CD30 Bowsprit

[jbenagh]

Thanks for the dimensions and the photos. Boatyard got the sprit off today so I can use it as a template.
Jeff

[JD-MDR]

Here are some photos of my work. I cqan't figure out how to attach the lead to it. "Bowsprit for 30k posted 4/16/17. The 2 x 6 x 10' teak board cost $450 I think 1/3 of that got wasted in sawdust

[JD-MDR]

My CD30 . Also, mine was bolted through the strips with bronze rod at the forward end which I know since I cut through it when adding the anchor roller. I've made bolts like this of bronze rod and cut threads for a washer an nut at both ends.
Jeff

Oh ,One hint when you put the bronze rods in be sure you don't put them in the way of where any of the hardware will be , like mounting bolts etc. Mine weren't threaded rod with nuts and washers just plain 3/8" rods.

[Kickin Bears]

Some pics from some work time I was able to out into the bowsprit yesterday. I started off trying grind the nuts / bolts out from inside but there wasn’t enough room to work safely.

So I cut the heads off the bolts deck-side by cutting a “+” across the head and breaking off the four pieces. I was able to knock all the bolts through except for two that won’t budge

Thought it was going to be easy from here, but the 5200 is giving me real headache. I was able to hammer a putty knife under the section at the anchor hole, but anything forward of that section just bounces the putty knife back out (and I’m smacking the hell out of the putty knife with a hammer)

I could use some advice on how to deal with the 5200 / pry the bowsprit off without damaging the glass, some words of encouragement, or both.

JD - great job on the bowsprit! Nice addition on the windlass and the riser for the club boom!

[John Stone]

Some pics from some work time I was able to out into the bowsprit yesterday. I started off trying grind the nuts / bolts out from inside but there wasn’t enough room to work safely.

So I cut the heads off the bolts deck-side by cutting a “+” across the head and breaking off the four pieces. I was able to knock all the bolts through except for two that won’t budge

Thought it was going to be easy from here, but the 5200 is giving me real headache. I was able to hammer a putty knife under the section at the anchor hole, but anything forward of that section just bounces the putty knife back out (and I’m smacking the hell out of the putty knife with a hammer)

I could use some advice on how to deal with the 5200 / pry the bowsprit off without damaging the glass, some words of encouragement, or both.

JD - great job on the bowsprit! Nice addition on the windlass and the riser for the club boom!

Kickin Bears, stay the course...wiith persistence and some clever use of cutting tools and wedges it will come off. Here is how I did it. removal is near the beginning. http://www.farreachvoyages.com/projects ... ation.html

I cut some large wooden wedges. They were the key. I used a multi-max tool made by dremel—there are better made ones available. I used the cutting blade to cut under the edge near the end of the bowsprit. I drove a wedge in on both sides lifting the end just a little. Then I cut with a hack saw blade with tape around the blade—no saw handle. I tried a wire like a garrote, but it broke. A cheap flexible Japanese pull saw might work better. Then I leap frogged to the other end, cutting with the multimax, driving in wedges with a dead blow to lifetime the bow sprit a small amount, and cutting with the saw. The journal says it took about three hours.

I’m sure there are other ways to do it. The key is to do it in a way that does not damage the boat and create additional work for yourself.

[Kickin Bears]

Thx John ... some great ideas I just picked up there. I’ll have to figure out how to make some wedges with the tools I have; wish I had a band saw. Thinking I can use my jigsaw and 2x4s

For the saw, I have a small handsaw that takes a hacksaw blade and makes it a flex saw. Thinking it’ll work for same purpose. I love the idea of using tape on the blade to get even lower on the cut.

Any idea why two bolts mid bowsprit won’t hammer through?

I was using a screw driver and hammer to push the bolts through, but these two bolts have no give nor the feeling that they are going to give when I smack them. Its as if they are welded to the plate

[John Stone]

Thx John ... some great ideas I just picked up there. I’ll have to figure out how to make some wedges with the tools I have; wish I had a band saw. Thinking I can use my jigsaw and 2x4s

For the saw, I have a small handsaw that takes a hacksaw blade and makes it a flex saw. Thinking it’ll work for same purpose. I love the idea of using tape on the blade to get even lower on the cut.

Any idea why two bolts mid bowsprit won’t hammer through?

I was using a screw driver and hammer to push the bolts through, but these two bolts have no give nor the feeling that they are going to give when I smack them. Its as if they are welded to the plate

I cut the wedges on my table saw. I would love to have an old 20” bandsaw, alas I never got one...the one tool I wish I had. However you cut them you want them smooth on the sides so they have minimal friction. I think I even waxed them. You can cut them with a hand or power hand plane. Or maybe with the jig say and clean them up with a hand plane.

The bolts could have their threads hung up on the steel backing plate or embedded in 5200. Try heating the bolts up from the inside of the boat with a torch and hammering them out from above. Heat can be effective on 5200. Try cutting around the bolt with small hole saw with guide bit removed. Use tape to Mark the saw blade so you stop short of the deck. Also, get yourself a large steel punch to hammer on vice a screw driver. Or a steel rod from Lowe’s and cut it off 6” long.

[JD-MDR]

Thanks Kicken Bears, I remember how hard the Sprit was stuck .I just used a lot of wedges and a head gun. . You can see I'm kinda careless with the 4200 or 5200 whatever I used. I find it's easy to pick clean with a razor when it is dry. I wonder if its worth it to cut the bronze rods out and reuse them?

[S/V Ethan Grey]

Kickin Bears, any idea where you're going to get the teak? I need to order some but not sure where to go for a reliable source of good qquality teak. Thanks

[Kickin Bears]

Thx John .. will hit up the hardware store for a punch, and will try heat as well

Kickin Bears, any idea where you're going to get the teak? I need to order some but not sure where to go for a reliable source of good qquality teak. Thanks

Not sure yet, though I’m leveraging connections I’ve made with the yard and a local rigger for help. Will keep you posted on which channel nets me best results.

[JD-MDR]

[quote="Kickin Bears"]Thx John .. will hit up the hardware store for a punch, and will try heat as well

They have a 12" galvanized spike/ nail at home depot . It worked well after you cut the point off. It was cheap. 62 cents

[tjr818]

Kickin Bears, any idea where you're going to get the teak? I need to order some but not sure where to go for a reliable source of good qquality teak. Thanks

The best tool that I have found for this is a multi-tool with a toothless blade, there are several toothless blades made they are like putty knives and can be resharpened as needed. Here is a link to one type: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-2-in- ... /202349442

Keep it flat and it won't damage the fiberglass.

[John Stone]

Kickin Bears, any idea where you're going to get the teak? I need to order some but not sure where to go for a reliable source of good qquality teak. Thanks

The best tool that I have found for this is a multi-tool with a toothless blade, there are several toothless blades made they are like putty knives and can be resharpened as needed. Here is a link to one type: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-2-in- ... /202349442

Keep it flat and it won't damage the fiberglass.

That’s exactly what I used. I also rounded the corners a little so they could not dig into the gelcoat.

[John Stone]

I had forgotten about this page on our original website. While it has not been updated there is some info there that might be of use to someone attempting similar projects.

http://www.farreachvoyages.com/tools.html

[Kickin Bears]

Catching up on the thread still. Going to go through the tools recommendations. Still trying to figure out the easiest way to make some oak shims. I stopped by the hardware store and picked up the metal punches and snagged some plastic shims (being the only thing I could find on my way out to the boat)

The good news is that the punches helped me get all 10 bolts out. Also, the small flex saw I have worked ok to get started cutting out the adhesive

The bad news is I only had one 12” blade and I bent the hell out of it (and eventually broke it). I’m scratching up the gel coat within 1” of the bowsprit but at a point I really don’t give a crap lol. Will figure out how to clean that up as a temporary once the bowsprit is off. Going to bring a few packs of 18TPI hack saw blades next round, and a more durable specifically purpose made flex saw of some sort

The plastic shims were a joke of course, as I knew they would be, but they only cost my me $2 so no biggie. Better to have tried

I ended up using the putty knife for ~2hrs, being my only option at this point, using muscle to force it up under to try and sever the bowsprit and adhesive. I made progress at least by freeing up the back 5-6” of the bow sprit and was able to work the putty knife ~1-2” in on all sides up to the bow toe tail. I think there’s enough room to get a shim under there now, so I’ll call that progress

The adhesive is still very pliable so thinking its not 5200; I thought 5200 goes totally solid but maybe I have that wrong (?). This job is still the suck though haha my arms are super sore today; great way to get a workout (way better than static lifting lol)

Going to check out the links you all posted. Thank you; keep em coming!

Edit / update - Re: the multitool idea; I need one. will a lithium battery powered multi tool work? I’m trying to move away from corded stuff so that I can take my tools with me in 5-6yrs (part of the “plan” to voyaging once the kids move out; will be a different boat though)