Moderator: Jim Walsh
I did not suggest converting from "keel stepped" to "deck stepped"... Ifritz3000g wrote:I also wouldn't attempt to convert a keel stepped to a deck stepped mast. THAT makes me uncomfortable
Nice idea! I've done the same thing with a 6:1 meant for stringing up deer, but your winch seems like a great solution. Those Triad trailers are nice with the winch up so high.I step the mast on my CD22 with a simple A-frame made of 2x4s. I run the jib halyard to the apex of the A-frame, then cleat it off and use the trailer's winch to provide the power and control.
Excellent planning and execution Jim.wikakaru wrote:The 2x4s are kept in place in two ways. First, there is a line about half way up the A-frame run through a couple of holes and knotted at a distance such that the bottom of the A-Frame is the exact width of the deck where the upper shroud chainplates are (which is also in line with the mast pivot): Then the bottom legs of the A-frame are kept from sliding aft by tying them with lanyards run through holes in the bottom of the legs to the lifeline stanchion bases, which are very close to where the upper shroud chainplates are: I have never tried to raise the mast in high winds, so I can't answer that part of your question, though on a steady, level trailer the weight of the mast hanging from the apex of the A-frame keeps the mast properly in line in the weather I have launched in. A second person onboard holding the mast to keep it from swaying side to side wouldn't hurt. If you tried to raise the mast in the water where the boat would be rolling it would be a whole different ballgame. People do rig up bridles to keep the mast from swaying, but it's a level of complexity that I've never needed.
If your trailer's winch isn't high enough to give you a fair lead to the A-frame, just run the winch strap over the anchor roller at the bow. It should make a nice fairlead.
Smooth sailing,
Jim
Every review I read about Alberg boats mentions the long overhangs, usually in the first paragraph. Looking at the profile, they sure do look long. I'm not sure how to square this concern with his promotion of the 25D in his books.Disproportionately long stern overhangs such as those found on 30-Square Meters and other lightly built racing sloops, are dangerous for sea work because of the leverage they afford an overtaking wave. Such craft are too easily swept into a vulnerable broaching attitude because their inboard rudders cannot overcome the powerful turning moment generated by the long stern.
While all of Alberg's designs have nice lines and "some" overhang, I think you may be taking that quote too seriously. The "racing" vessels I believe being referred to may, in fact, have lots of overhang; most of the Cape Dory cruisers we sail simply have "graceful" overhang. If you research hull designs from that period of racing vessels vs our cruising vessels, I believe you will see the difference.fritz3000g wrote:Every review I read about Alberg boats mentions the long overhangs, usually in the first paragraph. Looking at the profile, they sure do look long. I'm not sure how to square this concern with his promotion of the 25D in his books.
Apples and oranges. The super long overhangs of the 30 square meter boats and boats like them far exceed the moderate overhangs on our boats. Cape Dories have might have long overhangs compared to the current trend of square sterned and plumb bowed boat. Overhangs provide some reserve buoyancy running downwind in big waves. They extend the waterline when heeled. Moderate overhangs in the bow do the same going upwind plus gives you some room for handling ground tackle.fritz3000g wrote:I've been reading John Vigor's books per Dick's suggestion. My daughter loves the one about Dolphins and Ginger Beer!
In The Seaworthy Offshore Sailboat he says the following:
Every review I read about Alberg boats mentions the long overhangs, usually in the first paragraph. Looking at the profile, they sure do look long. I'm not sure how to square this concern with his promotion of the 25D in his books.Disproportionately long stern overhangs such as those found on 30-Square Meters and other lightly built racing sloops, are dangerous for sea work because of the leverage they afford an overtaking wave. Such craft are too easily swept into a vulnerable broaching attitude because their inboard rudders cannot overcome the powerful turning moment generated by the long stern.
Good info Jim, thanks! Didn't realize that. I agree - I think that takes it off my list.If I'm not mistaken, the Tartan has a keel-stepped mast.
Thanks Fred! I like that way of thinking. It does seem like choosing a boat then finding a way to transport it might not be the correct order to do things in. Might make more sense to look for a truck and call some hauling companies, then do the math, then choose a boat I can haul.Another comment: I personally don't consider my 27 trailerable except by professionals with proper equipment. I've had my boat moved twice now and I would not want to see her on LESS of a tractor and trailer than the company I hired used - and it was not an F350 and a retail grade trailer at its load limit.
But another way to think about the trailer problem ... maybe seasonally, or occasionally: you pay for the expense of transporting your boat to new and interesting environs. Moving boats professionally is not all THAT expensive. Besides - how much does an F350 cost ? $40,000 ?
So for instance - if I could only find a 2-3 week window to cruise in Maine one summer, it would not seem out of the question to me to have my boat trucked from Narragansett, RI to Portland, ME and back . Otherwise, for me, "cruising Maine" would mostly be "getting there, and getting back". The last time I asked Brownell Systems this was about a $1700 proposition. So I am wondering if your "trailerable" requirement could be met in that way: a summer
