Seacock Hoses

Discussions about Cape Dory, Intrepid and Robinhood sailboats and how we use them. Got questions? Have answers? Provide them here.

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dcumings
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Joined: Mar 14th, '21, 05:19

Seacock Hoses

Post by dcumings »

Hi there!
I am a new Typhoon owner and have a question about the seacocks...
it appears some people cross the hoses, is this the best option to keep feet dry? Wouldn’t this allow water overboard to stay in the cockpit until you tack?
Also, I am re-bedding the seacocks... any advice? The brass ball seacocks seem to be in good working order so I have cleaned them up.
Recommendation for mushroom flange - 4200 or Boatlife Lifeseal?

thanks!!!
dani
Paul D.
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Location: CD 33 Femme du Nord, Lake Superior

Re: Seacock Hoses

Post by Paul D. »

ON our old Typhoon I did both these jobs and did not cross hoses when I replaced them. These worked fine but if you have six people aboard for a sunset sail you may get some water in the cockpit. I would use Life Calk for the through hull bedding 4200 would likely work too but I've only experience with 5200 and life calk. Both worked well for me but I've not had to remove the 5200 and I know what that involves.

For replacing the cockpit drains and hoses search this forum. In the 90's I replaced all of the old gate valves and new through hulls and it worked really well.

Good luck with this project. Knowing that your through hulls are properly sorted out really makes for confident sailing experiences.
Paul
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dcumings
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Joined: Mar 14th, '21, 05:19

Re: Seacock Hoses

Post by dcumings »

thank you for your reply
I noticed there are 2 different prducts... Boatlife Lifeseal and Boatlife Calk.... you recommend the calk?
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Frenchy
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Joined: Mar 14th, '15, 15:08
Location: CD 33 "Grace"

Re: Seacock Hoses

Post by Frenchy »

Another good product is Sikaflex 291. I use it for pretty much everything except for acrylic and polycarbonate (lexan).
Life Seal is advertised as good for lexan as well as thru hulls. It has silicone and is said to remain flexible. I have no
experience with it. The Sikaflex, besides being a good sealant, also has excellent adhesive properties, according to
Practical Sailor. - Jean
Jean - 1983 CD 33 "Grace" moored in
Padanaram Harbor
Massachusetts
Typhoon4Fun
Posts: 87
Joined: Apr 29th, '18, 09:34
Location: TySr - Adeline

Re: Seacock Hoses

Post by Typhoon4Fun »

On my old Typhoon the hose were not crossed, which worked fine 99% of the time. We had little plugs for the cockpit scuppers for when the cockpit was loaded or sailing in choppy seas. When not in use the plugs lived in little teak 'cupholders' installed in the cockpit, just above the scuppers. Just have to make sure you remove the plugs when you leave the boat!

If I may piggyback on this thread (as I will soon be performing a similar job), where do people stand on the order of operations for seacock & thru-hull installation. It seems to me that it would be much easier to install the seacock and then thread the thru-hull into it. Seems some people advocate for pushing the thru-hull into the hull, preventing it from rotating somehow, and then screwing the seacock or seacock flange onto the thru-hull from inside the boat. While I get the premise, it seems like the latter would be much trickier to do neatly. With enough Sika 291 or whatever on the mushroom it seems like the former method would work fine. Thoughts?
Keith
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Re: Seacock Hoses

Post by Keith »

5200 is for below the waterline and 4000/4200 are for above the waterline. I believe it says that right on the tube.

Keith
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Jerry Hammernik
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Location: Lion's Paw CD 28 #341
Lake Michigan

Re: Seacock Hoses

Post by Jerry Hammernik »

5200 is for below the waterline and 4000/4200 are for above the waterline. I believe it says that right on the tube.
4200 is rated for below the waterline. It has half the adhesion of 5200 so you can get it apart with some effort v 5200 which requires a debond product.
Jerry Hammernik

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John Stone
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Re: Seacock Hoses

Post by John Stone »

Keith wrote:5200 is for below the waterline and 4000/4200 are for above the waterline. I believe it says that right on the tube.

Keith

I never use 5200 on the FR. It’s the devil’s glue. It’s permanent. When you try to remove those through hulls, and you will one day more any other hardware it can be a terrible experience. I use 3M 4200 or mostly 4000UV above and below the waterline. Polyurethane like 5200 but less tenacious. Sitka flex 291 is excellent too. It has a long pot life so I use it when I need time to assemble something. I have used lots of Boat caulk. It’s a polysulfide. Keep it away from plastic. I use it on wood when I want a teak or monogamy color. A little less tenacious than 4200. Don’t use Boatlife. It’s go silicone in it. cause you all kinds of problems. It doesn’t last. It’s not a good caulk. It’s not a good glue. It’s hard to remove. It’s only use is for plastic portlight and we do t have any on our boats.
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