Question re: toe rail gap / covering for winter

[Kickin Bears]

The previous owner really let the teak go, so we’ve been working on stripping all old varnish, sanding smooth, and oiling (which is what we’re going to maintain). There is a spot along the rub rail where a 1/8-1/4” gap has opened up, about 6” long though

A couple questions as this is my first boat with teak:

- Would caulking the gap be an “ok” fix for the winter? I’m concerned about the gap over the winter expanding due to freezing water. My guess is this is how it started

- Can I glue / epoxy the gap as a a fix? Or do I have to take the teak rail off?

Appreciate guidance here. The boat looks so much better; just chipping away at the neglect she went through previously

As a side note, we were not planning to have her wrapped. We’re still on the fence about this, but long story short we’d rather put the ~$500+ into other boat projects. The folks at the marina said there’s a 50/50 split re: folks covering their boats for the winter. Our current plan is to cover the hatch and coaming with tarps to keep water out. I’m replacing the bowsprit this winter, and the mast is unstepped, else I’d make an A-frame off the mast and standing rigging.

I welcome opinions here (she’s kept mid-Chesapeake Bay if that helps)

[BernieA]

Depending on where the gap is, I would avoid using caulk. If you're writing about a split in the rail wooditself, it would probably be best to use an epoxy glue and clamp the gap closed. you will need to be sure there isn't any crud or degraded wood in the gap before gluing.
The problem I see with caulk is that you will want to remove it later to glue and clamp the gap, and removing the caulk will be a problem, and if you don't get it all out it will affect your glue job.

[Ben Miller]

If the gap is between the rub rail and the hull, I'd just leave it for the winter. Any water that gets in the gap can drain out the bottom, so I doubt it'll get worse. In the spring it's probably worthwhile taking the whole thing off and remounting it properly. For one thing, it'll be a lot easier to clean/sand/oil when it's off the boat. Plus then you get a chance to remount it properly and resolve any other unseen problems.

If the gap is crack in the teak or a wood-to-wood joint then I agree with Bernie. I'd avoid doing a quick fix now that you'd have to undo next year. Just let it sit until you can do a proper job. I don't see it getting that much worse over the winter.

[Kickin Bears]

Thx both; it’s the latter (split in the rail itself). I’ll post a picture when I’m back out there.

Totally understand the issue with removing the caulk being a pain, which is why I thought I’d ask. There is some type of caulk or quick-fix I’m picking out of the split from previous owner already. I may try to tape some plastic over it just so I can say I tried something preventative

Will bring some clamps with me too, to see if I can get the gap to close up. Combo epoxy + clamps would be perfect scenario thinking about it

Any opinion on plastic cover for boat for winter?

[Dick Villamil]

When epoxying teak you must first wipe the joint with acetone to remove the surface teak oils then apply the epoxy and clamp. The natural teak oils will prevent a good bonding of the epoxy. If you do remove the rail, it is likely to lose some of the bend - when reinstalling it start from the area with the maximum curve (stern) and proceed to caulk and attach. Do it on a relatively warm day (60s to 70s) so as to allow good curing time and when the wood is more pliable. Eager to see the pice before during and after! I did this with my Typhoon and the teak is still in great shape after 12 years.

[Carl Thunberg]

Are you really going to get another day in the 60s to 70s before winter? I won't get into the cover vs. no-cover debate because I'm not in your geographical area. In Maine, almost all boats get covered, but that's Maine. To get you by for winter, you could tape a piece of poly over the affected area to keep water out. Do a quality taping job, because poly can also seal water in. You could also just leave well enough alone for winter and deal with it in the spring. The crack has clearly been there for a while. What's one more winter?

If you choose to cover, the secret to a successful cover is a tall ridge pole. The taller the better, so snow will just slide off.

[Kickin Bears]

To be clear, I’m just going to take some clamps with me to see if the gap will close with pressure. I won’t be playing with epoxy right now, especially with temps dropping to freezing over the next week. If the gap closes with clamps, I’lll knock it out first opportunity in spring (though in VA, I still might get some 60s days into Dec lol)

Winters here are interesting in that some years there is very little snow, though when it does snow it tends to dump a lot (I have numerous pics of 12-18”+); however, the same snow is usually almost gone within 72hrs. An occasional icestorm with 1/8-1/4” of ice sheeting does happen once or twice a season

I’ve been reading a lot of opinion online re: covering. I seem to be on a line of geographic ambiguity of whether it’s a waste or not. Will check out the tall ridge pole approach

[Paul D.]

One option I promote a lot, whether you do it yourself, or not is to shrink-wrap the boat and then cut the shrink off in the spring in a certain way and then use that as your boat cover for several more winters. I do that up here in Minnesota, but I do my own shrink wrapping too. You have a form fitted tarp for the boat that needs minimal fitting the first time you reuse it then it is very easy for a few more years. Keeping the teak covered on a Cape Dory goes a long way to preserving it and any of the deck fittings I reckon. Considering the freeze thaw cycles and leaves and sun - everything. So I am a fan of covering our boats.

[Keith]

I also support covering for the winter. I go with the inexpensive green poly tarps. Just checked the price at Ocean State Job Lot. A 20 X 40 was $69. An old salt at the boat yard told me to use two because they will last much longer and he was correct. When using just one it lasted 1 maybe 2 years. I'm on the fifth year with 2 now. The bottom one takes all of the chafe and has some holes but the top one is in great shape. I think that the two of them will last another year or two at a miniumum.

To allow easy access I mount the mast on a few 2x4s on the bow rail and constructed an A frame that I lash to the stern rail. I think the A frame puts the mast about 5 ft off the deck. I climb in under the stern rail and have ample head height in the cockpit and easy access to the companion way. Just yesterday I took of the sea hood (winter project #1 to repair soft spot) and was fabricating new battery storage area (winter project #2). I was doing all of the carpentry work in the cockpit. I'll be posting separately on the winter projects.

Keith

PS The poly tarps let enough light trough to work without additional lights on a sunny day and provide quite good solar gain. It was low 40's yesterday with partial clouds and it was 58 under the tarps. Actually had to shed my hoody.