“Leoma” update 11/19

[JD-MDR]

I put the Garmin 742xs Plus in. It will control my new Jefa autopilot. I’ve got all the componets mounted and pulled all the cables. I'm a little confused so I will get the technician to finish. Looks like its time to start on the instrument and distribution panels. Ill have to think about it but I think I will make a small teak cabinet to fit in the corner.

[fmueller]

same panel I put in Jerezana two years ago ... and same spot I put my B&G chart plotter ...

My panel came with generic labels for the fuse/switches; including "Engine Room" which we used to label one switch for an L.E.D. placed right over the new Beta, mounted to the underside of the cockpit sole ... I'm still looking for table/chairs and an expresso machine for the "engine room" ...

Fred

[JD-MDR]

Hi Fred. Looks like I have way more wires A lot of them dont go to anything. Im pulling out what i can. Im wondering if i should replace all the 40 yr old stuf. At least the easy ones

[Frenchy]

JD, if you decide to replace the battery cables, this outfit linked below will make up whatever length and
gauge you need. Their cables are nice and limp, too. The old originals were as stiff as coat hangar
wire. - Jean



http://www.bestboatwire.com/custom-cabl ... e-assembly

[John Stone]

How are you doing out there JD? Are you sailing much or are you deep into boat projects? How is your new Jeffa auto pilot working out?

[JD-MDR]

I just got in. In time for a Christmas dinner at my brothers in Redondo Beach. Thursday I left in 20-25 knots wind. Went across the channel to Yellow banks anchorage. They revised the forecast to Gale warnings 25-35. I was a little worried with my little 25# CQR . But it held. I can't believe that little 5/8" nylon is so strong. I also have 100' chain. I have a problem. I need to figure out how to make a bridle . It can't be good the way the rode rubs on the bobstay. It kept me up for three nights. It was really screaming. I kept going out to move the line a little so it wouldn't chaff. As forecasted The wind died down a little around midnight Saturday. It was really nice sailing back. The sail plan posted on the boat says in 25-35 to use the jib and reefed mizzen but my mizzen doesn't reef. There is something wrong . It's too hard to get trimmed good. It's always flapping too much. I used double reefed main and the little jib on the club boom. I love my dodger and canvass. and the Jeffa autopilot is perfect. There is no noticeable restriction on the helm when it's disengaged. I got everything directly underneath the wheel shaft in the lazerette. I mounted the new instrament panel . but I have tyo redo it some day when I can afford to do interior work. I bought a teak cabinet door and face frame but it turned out too small. I butchered the mortise and tendon joints. It's really hard to make what I want. But it's in place and secure with all the wiring redone with heat shrink fittings. I'll post that photo next time. Here some photos of the anchorage problem. I would appreciate info on how to make a bridle. Thanks

[John Stone]

JD
That sounds great. You are hammering away at it. Glad to see you’re getting some sailing in when you can. I don’t understand the issue with your mizzen. Should reef the same as the main, more or less. Would think another CD 30K owner would have pictures. Or anyone with a set up on a ketch should be able to point the way.

You can set up a bridal. Lots of folks use them. I use a pendant run to a block that’s attached to the kranze iron. Very simple. Pictures attached. I would think you could rig one the bowsprit opposite the side of your roller. Incorporate a wide base plate. Or perhaps a large shackle with the clevis pin also serving as the clevis pin for the bobstay turnbuckle. It would also support a robust block. That would be the strongest, simplest, and cleanest looking.

Also, you can cover the bob stay with 1/2” ID sanitation hose split along its length and slipped over the bobstay with a couple whippings to close it tight. Or if you have a swaged rigging screw just unscrew it from the turnbuckle and slide it through the hose and reattach to your turnbuckle.

[John Stone]

Also, it just occurred to me you can just put a roller on the port side of the bowsprit and run a snubber over that side to your bower.

[JD-MDR]

Thanks John. I thought It wasn't good to run the rode to the bowsprit since I don't have any lateral support. I think I said that right. I mean for the sideways forces. Maybe that big 2x12 is good enough since that is how it was designed. I thought of putting a pvc pipe over the bobstay but that would look horrible. It would be easy to make a bridle if I had all chain. Also about the mizzen. Don't I need to have eyelets for the tack and clew to reef down. I think I need a halyard winch. It seems like I'm not getting it tight enough. There is still some wrinkles. I pull it as hard as I can. It only seems good on a reach. Close hauled I have to tie it to windward a little. It seems like that would just be brakeing. I'll work it out eventually. The new reefing for the main is great, with the rings and snapshackle. (I think mine is called a carabiner), also the boom brake. It's all working great.. I got to get caught up on finances for a while, plus it's Christmas time and then taxes again. Merry Christmas everybody.

[Jim Walsh]

I thought It wasn't good to run the rode to the bowsprit.

It might be best not to do so if you were preparing for winds in excess of 50 knots but I have had no issues running my rode through a roller on the bowsprit in sustained 30 knot winds for three days which included gusts to the low 40’s.
In these situations the openness of the anchorage would be a prime concern. Wave action can be the critical factor. The ability to keep your rode in place on the anchor roller is a must.

[John Stone]

I can’t imagine you need lateral support for a plank style bowsprit that short. I would not hesitate to run a snubber over an adjacent roller. Jim’s right about capturing the snubber if you run it over a roller. I have a bolt I can thread through the roller cheeks to capture the chain so it cant jump out. But my snubber runs through a block so it’s a non issue for me. Spartan makes a nice roller with a capture bolt I think. But you can weld a copy from SS.

Yes, you need cringles in the mizzen to reef it. Should be easy to add. You could add a small halyard winch to the mizzen but I would just check the sheave, make sure it’s ok and lubricated and has the correct size halyard. Also, lube the sail slugs. If needed you could rig up a simple dynema cascade or simple 2:1 or 3:1 block and tackle and attach the bottom end to the deck or low on the mast and the top end to the halyard with a rolling hitch above the cleat height. Then you have a mechanical advantage when you pull down. When it’s tight enough tie the tail off to the halyard cleat. That’s how they did it in the old days. They called it a “nipper”. I was going use that system to tighten the halyards on the FR but my wife looked at me like I was from another planet so I quietly added halyard winches. But your mizzen is small so you should be able to get by with something simple and traditional.

As mentioned I would look at purchasing 1/2” ID sanitation hose. It has a plastic helix core and though it’s flexible it is super tough. I think it looks very good. I attached a picture of the one I added to the FR about a year ago. I have spliced rigging over bronze thimbles so I had to slit the hose to fit it over the bobstay. But you can slip the rigging right through the hose.

[JD-MDR]

Great I'll go back to using the roller on the sprit and back to the cleat. I'll have to figure out some kinda nipper system for my mizzen. I have two 25# CQR's. I'm looking to trade one for a 35# and I plan to get new chain and the 8 plait rode. The Lewmar windlass only takes 5/8" line. I want first class ground tackle . That was scary waiting out that blow. I'm not sure what my priorty was. I made a list while out there. It's on the boat./ It's a full page long.Here's a photo of my crewmember. (My Niece)

[Jim Walsh]

I don’t want to turn this into an anchor thread but the CQR has been vastly improved upon. I used them for decades. My personal favorite is a Spade, but I also carry a Mantus. There are a handful of the “modern” designs which now have proven track histories. Since you are looking to upgrade I’d do a little looking at what is now available.
Your bow roller looks up to the task....in my opinion. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it.

[John Stone]

I don’t want to turn this into an anchor thread but the CQR has been vastly improved upon. I used them for decades. My personal favorite is a Spade, but I also carry a Mantus. There are a handful of the “modern” designs which now have proven track histories. Since you are looking to upgrade I’d do a little looking at what is now available.
Your bow roller looks up to the task....in my opinion. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it.

JD
I’m with Jim on this one. I grew up with CQRs. I had two that came with the FR. Ditched them both. I now carry a 45lb Spade as primary on the bow and 35 lb as a back up in a special locker. CQR is a good anchor. But the Spade or it’s related brothers like the Rocna is vastly superior. Certainly my not a must have but has helped me sleep better on windy nights.

[Steve Laume]

If funds are not an issue then a newest generation anchor would be the way to go, if you feel you need to replace an anchor. If your budget is limited and you now have a 25 Lb. CQR, then going to a 35 Lb. CQR would be a vast improvement. These anchors are now available in consignment shops for a fraction of their original cost. They are still very good anchors and going oversized adds an extra level of security. I still run a 35 Lb. CQR on Raven and the only times I have ever had issues is when there was very heavy weed of some variety or extremely soft mud. I have never had it drag, once set, in hundreds of nights in all sorts of conditions. With grass or weed I have had to try a couple of times or look for a spot where you could see a sandy patch. In very soft bottoms I have found that lots of scope and setting it slower than usual seems to get it done.

I never leave the rode in the bow roller if conditions are not foretasted to be mild with little wave action. It may be just fine but I don't hope to discover the limits of when it isn't. I run 90' of chain and then a couple of hundred feet of nylon. I like to anchor shallow enough that I can let out all of my chain with a long snubber hooked into it near the end. I can then run the rode through the starboard chock and the snubber through the port side. This forms a nice bridle long enough to stay clear of the bobstay. I also have a little riding sail but rarely rig it. It seems like it would be easy to set something up on the mizzen, cleated to one side, to keep the boat settled.

CQRs have had a great reputation for a long time. The newest generation of anchors may be marginally better in some or even all situations but is there enough difference to warrent their expense if you are on a limited budget and you could pick up a nice, oversized, CQR for cheap or free and then use the money you saved for some other boat related expense?

I am also sticking with my wheel, Steve.