Wiring question
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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- Posts: 387
- Joined: Apr 9th, '14, 18:39
- Location: 1984 Cape Dory 22
Wiring question
On my 22, I’ve been starting to rewire some lights. In the attached panel below ( OEM) 2 battery switch panel, what is the purpose of the copper plate on left side of picture that connects across the circuit switches? I assumed it was a common ground. When I switch on a light, and put a dc meter across the pos and negative( The copper rod) I get no voltage. In fact all of the ground wires connect to that blue round thing on the right...The black wire with the yellow connector is where I had to connect the neg wire for my new deck light.
What’s weird is the black wire on the plate connects to the pilot light...The blue thing sits behind the voltage gauge..see other pix of panel front
What’s weird is the black wire on the plate connects to the pilot light...The blue thing sits behind the voltage gauge..see other pix of panel front
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Rick
1984 CD22
Excuse auto-correct typos courtesy of iOS...or simply lazy typing
Rick
1984 CD22
Excuse auto-correct typos courtesy of iOS...or simply lazy typing
- tjr818
- Posts: 1851
- Joined: Oct 13th, '07, 13:42
- Location: Previously owned 1980 CD 27 Slainte, Hull #185. NO.1257949
Re: Wiring question
That looks like a positive buss to me. Put your meter on that and check the voltage to ground.
Tim
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
Re: Wiring question
umm... sorry, but from that photo I can't make heads or tails of what you're asking
-michael & Toni CDSOA #789
s/v KAYLA CD28 #318
2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic
Niceville FL
+30° 30' 24.60", -86° 26' 32.10"
"Just because it worked, doesn't mean it works." -me
No shirt + No shorts = No problem!
s/v KAYLA CD28 #318
2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic
Niceville FL
+30° 30' 24.60", -86° 26' 32.10"
"Just because it worked, doesn't mean it works." -me
No shirt + No shorts = No problem!
Re: Wiring question
In simple dc systems red is hot and switched and black or yellow are typically ground. (In simple 120 volt ac systems, black is hot, white is neutral, and green is ground.)
You can partially see (I think but can't be sure from the picture) there appears to be a heavy gauge wire (under the accordian covering) going from the end of that bar to the center post of your battery switch. That would suggest the bar is hot. As Tim says, you need to measure for voltage between that bar and ground of your battery. If your meter leads are too short you can extend with a length of small gauge wire.
If you are doing electrical work a decent meter is a must.
You can partially see (I think but can't be sure from the picture) there appears to be a heavy gauge wire (under the accordian covering) going from the end of that bar to the center post of your battery switch. That would suggest the bar is hot. As Tim says, you need to measure for voltage between that bar and ground of your battery. If your meter leads are too short you can extend with a length of small gauge wire.
If you are doing electrical work a decent meter is a must.
Fred Mueller
Jerezana
CD 27 Narragansett Bay
Jerezana
CD 27 Narragansett Bay
Re: Wiring question
looks like your deck light may not be connected to the negative bus bar .. wherever that is.
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- Posts: 387
- Joined: Apr 9th, '14, 18:39
- Location: 1984 Cape Dory 22
Re: Wiring question
Thanks for identifying the bar as the hot connection. If that’s the case, what’s the other side of the switch opposite the hot bar? I had my meter connecting between that side of the breaker and the hot bar and didn’t get any reading.
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Rick
1984 CD22
Excuse auto-correct typos courtesy of iOS...or simply lazy typing
Rick
1984 CD22
Excuse auto-correct typos courtesy of iOS...or simply lazy typing
Re: Wiring question
I think without more pictures we’d be guessing.
One sure fire way to suss it out is by measuring continuity not voltage on the ground side as I suggested with a wire back to the ground terminal of your battery.
If the panel has two bars, one is likely ground and the other the hot supply. If it only has one bar that is likely hot and the panel is really just a multi switch/breaker and there is likely a common ground point elsewhere.
If you don’t have a meter get one. Think of it as cheep insurance
One sure fire way to suss it out is by measuring continuity not voltage on the ground side as I suggested with a wire back to the ground terminal of your battery.
If the panel has two bars, one is likely ground and the other the hot supply. If it only has one bar that is likely hot and the panel is really just a multi switch/breaker and there is likely a common ground point elsewhere.
If you don’t have a meter get one. Think of it as cheep insurance
Fred Mueller
Jerezana
CD 27 Narragansett Bay
Jerezana
CD 27 Narragansett Bay
- Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
Re: Wiring question
No offense intended here but from the questions you are asking, my best advise would be that you buy a book on marine electrical systems to go along with your multi meter. A simple one with all the information you would need is, The 12 Volt Bible For Boats.
You are not going to get a voltage reading by going from the positive bar and to the other side of the breaker. There is no ground bar in the original panel. All of the grounds on Raven went to the neg terminal on the battery meter when I got her. Do not count on all the wires being the right color for positive and negative. Many wires are color coded for their intended use and that is a good thing. Our boats didn't use yellow for ground in the original wiring, that came later to avoid confusion with AC hot.
That metal strap that holds the battery meter is your "ground bar". You will find that the big black wire goes to an engine bolt, Steve.
You are not going to get a voltage reading by going from the positive bar and to the other side of the breaker. There is no ground bar in the original panel. All of the grounds on Raven went to the neg terminal on the battery meter when I got her. Do not count on all the wires being the right color for positive and negative. Many wires are color coded for their intended use and that is a good thing. Our boats didn't use yellow for ground in the original wiring, that came later to avoid confusion with AC hot.
That metal strap that holds the battery meter is your "ground bar". You will find that the big black wire goes to an engine bolt, Steve.
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- Posts: 387
- Joined: Apr 9th, '14, 18:39
- Location: 1984 Cape Dory 22
Re: Wiring question
Thanks for input. And yes fair comment on getting a marine electrical book!
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Rick
1984 CD22
Excuse auto-correct typos courtesy of iOS...or simply lazy typing
Rick
1984 CD22
Excuse auto-correct typos courtesy of iOS...or simply lazy typing
- wikakaru
- Posts: 839
- Joined: Jan 13th, '18, 16:19
- Location: 1980 Typhoon #1697 "Dory"; 1981 CD22 #41 "Arietta"
Re: Wiring question
Here's a free book on 12 volt troubleshooting from Spa Creek Instruments: http://www.melody-in-blues.org/download ... ndbook.pdf
Smooth sailing,
Jim
Smooth sailing,
Jim
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- Posts: 387
- Joined: Apr 9th, '14, 18:39
- Location: 1984 Cape Dory 22
Re: Wiring question
Thanks much Jim.
wikakaru wrote:Here's a free book on 12 volt troubleshooting from Spa Creek Instruments: http://www.melody-in-blues.org/download ... ndbook.pdf
Smooth sailing,
Jim
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Rick
1984 CD22
Excuse auto-correct typos courtesy of iOS...or simply lazy typing
Rick
1984 CD22
Excuse auto-correct typos courtesy of iOS...or simply lazy typing