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Title says it all. I am planning on working a few stanchions this wknd that look either leak prone, bent, or loose and thought I’d try to get some intel on effort / obstacles / hurdles
Initial questions that come to mind are:
- are the stanchions through bolted or screwed into the fiberglass?
- if through bolted, are they accessible from the interior?
- any info on general bolt / nut sizes?
- any general guidance or tips, pitfalls to be aware of, etc?
Thanks in advance for any experience or intel!! I try to be as prepared as possible going into these projects to make sure I have the correct tools with me
I did the two port gate stanchions earlier this year.
They are thru-bolted. There are a lot of other nuts in that vicinity from the genoa track. It's essential to have two people. We used 1/4 ratchets with lots of different length extensions. You'll need deep sockets. Also bring some box end wrenches since a couple nuts were not initially accessible with the socket. Get the exact right size slotted screwdriver -- it's pretty big.
I brought an electric impact wrench but none were that tight. It was useful for getting the right nut to spin so we could ID the one to look at.
Bring a good, bright light and a small mirror so you don't have to get your head up in the cabinetry for every check.
Get some spare nuts and washers since you'll probably drop at least one into the bilge. Put some rags in between the ceiling and the hull to reduce this probability but accept that there will be a few sacrifices. Get some spare machine screws since you may damage some threads or heads. I think these were #12's but may have been #10. Get some spare set screws for the stanchions to bases. Don't expect the old ones will loosen easily.
The diagonal supports are a slightly different size screw but are also thru bolted.
Be prepared with some epoxy to fix damaged holes. Also be prepared to find some that have used adhesive rather than butyl or something like SikaFlex; for those you need a variety of widths of putty knives and maybe some heat. There might be some gelcoat repair needed there too depending on how well the 4200 or 5200 sticks.
The two stanchions took almost 4 hours. I think we could do additional ones much faster. And the two port gate ones are probably the hardest to access. But still, plan some time.
You'll really appreciate the dry cabin when you're done!
This is straightforward but is a two-man job and takes several days to complete. The first day, I removed all the stanchions and backing plates. You will need a ratchet set with a selection of universals, extensions, etc. as some of the nuts are difficult to grab. One guy holds the screw from turning while the other removes the nut and backing plate. Clean all the old sealant off the fiber glass and out of the holes. Sand paper wrapped around a phillips screw driver helps clean out the hole. Cover the holes with tape to prevent rain and dew from entering the boat. Take all the hardware and stanchions home and soak in mineral spirits to soften the old calk.
After a couple of days, run all the bolts thru the die and nuts thru the tap to clean off the old sealant, use a pick and small screw driver to scrape off the backing plates, nuts, and bases, metal polish to shine up everything all pretty and finally acetone to de-grease all mating surfaces. Any bent, corroded, or ruined fasteners should be replaced.
Choose the calk you will be using. I used LifeCalk, and have been fine for 12years, but were I to do it again, would likely choose butyl rubber as it lasts longer although it may be more prone to creeping. clean the mating surface with acetone to degrease. If you chose one of the liquid calks (Sikka 291, LifeCalk, etc.) you will mask both the bed and the base with tape, then tighten only until you get some squeeze out all around the edges. Let it cure for a week or more at that step, then tighten from the bottom (nut side) while your partner holds the screw driver to prevent the screw from turning. Don't allow the screw to turn as it will break the sealant and allow the water a path to enter. If you used butyl rubber, you can tighten more the first time but still need to re-tighten after a week or two as it will creep out and settle.
While you are at it, it may be a good time to replace your life lines as well since they will be off.
Awesome info; thx both!! Exactly the type of detail I was looking for
I have butyl tape as bedding agent. I was planning on targeting a couple of stanchions as a toe-dip this wknd with plans on not taking the lifelines off.
I am exploring replacing the plastic coated lifelines with SS; I may just knock out the couple loose-ish (relative) stanchions this wkd and plan for a fall/winter project while she’s on the hard (rigging replacement and bottom paint / check projects)
Again, really appreciate the detail. I can already tell its saved me a few trips to the store this wknd!
Just to add my two cents worth. It can be done by one person with a pair of vice grips. I have rebedded every piece of hardware that thru bolts to the deck and cabin top by my self. Use butyl rubber not caulk. It will last for ever, never hardens and can be remove and cleaned easily if required. There are many articles on it on this forum and other places.
