Typhoon Senior - jib lead car system?

[Typhoon4Fun]

Our TySr came with a working jib and genoa. After a bit of experimentation we ended up mostly keeping the working jib on the furler this summer. (When the wind was perfect for the genoa it was great fun but it felt like too often I'd have to roll it up and suffer from poor shape). Anyway, using the working jib means sheeting it inside the shrouds to the fixed fairlead located just about in line with the chainplate. I don't have a photo from my boat but here's one I found on Google: https://images.craigslist.org/00000_eaG ... 00x900.jpg

On my old Typhoon, the working jib sheeted to a simple jib lead car on the top of the coach roof, so I have always found it a little puzzling that the TySr only has the fixed fairlead. Has anyone out there retrofitted their TySr with a jib lead car system for the working jib? I have noticed some compression in the top skin around the starboard fairlead so I intend to remove it this winter to assess the core anyway. This could be the time for the upgrade. But how and where to place the track? Centered on the location of the existing fairlead? Favoring forward or aft of the existing fairlead? On top of the coach roof like the Typhoon? Or don't bother? There were times when I felt like an adjustment of the sheeting angle could get all three telltales streaming in unison, but I'm not doing any racing.

In my Googling I did come up with this listing for a TySr with a jib lead car system: https://www.boatvana.com/files/06-2020/ ... _large.jpg
But I've also never seen that rig on a TySr.

The other piece to this: both sails are pretty tired so I was thinking I might spring for a new working jib. But I am open to hearing arguments about going with a genoa and staying outside the shrouds.

A couple moving parts and lots to ponder so any input would be appreciated!

[wikakaru]

I've been thinking about making the same modification to my CD22, which has the single fixed bullseye like your Ty Sr. The tricky part on the CD22, and I assume it's the same on your Ty Sr, is that the sheet lead is between the forward lower shroud and the upper shroud, and that limits the range of acceptable sheet leads. It seems like the track would have to be pretty short to accommodate that range, or you would have to keep re-running the sheet from one side of the shrouds to another.

I haven't gotten this far yet, but I was thinking about rigging up a sort of temporary "track" out of some low-stretch Spectra strung between the bow pulpit and one of the after stanchion bases, with a bullseye attached to the Spectra so I could move the lead around to see where the track could be located and still provide clearance between the shrouds. It would have to be done in light winds because I don't think you could tighten the Spectra enough to keep it down near deck level with anything but very small sheet loads.

It probably won't be this year for me, because fall haulout day is rapidly approaching, but if you have a chance to rig up something like the Spectra test track I'd love to hear about your results.

Smooth sailing,

--Jim

[sloopjohnl]

just some info and a thought: I had a fellow who was a one design racer in boats to 30' who went for a short sail with me while travelling thru the USA. On my Ty weekender he suggested moving the jib track off the coach roof or installing another track on the sidedeck between the coachroof and the chain plates/toerail to create better sail shape for the 100% working jib.
If you are thinking of buying a new jib maybe your sailmaker could help you with what and where you would best add a track for good sail shape/trim.

[Dick Villamil]

In addition to sloopjohnl's comments the sailmaker may design a better genoa with better shape and slightly smaller so that it can be shaped better for sailing upwind. I did this for my weekender with VT Sailing Partners and the difference was amazing! Much better shape, better upwind performance and I can now sheet the sail back further on the stock genny track rather than in the formost position giving me some leeway in leach adjustment control. Sailshape makes a huge difference in the way a boat sails.

[Typhoon4Fun]

Thanks for the comments!

I haven't gotten this far yet, but I was thinking about rigging up a sort of temporary "track" out of some low-stretch Spectra strung between the bow pulpit and one of the after stanchion bases, with a bullseye attached to the Spectra so I could move the lead around to see where the track could be located and still provide clearance between the shrouds.

That's a really clever idea. I am not sure if I will able to swing it before I haul but will keep this in mind.

I am waiting to hear back from the sailmaker and plan to discuss both the jib track location and sail type (genoa vs working). He's obviously got a lot of experience and knows the boat so I'm looking forward to seeing what he says. Will keep you posted!

[Typhoon4Fun]

So the sailmaker did recommend that I install a track on the deck. We haven't gotten into too much detail because I only had a quick conversation when I dropped off the old sail, but I will try to get more input on how exactly to configure the track and will report back.

In preparation, I pulled the old fairleads today to assess the core. A little discolored but not wet. I am inclined to just fill with epoxy when I install the track.

I don't know enough about how the boat was constructed to assume that the liner is uniformly flush with the underside of the deck. In other words - can I safely through-bolt my new tracks with a backing plate on the interior liner? That's how the existing lead was installed, but I don't know if it the deck was constructed to accommodate it in just that one spot. Any ideas?

[robwm]

I don't know enough about how the boat was constructed to assume that the liner is uniformly flush with the underside of the deck. In other words - can I safely through-bolt my new tracks with a backing plate on the interior liner? That's how the existing lead was installed, but I don't know if it the deck was constructed to accommodate it in just that one spot. Any ideas?

After tapping every inch of the interior liner on my CD22, I've concluded that there is usually an air gap between the liner and the underside of the deck. As a result, I would not rely on being able to get a firm seating for backing plates installed on the cabin side of the liner. I think that that will end up creating high compression points on the liner that could possibly punch through it.

I've been planning to install some hardware on my deck and I'm thinking that the best way to install related backing plates might be to simple create opening in the liner at the appropriate locations and then create some cover plates out of teak plywood to go over the openings. Not settled on this approach yet.

Robert

[Typhoon4Fun]

After tapping every inch of the interior liner on my CD22, I've concluded that there is usually an air gap between the liner and the underside of the deck. As a result, I would not rely on being able to get a firm seating for backing plates installed on the cabin side of the liner. I think that that will end up creating high compression points on the liner that could possibly punch through it.
Robert

Shoot! It's never easy. You're right - cutting the liner and installing some sort of cover is probably best.