947
jmaue
Posts: 33
Joined: Mar 15th, '21, 09:55

Re: CD28 Hatch Repalcement

Post by jmaue »

David,

So you removed your hatch and cleaned, then re-bedded with new gasket material. And you then replaced the glass. All the while keeping the original hatch cast and dogs?
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S/V Ethan Grey
Posts: 166
Joined: Apr 19th, '19, 06:52
Location: S/V Ethan Grey - CD 30C

Re: CD28 Hatch Repalcement

Post by S/V Ethan Grey »

Yes.

I replaced the lenses using cast acrylic from Tap Plastics following what hilbert posted: http://capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=36462
To bed the lens to the frame, I used butyl tape: https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/
Once the lens was set, I caulked the edge using: Dow Corning 795 Silicone Building Sealant - Black
I also replaced the gasket material using Hatchmasters.com 9/16″ diameter EPDM UV stabilized marine grade hatch seal
which I glues in place using Pliobond 25

To make it easier, I knocked out the roll pins (they were bent anyway) and took the top hatch home. I left the bottom frame in place, covering the hole with plastic. I replaced the roll pins as well.

They don't leak a drop and look fantastic. An easy weekend project if you have all the pieces.
-david
David
S/V Ethan Grey
1981 CD 30C, Hull #199
Niceville, FL
CDSOA# 1947
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jbenagh
Posts: 854
Joined: Sep 15th, '07, 21:02
Location: CD30 "Christine C"
Salem, MA

Re: CD28 Hatch Repalcement

Post by jbenagh »

David,
My hatch had several problems. Both lifters needed machine work then i needed to buy new parts! Glass was pretty hazy as well. I looked at bringing them to a machine shop and was looking at about $900 total with parts.
So the new hatch looked like a good deal.
Jeff
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John Ring
Posts: 519
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 14:38
Location: CD36 #135 Tiara, MMSI:338141386

Re: CD28 Hatch Repalcement

Post by John Ring »

I think we have to stick with the Bomar hatches, as they seem to be the only hatches that actually fit Cape Dorys.
Never mind the opening's length & width - it's all about the corners. My CD36 came with nice looking Lewmar hatches that at first glance seemed to fit well. It was only when I removed them and saw their big radius (extruded) corners didn't actually cover the square corner openings like the cast Bomar frames did. This of course led to leaks that weren't solved until I put a new set of Bomar hatches back on. As an extra pain in the butt, the screw pattern on the new Bomars do not match the original Bomar screw pattern from 1985, despite being the same size hatch. This required filling the old screw holes and drilling to match the new screw pattern.
John Ring
CD36 Tiara
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Sailing involves the courage to cherish adventure and the wisdom to fear danger. Knowing where one ends, and the other begins, makes all the difference.
RichardM
Posts: 11
Joined: Dec 14th, '05, 13:45
Location: Trilogy

Re: CD28 Hatch Repalcement

Post by RichardM »

I removed the Bomar hatch, removed all old paint, sanded frame and painted with aerosol rustoleum high performance spray paint and primer, replaced lense from TAP plactics, bedded lense with 3M HB tape and Dow 795 structural silicaone sealant. Replaced gasket material from McMaster Carr. Refinished hardware and reinstalled and works fine and looks great three years later. Total cost about $100 and looks like new. Actually an easy project over the winter.
Ab9lz
Posts: 2
Joined: Apr 21st, '21, 06:07
Location: Cape Dory 28

Re: CD28 Hatch Repalcement

Post by Ab9lz »

After much deliberation I decided to go the tap plastics route for my forward hatch, I’ll be doing the swap this weekend, I’ll post pics.

Mark

S/V Spurhund

CD 28
Mark
SV Spurhund
Cape Dory 28
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Cathy Monaghan
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Location: 1986 CD32 Realization #3, Rahway, NJ, Raritan Bay -- CDSOA Member since 2000. Greenline 39 Electra
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Re: CD28 Hatch Repalcement

Post by Cathy Monaghan »

The overhead hatches on the majority of our Cape Dory sailboats are Bomar 100 Series Cast Hatches if you want a direct replacement:

https://pompanettellc.com/current-catal ... ast-hatch/

But they can be rebuilt — gaskets replaced, riser arms replaced, dogs replaced, Lexan replaced, frame repainted — so you probably don’t need a new one. The bedding compound has probably dried up by now, so you may need to remove and rebed too.
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