i finally fit my 6'2" frame into the port cockpit locker,i had to wait till someone was around just in case i got stuck, with the correct size wrench to tighten the nuts on the stuffing box but the clearance on the sides of the nuts to the fiberglass is 1/2 to 1/4 inch and less...not nearly enough to get the wrench on, let alone move...
whats up with that, any ideas?...on how to get out of the locker
jcth49@aol.com
cd 28 stuffing box cramped
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Don't go into the locker......
Jack,
If you have a straight drive shaft, not a "V" drive, I would lean in over the top of the engine(Yes, it is a tight fit, but if you ease in you can get there). Use a short length of pipe, maybe 1/2" electrical conduit about 18" long. Go over the top of the engine with the pipe and a light sledge hammer, I use a 5 lber, tap the locking nut to unlock it, then tap the adjusting nut enough to tighten it as you wish. Tighten up the lock nut by striking it the other way, and you are done!
For years, I had crawled into the starboard locker on Hanalei, I got tired of doing that and one time asked the yard lead mechanic to adjust it for me. He did just what I described and was finished in about five minutes. It cost me, but I learned. Oh, it is a good idea to light up the area in question with a flood light, makes things easier to see.
Hope this helps....I'll not climb into that foolish locker again...
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
If you have a straight drive shaft, not a "V" drive, I would lean in over the top of the engine(Yes, it is a tight fit, but if you ease in you can get there). Use a short length of pipe, maybe 1/2" electrical conduit about 18" long. Go over the top of the engine with the pipe and a light sledge hammer, I use a 5 lber, tap the locking nut to unlock it, then tap the adjusting nut enough to tighten it as you wish. Tighten up the lock nut by striking it the other way, and you are done!
For years, I had crawled into the starboard locker on Hanalei, I got tired of doing that and one time asked the yard lead mechanic to adjust it for me. He did just what I described and was finished in about five minutes. It cost me, but I learned. Oh, it is a good idea to light up the area in question with a flood light, makes things easier to see.
Hope this helps....I'll not climb into that foolish locker again...
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
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Al Levesque
Re: Don't go into the locker......
If the locker is easy to clear out, open it and remove the access board. That will give light. We also use a folded piece of carpet remnant on top of the engine for comfort, especially if the engine is hot.D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Jack,
If you have a straight drive shaft, not a "V" drive, I would lean in over the top of the engine(Yes, it is a tight fit, but if you ease in you can get there).
Al
albertlevesque@cove.com
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Jack Bego
Re: Don't go into the locker......
Jack BegoD. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Jack,
I am very new at this, just purchased CD 28 #155 but I have room around the stuffing box, however, I just changed the impeller Saturday and there is approximately 2" clearance from the muffler. I used an off set screwdriver but I plan to change to bronze machine screws in the future so I can use a small wrench. I am 6'1", 200lbs and still have a stiff neck from the hour spent in the starboard locker.
CD 28, #155
jebiker@mindspring.com
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Olli Wendelin
Re: Don't go into the locker......
So how about a CD30 with V-drive? How do I stay out of the locker?
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Good question......
Olli,
Although I am familiar with the "V" drive, I haven't ever looked at the stuffing box on one, so in answer to your question, I don't know.
I guess I would squeeze in over the engine and see if I could gain access that way, but I would still try to stay out of the bilge. It is just not a fun trip, but you might have to do it with the "V" drive.
Maybe someone else will enlighten us.......
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei
Although I am familiar with the "V" drive, I haven't ever looked at the stuffing box on one, so in answer to your question, I don't know.
I guess I would squeeze in over the engine and see if I could gain access that way, but I would still try to stay out of the bilge. It is just not a fun trip, but you might have to do it with the "V" drive.
Maybe someone else will enlighten us.......
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei
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Larry DeMers
Re: cd 28 stuffing box cramped
This weekend, my wife Jan and I decided that *THIS* was the weekend that we had to get the old stuffing box off the rudder. Our CD30 has this darn thing located under the cockpit floor, and is unreachable with more than one arm, from the lazarette opening. You have to get inside. Well, Ok..now I am a tad larger than I ought to be, and it is not possible to get my frame into that area without removing the steering turning sheaves, mounted dead-nuts in the center of that opening in the bulkhead accessible from the lazarette.
So Jan gets all togged out in her finest long johns..it's only 36 deg. in the morning. She steps bravely into the empty lazarette, wiggles into a semi prone position, lays down and slides into the boats interior where a boat cushion was set up to let her have a comfortable..ne, a 'glorious' experience amongst the wires, cables, air conduits, bolts, chains, and rubber shaft log of the rudder shaft. She attaches my 14in. locking slip jaw wrench around that knurled nut and gives it a mighty twist..unfortunately, it was in the wrong direction. But that started out a 4 1/2 hour ordeal that is not half over with.
Up shot is that we got looking at the hose, and saw that the only movement was when we torqued the rudder shaft. So, could it be the packing gland is too tight? Yup..released that adjusting nut a few thousand turns (it seems), and picked the old packing out..dried flax, single row of 5/16 in. sq. I believe. Now the shaft log stays in column and does not twist. Outwards appearance is good, and the 5 hose clamps (cripes, the hose clamps practically cover the whole log! There's maybe an inch not covered by the hose clamps..maybe two.
The method used in all this work and more was Jans hands on hte wrench jaw, my one hand pulling if it's stuck..or holding the flashlight so that Jan could see the jaws, then taking turns moving the knurled adjustment nut 1/8 turn at a time etc. sigh.. so we headed to the showers and got the grease off. Now to pack that sucker with flax,followed by synthetic teflon gel and filler and then flax again.
Done right, this will be the only time we have to have it done. However..it's one of those jobs I will hire a Very Small Person to do next time..a kid about 12 would be perfect!
SO that was Saturday...now for Sunday~!...
heh
... Cheers!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
So Jan gets all togged out in her finest long johns..it's only 36 deg. in the morning. She steps bravely into the empty lazarette, wiggles into a semi prone position, lays down and slides into the boats interior where a boat cushion was set up to let her have a comfortable..ne, a 'glorious' experience amongst the wires, cables, air conduits, bolts, chains, and rubber shaft log of the rudder shaft. She attaches my 14in. locking slip jaw wrench around that knurled nut and gives it a mighty twist..unfortunately, it was in the wrong direction. But that started out a 4 1/2 hour ordeal that is not half over with.
Up shot is that we got looking at the hose, and saw that the only movement was when we torqued the rudder shaft. So, could it be the packing gland is too tight? Yup..released that adjusting nut a few thousand turns (it seems), and picked the old packing out..dried flax, single row of 5/16 in. sq. I believe. Now the shaft log stays in column and does not twist. Outwards appearance is good, and the 5 hose clamps (cripes, the hose clamps practically cover the whole log! There's maybe an inch not covered by the hose clamps..maybe two.
The method used in all this work and more was Jans hands on hte wrench jaw, my one hand pulling if it's stuck..or holding the flashlight so that Jan could see the jaws, then taking turns moving the knurled adjustment nut 1/8 turn at a time etc. sigh.. so we headed to the showers and got the grease off. Now to pack that sucker with flax,followed by synthetic teflon gel and filler and then flax again.
Done right, this will be the only time we have to have it done. However..it's one of those jobs I will hire a Very Small Person to do next time..a kid about 12 would be perfect!
SO that was Saturday...now for Sunday~!...
heh
... Cheers!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
jack cothren wrote: i finally fit my 6'2" frame into the port cockpit locker,i had to wait till someone was around just in case i got stuck, with the correct size wrench to tighten the nuts on the stuffing box but the clearance on the sides of the nuts to the fiberglass is 1/2 to 1/4 inch and less...not nearly enough to get the wrench on, let alone move...
whats up with that, any ideas?...on how to get out of the locker
demers@sgi.com
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Larry Demers
Re: Don't go into the locker......
Olli,
As far as I can see, there is no way to get to the stuffing box from outside the locker.{ratz!} The far end of it lies under and just behind the engine pan, and you can just see the screws for the hose if you use a flashlight aimed from the lockers to the area under the flywheel. What a place to put a vital piece of gear! jeesh. The designer should be made to come out and change these hoses for us all!>Yeah, that's it..Robinhood Yachts, got a job fer yea...heh.
I theorize (but have not done) this method. Disconnect the prop shaft coupler from the engine and remove the flange from the shaft. remove the hose clamps for the stuffing box from the engine end. Go under cover (in the belly of the beastie) and release the two or three hose clamps attached to the hose at the outboard end. Back inside, remove the hose (of course it slides off nicely, not sticking at all...right?) and replace. Bet this one takes a weekend alone. Yipes!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
As far as I can see, there is no way to get to the stuffing box from outside the locker.{ratz!} The far end of it lies under and just behind the engine pan, and you can just see the screws for the hose if you use a flashlight aimed from the lockers to the area under the flywheel. What a place to put a vital piece of gear! jeesh. The designer should be made to come out and change these hoses for us all!>Yeah, that's it..Robinhood Yachts, got a job fer yea...heh.
I theorize (but have not done) this method. Disconnect the prop shaft coupler from the engine and remove the flange from the shaft. remove the hose clamps for the stuffing box from the engine end. Go under cover (in the belly of the beastie) and release the two or three hose clamps attached to the hose at the outboard end. Back inside, remove the hose (of course it slides off nicely, not sticking at all...right?) and replace. Bet this one takes a weekend alone. Yipes!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Olli Wendelin wrote: So how about a CD30 with V-drive? How do I stay out of the locker?
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
demers@sgi.com
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Ken Cave
Re: PSS Unit
You folks could invest in a PSS unit! And, if I can get one fitted on a Cape Dory 28, you should be able to have one installed on your boats. (notice that I said "have one installed!") The poor kid that did mine had cramps for a month-and now that I give his name to other Cape Dory owners here in the northwest-he really hates me!! (just kidding).
Have had mine for over a year and a half, and not a problem!~!
Ken Cave
bcave@whidbey.net
Have had mine for over a year and a half, and not a problem!~!
Ken Cave
bcave@whidbey.net
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Larry DeMers
Re: PSS Unit
Personally, I would not have a "Dripless" PSS unit aboard..or any of these higher-tech devices. It would not stop your having to check the stuffing box anyway, since you still need a stuffing box with the PSS units..you are replacing the packing gland only.
PSS requires that the bellows be replaced every 3 years..why?? hmmm..only a year and half left...
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
PSS requires that the bellows be replaced every 3 years..why?? hmmm..only a year and half left...
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Ken Cave wrote: You folks could invest in a PSS unit! And, if I can get one fitted on a Cape Dory 28, you should be able to have one installed on your boats. (notice that I said "have one installed!") The poor kid that did mine had cramps for a month-and now that I give his name to other Cape Dory owners here in the northwest-he really hates me!! (just kidding).
Have had mine for over a year and a half, and not a problem!~!
Ken Cave
demers@sgi.com