Should I caulk or bed teak pieces on my typhoon?

[PortTack]

Hello,

Currently in the middle or sanding and building up coats of varnish on all the teak on my typhoon, and was curious as to what people suggest when reattaching. I noticed some old dried up lifecaulk beneath the teak brow on the top of the cabin, but no evidence of any bedding material anywhere else. Would you suggest caulking or using butyl on the backsides of teak that's going on in non-structural and basically cosmetic places, like the rails that go along the port and starboard seats in the cockpit, or the rails framing the entrance to the cabin? Thanks!

[mgphl52]

I really don't know about the rails you mentioned, but if i ever remove my coamings, I will definitely use rubber butyl tape when reinstalling them.

[sloopjohnl]

TotalBoat Seal by TotalBoat (like Life Caulk) on all the screw holes only.

[Typhoon4Fun]

I try to use butyl tape whenever possible, but I don't think it would work very well for relatively thin strips of teak with relatively large spans between fasteners. You will likely compress the butyl around each fastener but end up with high spots in between. I could see butyl working for the coaming but maybe not for the trim along the companionway. Unless someone has had a different experience or any tips?

[John Stone]

I would not use butyl in large quantities if you will want to take it apart later. It’s not permanent. But when put under a lot of compression it can be quite sticky and you can do some damage to remove it. Don’t get me wrong it is great stuff and I use it for things I don’t plan to take off again for a long time.

I use dolphite for parts that need to be taken apart. I use 3M 4000UV polysulfide for some things if they require white bedding compound. I use BoatLife teak or mahogany colored polysulfide if I am bedding wood to fiberglass or the other wood that I don’t want to take apart often. Brown bedding looks way better again wood then white.

Also, butyl really does not work if you are “screwing” into the base. It requires compression with a nut and bolt. You tighten the nut and not the bolt otherwise you will twist the butyl out of the hole. Make sure you chamfer the hole too. You can also use a combo of polysulfide or polyurethane on wide stretches between fasteners and then a donut if butyl around bolt that gets compressed into the chamfered hole.

[kerrydeare]

... when reattaching. I noticed some old dried up lifecaulk beneath the teak brow on the top of the cabin, but no evidence of any bedding material anywhere else. Would you suggest caulking or using butyl on the backsides of teak that's going on in non-structural and basically cosmetic places, like the rails that go along the port and starboard seats in the cockpit, or the rails framing the entrance to the cabin? ...

The coamings and similar attachments are intended to keep water from entering the cockpit where you live (and sit). If you consider the fit of these pieces, there's little chance that they will, on their own, be watertight when merely attached to the GRP deck with fasteners. The bedding is therefore designed to prevent water from passing under the wood and into the cockpit. This also means that the bedding compound is not designed or formulated to secure the wood to the GRP deck. It's mostly to prevent water intrusion, and adhesive compounds aren't usually required.

Regarding the handrails and similar parts, it's likely that without some sort of bedding or similar, water will eventually penetrate the fasteners, get below, and cause problems.

[PortTack]

Great, I appreciate all your feedback. I think what I'll do is use a little butyl at each fastener point, but not along the entire boards, since the biggest concern would be water penetrating the deck at the screw holes.

[mgphl52]

There's a huge wealth of information at Marine How To.