Thoughts on replacing/adding backing plates on typhoon?

[PortTack]

Hello,

What is the general consensus for the best method and material for adding backing plates for stays and the main hardware on a typhoon? The boat I'm looking at had the starboard stay pull free and downed the mast a year or two back, and the PO patched it all and added a stainless steel backing plate for the starboard side. It doesn't look like the port, forward, or backstay have been altered, so reinforcing these is likely to be one of my first projects on the boat, as well as swapping out the 4" access port to the aft deck for a larger 8" port so I can get access to all the fittings below. From the couple of pictures I snapped when looking at the boat, it looks like the bolts below the engine bracket are pretty corroded, and I can't see any backing plate for the back stay.

Reading online, I see people swear by G10, and others say it should really be stainless. Any thoughts? If one or the other, what thickness and size would you recommend? Finally, where does one order backing plates in either G10 or stainless, or do I need a machine shop to custom fabricate each?

Thanks!

[mgphl52]

For odd materials, McMaster-Carr has always been my go to.

[Bill Goldsmith]

G10 is easier to work with for the average boat owner, as you can use general woodworking tools (although carbide saw blades would be a good idea). I used G10 for all my winch backing plates as well as my seacock backing plates and works well especially if epoxied in place. Stainless is much more difficult to work with.

[Ben Miller]

It's not comfortable, but depending on your height/weight, it's not impossible to squeeze through the quarter berths into the stern compartment. I'm 5'10" 165 lbs and I can just barely do it. So if you're in the vicinity of that size, you might give it a try before you go cutting bigger holes into your boat.

[PortTack]

G10 is easier to work with for the average boat owner, as you can use general woodworking tools (although carbide saw blades would be a good idea). I used G10 for all my winch backing plates as well as my seacock backing plates and works well especially if epoxied in place. Stainless is much more difficult to work with.

Thanks for your feedback! Structurally G10 is considered solid enough for something like backing plates for stays? It would be nice if I could get a couple square feet and just cut appropriate sized plates and drill holes myself!

I'm 5'11'' and 185lbs, so *maybe* I'd fit down there, but I can't imagine it being a very conducive working environment, especially trying to epoxy or hold nuts and washers in place... My hope is that a larger inspection port won't seem too out of place since there's one there already, and I could toss fenders or a spare line or two back there if needed

[mgphl52]

The link in my prior reply will take you directly to the page for G10 at McMaster-Carr...

[Ben Miller]

I'm 5'11'' and 185lbs, so *maybe* I'd fit down there, but I can't imagine it being a very conducive working environment

Yeah, that would be tough! It's not going to be an easy job either way, but at least you'll only have to do it once.

[s2sailorlis]

Best price I found for G10 was on eBay. G10 will eat up your blades quickly. Also the dust generated is not good for your health so wear a mask.

Make sure all corners are rounded so as not to create any pinch points that may cause other issues.

Stainless is very difficult to work with. For my last boat I had some stainless plates fabricated. I actually purchased stock stainless online, then went to a local machine shop where for $20 he plasma drilled a series of holes.

[PortTack]

Great tip, thank you! I had read some people suggest buttering the G10 with some thickened epoxy before setting to help alleviate any pressure points from the G10 plates' corners digging into the fiberglass.

[tjr818]

I'm 5'11'' and 185lbs, so *maybe* I'd fit down there, but I can't imagine it being a very conducive working environment

Yeah, that would be tough! It's not going to be an easy job either way, but at least you'll only have to do it once.

Don't venture into the compartment without a "lifeguard" or at least a cellphone to call for help once you find yourself stuck in there.

[s2sailorlis]

I just rounded the edges and corners with a belt sander. Took no time at all. No need to butter up anything.

Great tip, thank you! I had read some people suggest buttering the G10 with some thickened epoxy before setting to help alleviate any pressure points from the G10 plates' corners digging into the fiberglass.

[Steve Laume]

Raven has mostly aluminum backing plates, that came from the factory. They are much better than the mild steel used in earlier boats. I have made up some new backing plates for a few items that I added over the years and it is pretty easy to work with. I recently bought some G10 for a couple of projects and I really like the stuff. It cuts nicely with a band saw and sands easy with a stationary machine. It glows red when cutting it with a carbide blade on the table saw so I'm not sure it is great for the blade. It is easy to drill and you can tap the stuff to hold fasteners.

I bought mine at Defender, just because I was there and they had it.

I do like to butter the back side... Wait a minute, that didn't sound right. I bed it in with epoxy to give it a nice even contact surface and spread the load over the entire area, Steve.

[gates_cliff]

Don't venture into the compartment without a "lifeguard" or at least a cellphone to call for help once you find yourself stuck in there.[/quote]


This is a GREAT post! When I first bought my CD 27, I was working in the port cockpit locker - replace fuel tank and reglassed the bulk head surrounding it. The boat was out of the water and i was working weekends and evenings. I had been down in the locker for close to an hour and had twisted myself this way and that and had myself wedged in. When I started to get out I was stuck! There was nobody around and had no cell phone. Have to say I experienced some moments of concern. Eventually I was able to "uncorkscrew" my way out, after about 10 minutes!

[PortTack]

Yikes! Yeah, I think I'm just going to assume I can't fit in there rather than try, and opt for installing a slightly larger inspection port. Thanks for all the advice! I think I'll go with the G10.