Fayaway forestay chainplate replacement

[SVFayaway]

I'm in the process of replacing my forestay chainplate and rebuilding my chain locker. As is usual with these projects, it's spiraled from just replacing the chainplate and rebedding the deck hardware into a full recore of the deck above the locker, the replacement of the bowsprit, addition of deck hardware for a solent stay, all new backing plates for the hardware and a repaint of the locker with BilgeKote.

I was disheartened to find the deck core in poor condition when I pulled the pulpit off so I've cut the deck open from below and cleaned out the rotten and wet core material. I'll put new core in and properly close out all the hardware fasteners. I'll also seal the joint between the new core and the existing since the damage extends beyond the current scope of this repair. There is much more deck work to be done but I'm working in sections to keep it manageable. First was the cockpit, now the foredeck, and then the cabin top which is rather urgent since the deck has gone soft next to the companionway. Then I'll address the main deck as needed. There is some delamination on the main deck but no soft spots (yet) so I'm hoping repairs will be limited.

The new chainplate will replicate the old with G10 in place of the steel. I'm extending the reinforcement aft by nearly a foot to accommodate a Wichard double padeye. This padeye will be the attachment point for a new dyneema solent stay. I'm also replacing the badly worn and cracked bowsprit. I'm currently trying to find room in the budget for a Spartan anchor roller since none of the stainless options appeal to me.

Of course I neglected to take a "before" photo, but here's where things stand currently:

[ghockaday]

Great looking job so far, that had to be a back breaker. The hardest part for me other than being packed in a tiny place, with my arms over my head, would be getting all of the epoxy out of my beard when you get to that part. Dennis

[Frenchy]

Yeah, I have to say you've done an incredible job. I can only imagine laying in there with both hands up in the
air chipping away at the balsa core - and that's after the onerous job of removing the old steel reinforcement.
Good luck with the rest of the project. - Jean

[SVFayaway]

Thanks guys. Jean, getting the steel out was actually pretty easy. I don't think I spent more than three hours on it. It had corroded enough that it had separated from the fiberglass but not so much that it wouldn't come out in one piece. I also had plenty of experience from replacing the other chainplates last winter. Dennis, I am not looking forward to the fiberglassing stage of the project-it's nasty work anyways and this will be doubly so. Tyvek and splash goggles will be a must.

Nothing new to show but I've sanded and tapered the edge of the repair so I can install the new core and fiberglass next weekend. The sanding was actually worse than getting the core out, in part because the sander was bulky with a vacuum hose attached. But now I'm onto the construction phase. I need to go to Annapolis next weekend to get the teak for the new bowsprit, probably the most intimidating part of the project for me. I'm hoping to wrap this up in two weeks so I can focus on getting the boat back in the water by March. I'm planning on taking the boat down the coast for a two or three week cruise to North Carolina, largely to gain experience for my planned Bermuda trip in 2022. That trip was supposed to happen this year but for many reasons the boat just wasn't going to be ready by then.

[SVFayaway]

This past week I got the core installed and today I fiberglassed over the repairs. I wouldn't say it was fun but careful planning meant it wasn't too frustrating. I laid plastic out over the v berth (I took the cushions out some weeks ago) and then laid a piece of cardboard on top of that. I wetted the fiberglass out on the cardboard, rolled it up, folded the cardboard in half so I could lie on the dry back side of it and carefully unrolled the glass inside the locker. A tyvek suit and gloves kept the epoxy off me while I manipulated the wet sheets of 1708 into the locker and stuck them up to the underside of the deck. They wanted to slide off until I got the whole thing pressed into place so I had to move quickly. The first one wasn't too bad but the second one required some repositioning, during which it pulled part of the first layer off. I think making some line up marks before wetting out the material would have helped.

Tomorrow I'll start making the G10 components for the new chainplate knee.

[Jim Walsh]

Nice work! I couldn’t imagine doing it myself.....I would have needed an anti-gravity device and they’re as scarce as hens teeth.....

[Steve Laume]

Great job so far. It would have been much easier if you had rolled the boat over, to work on it. A vacuum system comes to mind but that wouldn't be easy either. You seem to have things under control. What will the layup consist of? I was expecting core material to be first in, Steve.

[Jim Walsh]

Great job so far. It would have been much easier if you had rolled the boat over, to work on it. A vacuum system comes to mind but that wouldn't be easy either. You seem to have things under control. What will the layup consist of? I was expecting core material to be first in, Steve.

[SVFayaway]

Steve, I did install the core first, sorry I sort of glossed over that step, probably because it didn't go well... The fiberglass under the deck was fairly thin so I used two layers of 1708 over 3/8" balsa. The old balsa was so badly compressed from the forces of the hardware pulling up on the deck that I couldn't jam the new core under the edges of the repair. I'm going to back and fill those voids with epoxy before continuing on.

Somewhere on Youtube there's a video series about the restoration of a Cal 40 and at one point they did actually roll the boat over (sans keel) for fairing and painting. Amazing thing to see but probably much too costly for my meager budget!

[Steve Laume]

I have spent some time in Raven's chain locker doing much smaller jobs. That is not an easy space to work in. It seems like you are doing a great job, despite the difficulties of working overhead in a difficult space. Once you go beyond the non skid areas of the deck, it means painting everything. I feel that the original gel coat is a much better option and I understand why you would want to do this from below. Especially in this case were you are working on the chain plate anyway. I would be curious to know if you would still do it from below when you are finished with the project. It is nice that you are able to get to the area and repair it without disturbing the original finish above.

You deserve a good beer along with your Advil, Steve.

[gonesail]

Great looking job so far, that had to be a back breaker. The hardest part for me other than being packed in a tiny place, with my arms over my head, would be getting all of the epoxy out of my beard when you get to that part.

not sure if this is on topic .. but I recently had to work on my water pump under the sink. this had to be done using one arm only. could not get the other one in. at one point I thought I was not going to be able to do it without removing the sink. but in the end I got the accumulator installed. barely