“Leoma” update 11/19

[JD-MDR]

Hi Steve, That's kinda of how I was thinking. Hopefully I can trade one of the 25#er CQR's. I wouldn't mind having a Rocna type I seen the videos showing how great they are. Not sure what you mean by the bridle setup. I also have 100' chain and nylon splice to it. Most of the anchorages around here are about 30' sometimes deeper if it's crowded. I don't feel good with only the chain unless it's very calm and under 30'.

[John Stone]

I am also sticking with my wheel, Steve.

LOL. Hilarious!

[John Stone]

Hi Steve, That's kinda of how I was thinking. Hopefully I can trade one of the 25#er CQR's. I wouldn't mind having a Rocna type I seen the videos showing how great they are. Not sure what you mean by the bridle setup. I also have 100' chain and nylon splice to it. Most of the anchorages around here are about 30' sometimes deeper if it's crowded. I don't feel good with only the chain unless it's very calm and under 30'.

Steve L is correct that the CQR is a proven anchor. The Pardey’s used a 35lb CQR on 19,000 lb Taleisin the entire 30’ish years they sailed her which included about 150,000 sea miles. All engineless I might add.

[JD-MDR]

Here is the photo of my old Distribution Panel and the new one. The cabinet door and frame I got from the consignment store turned out to be too small. I had to have the panel in now, so I could install the breakers for the auto pilot and plotter. I'll have to get a better plan for the cabinet and redo it. I did however pull out all the old and useless wires. Now I have mostly new wires all routed nicely and with heat shrink eyelets. I left enough slack so I can work on it later. I also cut a piece off the power feed bar to isolate one position for a 30 amp shore power breaker. I'm not sure if that was a good idea. It's the one on the bottom that's not labeled. The panel is secure and sturdy. I'll think about how to rebuild it for a few months. I want to make that whole corner a perfect cabinet like it was original from the factory. When I got the boat, the cockpit combings were disconnected from the cabin. I drove some longer screws thru that wooden backer piece. This is probably the worst area on the boat as far as carpentry goes. There is a little water damage under the forward portlights and under the companionway. These are not a priority for me.

[JD-MDR]

Hi Steve, That's kinda of how I was thinking. Hopefully I can trade one of the 25#er CQR's. I wouldn't mind having a Rocna type I seen the videos showing how great they are. Not sure what you mean by the bridle setup. I also have 100' chain and nylon splice to it. Most of the anchorages around here are about 30' sometimes deeper if it's crowded. I don't feel good with only the chain unless it's very calm and under 30'.

Steve L is correct that the CQR is a proven anchor. The Pardey’s used a 35lb CQR on 19,000 lb Taleisin the entire 30’ish years they sailed her which included about 150,000 sea miles. All engineless I might add.

I found a 45 lb. CQR on C= list for $150. It looks like it includes a swivel and some 3/8 " chain. I wonder if its too big for my boat. I know the chain won't work with my windlass. I sold one of my 25lb er's for $100

[Steve Laume]

Be patient, the right anchor will come to you. I feel the 35# CQR with 5/16" chain, is the right size for a CD-30. Anchor size is kind of like Goldielocks' porridge.

Craig's list is great but I have recently found that Facebook Marketplace is more popular. You could also look for a local consignment shop. Anyone trying to fit out a boat on a budget should find a consignment shop. They have things you didn't even know you needed, Steve.

[JD-MDR]

Thanks Steve, The consignment shops have a couple 35's but not good condition and they want to much. I'll wait and maybe work will pick up and I will afford a claw type

[John Stone]

I agree with Steve that a #35 is about right. If you go with a CQR make sure it’s a genuine CQR and not a knock-off. I have purchased a couple key items from consignment shops. I never paid the asking price.

[jbenagh]

I agree with them as well. I've used same setup Steve described for almost 10 years with my CD30.

Jeff

[JD-MDR]

I am also sticking with my wheel, Steve.

Do you have worm drive steering? Mine has a little slop in it. I was told its not bad though. I might send the whole shaft assembly into Edson for a tune up. They recommend sending the whole unit in because it all has to work together and I shouldn't just replace the one part. The guy (I forgot his name) in charge of worm gear dept. said he was with quality control at Cape Dory.

[Steve Laume]

My wheel is pedestal mounted with a cable drive. The worm drive seems more reliable but less convenient to me. I usually only hand steer when doing some sort of maneuvers where I like the fact that I can stand up while holding on and still steer the boat. While your worm drive may be a little sloppy it is not apt to fail the way a wire drive system could. That rebuild by Edson is not going to be cheap, Steve.

[Walter Hobbs]

Hi Steve,

I need to rewire the rats nest on my CD 27. Could you post a few photos of the interior details of your distribution panel wiring?

thanks

[moctrams]

This the wiring job for Gabbiano.

[Frenchy]

That's impressive, Moctrams. Did you do it yourself? It sure looks professional.

[moctrams]

Did it myself. Retired telephone Co. I have rewired many boats over my 30 years at Flag Harbor in southern Maryland. Owner buys all the "stuff" and I only charge labor. The max I ever charged for labor was $1500.00. It's all fun anyway.