Whale gusher 8 diaphragm removal?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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- Posts: 125
- Joined: Feb 11th, '06, 11:47
- Location: Cape Dory 25dLake Grapevine, Texas
Whale gusher 8 diaphragm removal?
Need advice on how to,disassemble 25 d manual bilge pump to install defender service kit. I removed screw on the clamp holding diaphragm but there is no hinge to remove clamp, as showm in whale videos. For #10 pump.
I can pry plastic clamp but don’t want to break it. Thanks
I can pry plastic clamp but don’t want to break it. Thanks
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- Posts: 125
- Joined: Feb 11th, '06, 11:47
- Location: Cape Dory 25dLake Grapevine, Texas
Re: Whale gusher 8 diaphragm removal?
I was able to,remove clamp holding the diaphragm only to find that the service kit from defender included a smaller diameter diaphragm apparently sized for the gusher urchin? Pretty much decided to,replace old gusher 8 with a new urchin, hope the bolt holes match!
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- Posts: 125
- Joined: Feb 11th, '06, 11:47
- Location: Cape Dory 25dLake Grapevine, Texas
Re: Whale gusher 8 diaphragm removal?
No obvious tears in the old diaphragm, can’t figure why it stopped pulling suction? Tested again off the boat and it wouldn’t maintain suction thru a 2’ hose submerged? So I don’t think the problem is a blocked suction hose.
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- Posts: 892
- Joined: Feb 8th, '17, 14:23
- Location: s/v "Leoma" 1977 CD 30K #46 San Francisco CA
Re: Whale gusher 8 diaphragm removal?
I have the gusher 10. I took the pump apart and found much corrosion . I bought all the replacement parts and got the pump working . Then after a few weeks it wouldn't work. I took it apart probably 10 times. I bought new hose and a check valve. I was so frustrated. Then I found one at the second hand store that looked good as new for $90. After a few weeks it didn't work. So I had probably $250 in those dang things. I was about to buy a brand new one. but I gave it one more try. I took it apart and saw I had one of the valves backwards. Also I found some debris stuck in the valve. I reassembled everything and put grease on all the rubber parts. I got a bronze strainer at the consignment store. I also tried to route the hose as direct as possible with no up and down curves. I think that was a problem . The hose comes up near the front of the engine and over the engine mount then drops back down a little. I think that makes a air gap or something. I seems to be working good now. I only pump 4 or 5 times and it goes. It really put out a lot of water. They seem so simple I couldn't imagine why I was having so much problem with these. I still have these household drain fitting . though I've been advised not to use cheap plastic. They fit perfect and make the tight turn. I used to have the hoses make a big turn but they took up too much space. I'll probably keep the cheap plastic for a while till I can afford brass elbow and nipples.
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Last edited by JD-MDR on Sep 11th, '19, 09:26, edited 3 times in total.
WDM3579
MMSI 368198510
MMSI 368198510
- Bob Ohler
- Posts: 610
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 14:11
- Location: CD30 1984 Hull# 335 Aloha Spirit, Chesapeake Bay
Re: Whale gusher 8 diaphragm removal?
The black plastic top has to removed after removing the bolt. I held the pump in the vise on the workbench. Carefully separate the top where the bolt was removed. Gently pry apart the top and lift up one side of the top of the pump. Then twist it off and disasemble the pump. A trick is to take photos with your phone through the process. I put a rebuild kit from WM in mine and it now works great (again)!
Bob Ohler
CDSOA Member #188
CD30B, Hull # 335
sv Aloha Spirit
CDSOA Member #188
CD30B, Hull # 335
sv Aloha Spirit
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- Posts: 125
- Joined: Feb 11th, '06, 11:47
- Location: Cape Dory 25dLake Grapevine, Texas
Re: Whale gusher 8 diaphragm removal?
The whale gusher Urchin bilge pump proved to be an exact replacement for the gusher 8.
Re: Whale gusher 8 diaphragm removal?
1982 25d-
-ordered WhaleUrchin as an 'in-place' replacement for original Gusher8 MKIII Manual bilge pump.. 6 Bolt holes from original (4 for pump handle/2 for pump body on aft cockpit) do NOT match up. Urchin has a 4 bolt pattern for pump handle and NO pump-body attachment, but Gusher8 handle would be (if it were oriented to fit the Urchin bolt pattern) at a 9-3 o'clock pump position, vice the 12-6 o'clock Gusher pattern.. Inconvenient if steering and pumping. Also very uncomfortable.
-Ordered WM Gusher8/MK III rebuild kit ($46.99) and all went well. After removing the pump from the boat, the Large diaphragm sits OUTSIDE pump body, and can be lifted and removed w/small blade.after removing hose clamp. Handle pivot pin at Diaphragm must be removed (2 C-clamps on pivot pin.... AND diaphragm MUST be in UP position for pin removal clearance). Nut/Bolt holding Plastic Disc (2 pieces- 1 each side of large Black diaphragm) may be disassembled after diaphragm is removed from pump body. Mine were corroded and required PB Blaster and multiple tighten/loosen attempts to break the bolt/nut loose.
- O-Rings are integral to pump body, and are confusing..... supplied new O-rings are ROUND, while originals in body are SQUARE and pressed into small grooves of pump. They are not immediately obvious, but can be picked out/removed w/sharp pointy object. Insertion of New O-rings is by hand (many {6} fingers and patience required) and will stay in place while re-attaching hose inlet/outlet pieces, assuring no unintended air-suck.
Multiple points of corrosion were addressed on this 38 yr old boat's manual bilge pump (believe pump to be original equiipment).
-Brass C-clips corroded.... sanded clean.
-Stainless Diaphragm pin corroded- cleaned w/emery cloth in handheld drill.
-Diapragm screw/bolt assembly corroded- PB Blaster and matching nuts & bolt run thru original eqpt to remove rust/crud.
-O-Rings were CONFUSING. Several posts on this board said they 'did not have' O-Rings.
- The pump body has SQUARE O-rings on the hose suck/push hose attachments (4 screws each side). The replacement O-
rings are ROUND, and their use is not initially apparent. The Square O-rings are easily picked out w/a sharp object and the
New Round O-rings are fitted in the Square indentation of the pump body (Many fingers, Multiple tries, Some patience, but
no Adhesive required).
Old pump flappers/Valves were stiff, new replacements are much more pliable. Should help H20 pickup.
Still to do:
- New "Whale Deckplate/Pump Gaiter Kit"....(Bulkhead Rubber Gasket Seal for pump handle)--- Multiple sellers (Amazon offered best price, but THE 'other ADMIRAL' has Amazon Prime!). Check E-bay/Defender/etc to compare prices. Suprisingly, Wal-mart has them on their website.
Feeling better about the weeping stuffing box, but it's winter, and I don't want to dive the boat until water warms up.
RJ
-ordered WhaleUrchin as an 'in-place' replacement for original Gusher8 MKIII Manual bilge pump.. 6 Bolt holes from original (4 for pump handle/2 for pump body on aft cockpit) do NOT match up. Urchin has a 4 bolt pattern for pump handle and NO pump-body attachment, but Gusher8 handle would be (if it were oriented to fit the Urchin bolt pattern) at a 9-3 o'clock pump position, vice the 12-6 o'clock Gusher pattern.. Inconvenient if steering and pumping. Also very uncomfortable.
-Ordered WM Gusher8/MK III rebuild kit ($46.99) and all went well. After removing the pump from the boat, the Large diaphragm sits OUTSIDE pump body, and can be lifted and removed w/small blade.after removing hose clamp. Handle pivot pin at Diaphragm must be removed (2 C-clamps on pivot pin.... AND diaphragm MUST be in UP position for pin removal clearance). Nut/Bolt holding Plastic Disc (2 pieces- 1 each side of large Black diaphragm) may be disassembled after diaphragm is removed from pump body. Mine were corroded and required PB Blaster and multiple tighten/loosen attempts to break the bolt/nut loose.
- O-Rings are integral to pump body, and are confusing..... supplied new O-rings are ROUND, while originals in body are SQUARE and pressed into small grooves of pump. They are not immediately obvious, but can be picked out/removed w/sharp pointy object. Insertion of New O-rings is by hand (many {6} fingers and patience required) and will stay in place while re-attaching hose inlet/outlet pieces, assuring no unintended air-suck.
Multiple points of corrosion were addressed on this 38 yr old boat's manual bilge pump (believe pump to be original equiipment).
-Brass C-clips corroded.... sanded clean.
-Stainless Diaphragm pin corroded- cleaned w/emery cloth in handheld drill.
-Diapragm screw/bolt assembly corroded- PB Blaster and matching nuts & bolt run thru original eqpt to remove rust/crud.
-O-Rings were CONFUSING. Several posts on this board said they 'did not have' O-Rings.
- The pump body has SQUARE O-rings on the hose suck/push hose attachments (4 screws each side). The replacement O-
rings are ROUND, and their use is not initially apparent. The Square O-rings are easily picked out w/a sharp object and the
New Round O-rings are fitted in the Square indentation of the pump body (Many fingers, Multiple tries, Some patience, but
no Adhesive required).
Old pump flappers/Valves were stiff, new replacements are much more pliable. Should help H20 pickup.
Still to do:
- New "Whale Deckplate/Pump Gaiter Kit"....(Bulkhead Rubber Gasket Seal for pump handle)--- Multiple sellers (Amazon offered best price, but THE 'other ADMIRAL' has Amazon Prime!). Check E-bay/Defender/etc to compare prices. Suprisingly, Wal-mart has them on their website.
Feeling better about the weeping stuffing box, but it's winter, and I don't want to dive the boat until water warms up.
RJ
Re: Whale gusher 8 diaphragm removal?
looks like whale may have redesigned the bulkhead mount version for easier removal of the diaphragm.
Re: Whale gusher 8 diaphragm removal?
Did this job a few years ago. Femme has the Whale Gusher 10; I got the kit from Defender and it was very straight forward, similar to how Bob describes. If I remember right there is some thought needed to placing valves correctly. My pump came apart easily but Femme is in freshwater. I could see needing to pry it apart carefully, maybe some soaking in hot water. Good luck!
Paul
CDSOA Member
CDSOA Member