Ok, I finally got the hang of it and have 3 seacocks done!!!!
Now of course I have one that is "frozen" can not get the barrel out,
light tapping no help..... What to do ?
Michael Heintz
Machts Nichts
mzenith@saol.com
OK got 3 seacocks done !!!!now one frozen!!!!!!!
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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charlie palumbo
Re: OK got 3 seacocks done !!!!now one frozen!!!!!!!
Mike,michael Heintz wrote: Ok, I finally got the hang of it and have 3 seacocks done!!!!
Now of course I have one that is "frozen" can not get the barrel out,
light tapping no help..... What to do ?
Michael Heintz
Machts Nichts
If your seacocks are bronze, give the handle a few good blows in the open/close direction of the handle, with a rubber mallet . Don't be afraid to use a little muscle. Be patient if you don't succeed at first, sooner or later the barrel will dislodge.
Charlie...cd36
jcp1347@gateway.net
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Michael, DON'T smack it....
Michael,
If you hit it too hard, you can bend the threaded part of the barrel. If you hit the handle too hard, you can break the handle! Better to spray it with some penetrating oil, let it soak(read that, DRINK a beer!). Then, get a large pipe wrench, one that will fit over the area where the handle attaches to the barrel(I used about a 15" wrench to free the one under the head sink), and apply pressure. You don't want to actually be on the barrel, just on the handle yoke that attaches to the barrel. You should be able to break it free this way, but, really, DON'T smack it too hard!! Unfortunately, the valve handles are too short to be able to apply sufficient pressure to the barrel to free up a stuck one. You need the extra leverage provided by the pipe wrench.
Hope this helps....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei
If you hit it too hard, you can bend the threaded part of the barrel. If you hit the handle too hard, you can break the handle! Better to spray it with some penetrating oil, let it soak(read that, DRINK a beer!). Then, get a large pipe wrench, one that will fit over the area where the handle attaches to the barrel(I used about a 15" wrench to free the one under the head sink), and apply pressure. You don't want to actually be on the barrel, just on the handle yoke that attaches to the barrel. You should be able to break it free this way, but, really, DON'T smack it too hard!! Unfortunately, the valve handles are too short to be able to apply sufficient pressure to the barrel to free up a stuck one. You need the extra leverage provided by the pipe wrench.
Hope this helps....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei
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Bill
Re: OK got 3 seacocks done !!!!now one frozen!!!!!!!
Michael
Frozen in the open/closed position or you can't get the plub/barrel out of the mating part?
If it is stuck and you cnat tap it "out" put the nuts back on losily (sp) and tap on the nut pretty good. Make sure you cant mess up the threads on the end of the barrel.
Good Luck
Bill
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
Frozen in the open/closed position or you can't get the plub/barrel out of the mating part?
If it is stuck and you cnat tap it "out" put the nuts back on losily (sp) and tap on the nut pretty good. Make sure you cant mess up the threads on the end of the barrel.
Good Luck
Bill
michael Heintz wrote: Ok, I finally got the hang of it and have 3 seacocks done!!!!
Now of course I have one that is "frozen" can not get the barrel out,
light tapping no help..... What to do ?
Michael Heintz
Machts Nichts
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
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matt cawthorne
Depends
Mike,
One year I (or the yard) was dumb enough to leave the galley seacock closed when the boat was hauled. The water inside froze and squeezed the barrel outward into the holes in the housing. I eventually pounded it out, filed the barrel and lapped the seacock. When I was all done I bought a new one because the thought that some damage might have occurred while I was hammering it made me worry too much. That is one form of "frozen". If that is your problem just buy a new one.
More than likely the seacock was not greased with a proper grease or greased at all for several years. I had one like this when I bought my CD-36. I would not hammer on the handle as the fork that goes over the barrel is not meant to handle those loads. What I did was put the nut and locknut on the end of the threaded portion to protect the threads and hit the end with a hammer. No damage to the threads and none to the handle or barrel. Once you get it apart, remove the handle and lap the barrel to the body. The handle comes off with a set screw. You will use the handle or a wrench to turn the barrel, but this allows you to rotate it all the way around. Put lapping compound on the barrel, insert it, do ten 1/4 turns back and fourth. Turn it 90 degrees and repeat. Do the same until your have done all four segments, clean and inspect. If the pattern is very smooth all the way around clean it again and assemble. If not lap it again. This job should be around an hour including finding tools and cleaning up, but it is not hard.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
One year I (or the yard) was dumb enough to leave the galley seacock closed when the boat was hauled. The water inside froze and squeezed the barrel outward into the holes in the housing. I eventually pounded it out, filed the barrel and lapped the seacock. When I was all done I bought a new one because the thought that some damage might have occurred while I was hammering it made me worry too much. That is one form of "frozen". If that is your problem just buy a new one.
More than likely the seacock was not greased with a proper grease or greased at all for several years. I had one like this when I bought my CD-36. I would not hammer on the handle as the fork that goes over the barrel is not meant to handle those loads. What I did was put the nut and locknut on the end of the threaded portion to protect the threads and hit the end with a hammer. No damage to the threads and none to the handle or barrel. Once you get it apart, remove the handle and lap the barrel to the body. The handle comes off with a set screw. You will use the handle or a wrench to turn the barrel, but this allows you to rotate it all the way around. Put lapping compound on the barrel, insert it, do ten 1/4 turns back and fourth. Turn it 90 degrees and repeat. Do the same until your have done all four segments, clean and inspect. If the pattern is very smooth all the way around clean it again and assemble. If not lap it again. This job should be around an hour including finding tools and cleaning up, but it is not hard.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
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Larry DeMers
Re: OK got 3 seacocks done !!!!now one frozen!!!!!!!
Mike,
Don't use more force than the handle can exert in a rotational direction (No Hammering!). The material is binding due to lack of lubrication, so trying to force rotation against that binding will certainly bend the handle. It could also scar the plug or mating surface beyond what mere lapping can remove.
Use the two nuts on the shaft, unscrew them and then tap lightly on the center point of the nuts. If the plug is still stubborn, heat the outside of the seacock with a broad flammed heat source or a heat gun kept moving all the time (Do NOT allow it to stand in one spot for more than 1 sec. You will warp the fitting by overheating one area and not the others). You will not need much size change to break the hold I suspect.
Folks....this is why I service my seacocks yearly. Regardless of whether they stick or not. (A previous thread on this topic had some people suggesting that a yearly greasing is overkill and unwarranted..).
Good Luck!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
Don't use more force than the handle can exert in a rotational direction (No Hammering!). The material is binding due to lack of lubrication, so trying to force rotation against that binding will certainly bend the handle. It could also scar the plug or mating surface beyond what mere lapping can remove.
Use the two nuts on the shaft, unscrew them and then tap lightly on the center point of the nuts. If the plug is still stubborn, heat the outside of the seacock with a broad flammed heat source or a heat gun kept moving all the time (Do NOT allow it to stand in one spot for more than 1 sec. You will warp the fitting by overheating one area and not the others). You will not need much size change to break the hold I suspect.
Folks....this is why I service my seacocks yearly. Regardless of whether they stick or not. (A previous thread on this topic had some people suggesting that a yearly greasing is overkill and unwarranted..).
Good Luck!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
michael Heintz wrote: Ok, I finally got the hang of it and have 3 seacocks done!!!!
Now of course I have one that is "frozen" can not get the barrel out,
light tapping no help..... What to do ?
Michael Heintz
Machts Nichts
demers@sgi.com