Main Halyard type and diameter recommendations

[Keith]

Hi All,

I need to replace the main halyard on my CD30C. Looking for recommendation on type and diameter.

Thanks,

Keith

[wikakaru]

The dimensions for all standing and running rigging are in the manual: http://www.capedory.org/manuals/CD25-1978-Manual.pdf Page 95. For the CD-30C, the manual says the main halyard should be 74' of 7/16" pre-stretched Dacron (like New England Ropes Sta-Set or Samson XLS).

Smooth sailing,

Jim

[Keith]

Thanks for the quick response Jim.

Yes, I checked out the manual as well but it is 40 years old and the technology of rope has changed significantly since then. I was looking to see what other CD owners have replaced with the new technology lines. For example instead or 7/16 can you go down to 3/8 and have the same or better strength.

Still looking for input.

Keith

[Jim Walsh]

Thanks for the quick response Jim.

Yes, I checked out the manual as well but it is 40 years old and the technology of rope has changed significantly since then. I was looking to see what other CD owners have replaced with the new technology lines. For example instead or 7/16 can you go down to 3/8 and have the same or better strength.

Still looking for input.

Keith

You can certainly go to a smaller diameter line, if it has a dyneema core it may be stronger than your present halyard was when new...and stretches far less. I have found that 7/16 is as small a diameter as I will go for my main and headsail halyards, main sheet and headsail sheets. Old hands find it far easier to grasp the larger diameter lines.

[Steve Laume]

I went to 3/8" Sta Set for all of my running rigging. It is stronger than the pre stretched Dacron that was original. I had Sta Set X as a main halyard for a while but I found it to be too stiff for my liking and stretch wasn't an issue with the regular Sta Set.

My hands are older than Jim's but I have worked with them for all those years and I have no problem gripping the 3/8" lines. I can haul away on the jib sheets or a halyard with no problem. Once things get tight, I am using a winch and tailing it is not very taxing.

Is there a huge advantage to going down a size? No. There are some slight advantages. Less windage, weight and cost are the main ones. They are just a bit less bulky.

I have heard cautions about the mast head shives not liking the thinner line. Raven does not have grooved shives that would have been used for wire halyards. I am not sure if any of the Cape Dories ever did. The shives that are there handle the slightly smaller line, perfectly well so it is not an issue.

So it comes down to personal preference. You can certainly go down to 3/8" as far as strength and compatability with the boat are concerned. It is just a matter of how it feels to you, Steve.

[Keith]

Very good point Jim. I have a 1/4 line on my traveler track lines and if I try to adjust while under tension it can be a pain. Fortunately with proper planning and execution the adjustments can be made while not under load.

Keith

[John Stone]

I use 10mm (a fat 3/8”) Sampson on the Far Reach, a CD36. Very similar to sta-set. Rational is the same as Steve L. I get a little unwanted stretch but I just re-tension them.

[Keith]

Hi All,

Thanks for the input. I went with the 10mm (3/8") Sta Set. Installed it yesterday by butting the new and old halyards together using a couple of stitches of mono filament fishing line and a few wraps of electrical tape. Then hauled down the old while up/down the new. Then cut the eye splice on the old halyard to remove the key shackle and attached it to the new halyard with a bunting hitch. The 10mm is fine on my aging hands and didn't see any stretch issues on a 4 hour sail.

Thanks again for the input.

Keith

[Keith]

PS I don't know the age of the old halyard but the area where it was starting to fail was right at the end of the eye splice. Not where the key shackle rubs on the eye splice but at the end of the tucked in portion of the splice where it goes down to the original line thickness.

[Jim Walsh]

PS I don't know the age of the old halyard but the area where it was starting to fail was right at the end of the eye splice. Not where the key shackle rubs on the eye splice but at the end of the tucked in portion of the splice where it goes down to the original line thickness.

That is normally where your halyard rests on the sheave so it takes the most wear and tear. With your use of a buntline hitch you have the option of end for ending your halyard so wear will not be concentrated in one spot. If you made your halyard a little long you can also cut a few feet off and refasten your shackle with a new buntline hitch with the same effect.