Engine Installation on the Far Reach

[John Stone]

I decided to cut up some scrap silicon bronze and inset them into the to of the plywood beds under the G10. This will provide a stronger base to tap into for the bolts that secure the engine feet to the beds. If we were to ever get a serious knock down or, God forbid, rolled I don’t want that engine coming lose.

Cold and rainy here now.

[John Stone]

Got the starboard bed tacked in place. This was the tricky one. The port side will be easy. I used West Six10–a premixed cartridge of thickened epoxy you dispense with a caulking gun. More expensive than I prefer but given the nature of how this needed to go in, the ease and convenience made it the right call. It’s lined up pretty well.

It’ll be a week at least before both beds are full glassed in and covered in Biaxial. Then, Phase I, the most difficult but least expensive phase, will be complete.

[Walter Hobbs]

John, You may be the ONLY sailor with "scrap" silicon bronze!

[John Stone]

John, You may be the ONLY sailor with "scrap" silicon bronze!

[John Stone]

Went back to the boat this morning. The starboard bed is firmly epoxied in place. It’s plumb and level and tilted down fore-to-aft 4° in concert with the shaft log. I removed the engine template and the cleats screwed to the bottom of it that simulated the G10 top. I laid the G10 on the top of the beds and repositioned the template. Looks good. I removed the template and then also removed the port bed that was bolted in position. I’ll take it home to lay the epoxy/biaxial on the side that abuts the bulkhead since I can’t apply the biaxial to that side once it’s bolted in place. After it’s cured I will bring it back to the boat and epoxy and bolt it in place. Then, I’ll add the biaxial to both sides of the starboard bed and the inside of the port engine bed. That will essentially complete phase I.

Slow and steady wins the race.

[John Stone]

I took the port bed home to apply the biaxial. I needed four layers on the bulkhead side to provide enough of a spacer against the bulkhead so the aft rear foot will have sufficient bed width to sit on—remember the engine is canted to port. I also needed four layers on the top since I allowed for the extra 1/4” height. The biaxial over the top secures the G10 top plate to which the engine is bolted—that and the bronze plates layered under the G10. The base of the bed will be epoxied to the hull and bolted to the bulkhead. Then, additional layers will be laid on to the hull and up the side of the bed to the stagger line on the inboard side.

The laminating schedule for port bed was two layers 1708 on bulkhead side extended over top to inboard edge of G10. Then, two more larger layers over bulkhead side over top then down inboard side and staggered. The stagger will allow over lapping layers later from hull up to the stagger line with having a rough uneven seam.

I still need to apply biaxial to the starboard bed as it’s only epoxied to the hull on its base.

We’re getting there. Not too much more to go to complete phase I.

[moctrams]

[John Stone]

Why is the engine "canted" to port??

The details, ad naseum, are in the thread. Below is a picture that might make short work of the explanation.

[John Stone]

Gayle and I applied four layers of 1708 biaxial to the starboard bed yesterday. After the biaxial was laid on we applied peel-ply and left it overnight with a couple shop lights on it to keep it warm. We also kept a heater running in the boat as I usually do during the winter.

Today I pulled the peel ply and sanded the bed. I cut the biaxial panels for the port bed but ran out of time to apply it. Maybe tomorrow...if I can sneak away.

[John Stone]

I returned to the Far Reach this morning. She was delighted to see me probably thinking there was no way I would return on Christmas Eve. But, we got to get back on the water as soon as we can....

Anyway, before I could install the port bed I wet out the 3/8” plywood shim I had previously epoxied below the staving to make the bulkhead flush down to the hull. I wet out the underside of the bed that fits against the hull. I also wet out the hull with slightly thickened epoxy. I applied two tubes of West Systems Six10 epoxy to the underside of the bed. I just gooped it on. I applied some thickened epoxy to a selected portion of the outboard side of the bed that fits against the plywood shim below the staving. Then, I set the bed in place and rant the bolts through the bed and the bulkhead (I had previously costed them with WD-40). I tightened the nuts and used a radiused squeegee to spread out the squeeze out.

Next, I wet out the three layers of 1708 biaxial I cut yesterday. I applied them in sequence with the largest applied first. I carefully squeegeed the biaxial eliminating any air bubbles. Then. I applied a layer of peel-ply.

Last, I added a single layer of 10oz biaxial to the forward face of the starboard bed to seal the last exposed face of the plywood beds and covered it with peel-ply as well.

I’ll pull the peel ply the day after Christmas and then perform a bit of fairing to make both beds neat and tidy. That will complete Phase I (Install shaft log and engine beds). The hardest part of the engine installation will then be completed.

[John Stone]

I pulled the peel ply yesterday. The engine bed looked very good. I washed it down to remove any amine blush (there should have been none due to the peel-ply). Then, I sanded with the Porter Cable RO DA sander using 40 grit with vacuum hose attached to keep the dust down. Next, I faired with West 105/205 and a 407 medium density filler. I mixed in some 406 to make it extra sticky and add some extra body.

Today, I needed some adventure. So I rode my KLR 650 through the Croatan National Forrest on 15 miles of dirt roads and then 15 miles of country road pavement to the boat yard. I washed the beds down with a wet 3M pad and wiped it dry to remove any amine blush. Then, I sanded yesterday’s fairing compound with 80 grit and then applied some neat epoxy to the low spots. Once it tacked up I applied the second layer of fairing using West 105/205 with some 410 micro light filler. The 410 is not structural. Just easier to sand.

I’m just plodding along while eating the elephant a bite at a time and day dreaming of getting back out to sea.

[John Stone]

The last couple days have been spent sanding and fairing. I’m not looking for perfection in the engine compartment but desiring a neat and tidy job.

Today should be the last day of fairing. Just a few dimples here and there. After sanding and an acetone wipe-down I marked the dimples with a Sharpie otherwise I can’t see them, though they will show up under grey paint. Then, I mixed up some neat epoxy and brushed it on with an acid brush. Next, I mixed up a very small amount of epoxy with some 406 and 410 micro-lite. Finally, I used a small flexible 2” wide squeegee to spread it on. That should do it. I’ll sand tomorrow. I may roll on the covering layers of neat epoxy this week or maybe a bit later. I need to fit the anchor racks and the drip tray for the engine and stuffing box.

Also, I found a neat little squeegee for fillets I had not seen before I started buying supplies at the small chandlery in the boat yard complex. It’s wide but flexible. Has really helped me make wider/deeper fillets that are consistent in size and very smooth.

We still have a long way to go. “Keep going” I tell myself....

[Jim Walsh]

Nice work. Will the drip tray be one unit or do you wish to keep them discrete from one another to help pinpoint a leak?

[John Stone]

Nice work. Will the drip tray be one unit or do you wish to keep them discrete from one another to help pinpoint a leak?

Thanks Jim. Probably separate...if only to keep the tray shorter. I’m thinking about plumbing the drip catch from the stuffing box to my grey water tank. Also, I could put a small ball valve on that line and drain it into a bucket to keep track of how much water was dripping. Not sure if that is valuable or not. Got any thoughts on it?

[JD-MDR]

[quote="ak?

r. I’m thinking about plumbing the drip catch from the stuffing box to my grey water tank. te]
That's a great idea. I don't have a tank. I'm constantly vacuuming water from the drip and also the ice box that goes into the bilge. I was trying come up with a way to drain them out with the galley sink.