Propeller Shop Recommendation

[keneasley]

I'm working on the propeller and drive shaft.
The boat gets some vibration when on engine power at RPMs above 2,200 and I want to replace the dripless shaft seal.

So I'm removing the shaft along with the prop attached and hope to find a good prop shop to true the prop and make sure the shaft is straight and to dress the (new flange) and the shaft for a slip fit.

I'll replace the dripless seal when I reassemble and may even replace the cutlass bearing too since I'll have the shaft out.

The drive shaft and prop assembly on my boat is relatively new (2006) but I hit a snag yesterday in that I could not remove the driveshaft from the flange (the flange that attaches to the drive shaft and then to the transmission. See picture.

IMG_4440.JPG

So... I'm buying a special too from https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/flange-pullers
and will give that a try.

If I can't get the flange off with the tool then I may try using a grinder and cut off disc to cut the flange in two and then pry it off. I'm open to suggestions on how to remove the flange.

But mostly - I'm asking if anyone can recommend a prop shop for the work I describe. Preferably a shop in Connecticut area.

[Frenchy]

I figure you've already tried putting a 7/8" O.D. socket against the shaft between the flanges and tighening up on
bolts linking the two flanges together. You could try that again with some gentle heat on the flange and see if that
helps. Some good penetrant might help too. If all else fails, you could cut the shaft with an abrasive cut off wheel.
A new shaft will probably be in the area of $500. Depending on how close the rudder is to the prop, you may have
to remove the prop from the shaft to get both out. Good luck. I can sympathize. - Jean

[Jim Walsh]

Heating the flange usually works. A plumbers torch is very handy if you have access to one but a propane torch will work, but take longer. Be very careful with an open flame, best to have an extinguisher at arms length.

[bottomscraper]

You might have someone closer but this is who repitched our prop:

http://accutechmarine.com/

[Steve Laume]

There was a shop in Essex, Ct that I went to about ten years ago. They were honest enough to tell me I didn't need their services, Steve.

[keneasley]

Frenchy,
Thank you. I was worried that I would put too much stress on the transmission flange.
Will post an update in a week or two after I try again.
Ken

[keneasley]

Jim,
Thank you. I will try some type of heat and see if that helps.
Ken

[mgphl52]

Don't forget to apply never seize when you reassemble shaft & flange!

[keneasley]

I was at the boat last week and I liberally sprayed PB Blaster into the holes for the set bolts for the flange.
The bolts I removed are shown still in place in this picture.

Shaft_Seal_coupling.JPG

Today I used the tool mentioned in the top of this post and without too much trouble (maybe an hour of turning the nuts and bolts 1/2 to 1 turn each one at a time) I was able to remove the flange.
I used the tool because I didn't want to risk damaging the flange on the transmission if I tried to use that flange to back off the drive shaft flange.

Shaft_seal_8.JPG

That was a relief. Maybe it went well because it was only 15 years old.

So now what remains of the disassembly is to pull the prop and then slide the shaft out from the back.

Propeller_Number_2.JPG

It looks like the nuts that hold the prop on are 1 1/4".

I scraped away the gunk around the nuts and removed the cotter pin and sprayed some PB Blaster on the shaft and came back after an hour to try to turn the outer nut.

I tried an adjustable wrench on the outer one but it seems very tight.
Also it was very tough to hold the prop to offset the force of trying to turn the wrench on the nut.
After I get the nuts loose I'll be looking to buy or borrow a prop puller and also may try a torch to heat up the prop.



Can anyone offer some advice on how to loosen the nuts ?

[Frenchy]

Maybe you could lay a board between the ground and the prop or the hull and the prop to keep if from spinning.
A judicious bit of heat can't hurt either. Congratulations, by the way, on getting the prop flange off.
It might be a good idea also to check the engine mounts in trying to eliminate vibration. Sometimes they look
fine but actually are broken. You can check with a crow bar at each of the four mounts, lifting the engine slightly.
Often it's the starboard rear that's broken. Many engines turn counterclockwise (viewed from the rear) and the
transmission reverses that to clockwise in forward gear. When a rope gets entangled in the prop, the starboard
side of the engine tries to lift and breaks the mount. Anyway, good luck - Jean

[Bill Goldsmith]

Can anyone offer some advice on how to loosen the nuts ?

Assuming you have removed the cotter pin and let the PB Blaster soak in, and have figured out a strong way to render the prop stationary (I like the idea of a strong wooden board), then I would try for more leverage. A standard adjustable wrench doesn't have a long enough handle. A 24" pipe placed over the wrench handle is probably enough. Just be careful to apply the pressure gradually. You don't want to round over the nut or damage anything, including your knuckles. I would consider using a box end wrench because it places the pressure on all six faces of the nut evenly, unlike an adjustable or an open end wrench which puts all the force on two faces, increasing the likelihood of damaging the nut.

[Jim Evans]

I agree with Bill. When I pulled the prop on my CD33 a few years ago, I used a pair of these 1 1/4” wrenches, which worked well. They are about 17” long: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q0 ... 3240e894a8

When I get home this weekend, I’ll send you a picture of the 3 jawed prop puller I use to pull the prop off the shaft.

[JD-MDR]

I was tought to always turn a tiny bit clockwise ( tighten) direction. It doesnt have to actually move just break the chemical bond It seems to be true for me especially with aluminum bolts like outboards and engine blocks

[keneasley]

Thank you to everyone that replied.

I ended up using a 2 x 4 between the prop blade and the ground.
That worked and I was able to loosen the nuts.

I then tried a home-made prop puller. One of the bolts snapped after they were tightened.

failed_prop_puller.JPG

I heated the prop with a regular bernz-o-matic torch for quiet a while.
I put in another bolt and snapped that one too.

So now I may buy one of these automotive hydraulic pullers and try that.

hydraulic_puller.JPG

If it doesn't work on the prop I can always use it when working on the car.

I will buy those 1 1/4 " wrenches for the re-install.
I will check the engine mounts next week to see of they are the weak link.

Any thoughts about the hydraulic puller ?

[Jim Walsh]

I’d try larger bolts on your prop puller first. Never tried a hydraulic unit but a couple grade 8 bolts would be a much better choice for your homemade puller.