Help on cutlass bearing replacement CD30

[Sasjzl]

My diver just told me that my cutlass bearing is failed or failing. Any help at all on replacement of the bearing would be most appreciated.
Thanks very much,
Jim Lee

CD30c

[Jim Walsh]

My diver just told me that my cutlass bearing is failed or failing. Any help at all on replacement of the bearing would be most appreciated.
Thanks very much,
Jim Lee

CD30c

https://marinehowto.com/replacing-a-cut ... e-bearing/

This will get you started in the right direction.

[Maine_Buzzard]

Are you intending to do the work?

If not, write a cheque to the boatyard for $1500 and enjoy a cold beer.

If you want to do this, some tools are required.

Be emotionally ready to also replace the prop shaft if it’s worn. Have the yard pull the prop, unless you have the tools to do that.

Haul the boat out. The vee drive at least gets the coupler at an easier spot. Unbolt the 3 large bolts holding the coupler to the vee drive output. Slide the shaft back just a bit. Loosen the two setscrews.

You will need to pull the coupler off in a tight space. Buy a 3/4” floor flange and a 1” close nipple for it from the plumbing store. Drill two 3/8” holes so you have a triangular pattern to match the holes in the coupler. Cut 3 pieces of 3/8” allthread rod to 8” and have some nuts and washers available.

Arrange the flange so the pipe section buts against the end of the prop shaft and the threaded rods pass through the holes in the coupler and matching holes in the flange. It will be a hot mess, it helps to preload nuts and washers until it snugs up. Now you tighten up the nuts and the flange will pull the coupler off the shaft.

When the coupler falls off, curse, pick up all the pieces, and slide the shaft out the stern. Check the shaft for wear and apply $500 as needed.

For the cutless, some have screws imbedded in sealant, some are wedged, some just kinda are stuck.

If you are a brutal surgeon, cut the bronze sleeve in two places just shy of all the way through with a Sawzall, finish with a hacksaw blade, and twist it out. Feel for screws and dig out the sealant above them, back them out, and install the new cutless.

If you don’t want to risk it, have the boatyard do this. It’s not a cheap repair if you cut the stern tube.

Now is a very good time to replace the packing. Compass marine has great instructions for that.

Reverse disassemble the parts and look into realigning the motor and prop shaft.

NEVER pound or force the coupler on the vee drive output. The thrust bearings are not designed to be hit against.

[John Stone]

Are you intending to do the work?

If not, write a cheque to the boatyard for $1500 and enjoy a cold beer.

If you want to do this, some tools are required.

Be emotionally ready to also replace the prop shaft if it’s worn. Have the yard pull the prop, unless you have the tools to do that.

Haul the boat out. The vee drive at least gets the coupler at an easier spot. Unbolt the 3 large bolts holding the coupler to the vee drive output. Slide the shaft back just a bit. Loosen the two setscrews.

You will need to pull the coupler off in a tight space. Buy a 3/4” floor flange and a 1” close nipple for it from the plumbing store. Drill two 3/8” holes so you have a triangular pattern to match the holes in the coupler. Cut 3 pieces of 3/8” allthread rod to 8” and have some nuts and washers available.

Arrange the flange so the pipe section buts against the end of the prop shaft and the threaded rods pass through the holes in the coupler and matching holes in the flange. It will be a hot mess, it helps to preload nuts and washers until it snugs up. Now you tighten up the nuts and the flange will pull the coupler off the shaft.

When the coupler falls off, curse, pick up all the pieces, and slide the shaft out the stern. Check the shaft for wear and apply $500 as needed.

For the cutless, some have screws imbedded in sealant, some are wedged, some just kinda are stuck.

If you are a brutal surgeon, cut the bronze sleeve in two places just shy of all the way through with a Sawzall, finish with a hacksaw blade, and twist it out. Feel for screws and dig out the sealant above them, back them out, and install the new cutless.

If you don’t want to risk it, have the boatyard do this. It’s not a cheap repair if you cut the stern tube.

Now is a very good time to replace the packing. Compass marine has great instructions for that.

Reverse disassemble the parts and look into realigning the motor and prop shaft.

NEVER pound or force the coupler on the vee drive output. The thrust bearings are not designed to be hit against.

After reading this I decided I don’t want an inboard engine after all....

[mgphl52]

After reading this I decided I don’t want an inboard engine after all....

John, It shouldn't be all that bad... a cutlass usually lasts for over 20 years... just sayin'

[Maine_Buzzard]

Hi John,

I’ve seen your superb workmanship here. I think if you decided to cast and machine your own engine, it would hum. Likely to the tune of “to the shores of Tripoli...”

[John Stone]

Hi John,

I’ve seen your superb workmanship here. I think if you decided to cast and machine your own engine, it would hum. Likely to the tune of “to the shores of Tripoli...”

Thanks. That’s funny. Well, I’m gonna reserve my opinion about this whole project until we are back in the water and see how life afloat is effected. I honestly expect it to be a positive benefit but I’m not certain of it. Probably depends on how well I execute it.

[RC James]

Don Casey's Good Old Boat used a socket and the longer store-bought coupling bolts to pressure out the shaft from the coupling.
It's no fun being upside down w/your arms above your head while resting on your shoulder, but it's doable.

Not sure if big bucks is money well-spent, IF you have the time and inclination.
But I've been known to be a cheapskate.

[Larry DeMers]

I have done this job. Not too bad a job for the owner to try. One thing that I found out was that I did not have to remove the prop from the prop shaft, but simply rotate the prop shaft while pulling it backwards through the boat, rotating the prop around the rudder, which is turned full on to port. The prop and shaft will pull right out (I assume that the engine coupler fitting has been removed first)

Then the bearing can be approached for removal. I made one cut on the inside of the bearing, then used slip joint pliers to bend the bearing inwards, and crush the shell enough to free it from the boat. Gripping the edge of the bearing and pulling backwards worked for me, after finding and removing two set screws that go in from the sides of the bearing.
Reinstall the new bearing, install the two set screws, then cover with epoxy putty and shape into a streamlined shape. Paint with anti-fouling, and you be done.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD39c Sailing Lake Superior (hopefully a few more years)