Bermuda again...Orion feels home

[Jim Walsh]

A few days ago another Cape Dory arrived here. I stopped to say hello and met Doug and Salli Whitman on Olive Oyl, a CD30 cutter, homeported in Charlottesville, Virginia. We chatted for a few minutes and I was invited aboard to see some of the many modifications which have been made. One of the more obvious was full length bulwarks. Doug had removed the original teak toerails, fiberglassed over the hull to deck joint, and added substantial bulwarks supported by custom stainless brackets. He also converted Olive Oyl from the original Edson worm gear steering wheel to a tiller. He is obviously a very talented and motivated owner.
I was told they had spent a season in the Bahamas. On this cruise they had left their home port and sailed to Bermuda as a waypoint on their way to the Azores before ultimately heading to Britain or Ireland to be hauled for the winter.
The weather has been unsettled here but this is a photo I snapped while Doug and Salli were launching their dinghy.

The camera makes it appear very crowded and close to shore. This is not the case at all, just the perspective of the camera lens.

[John Stone]

Nice! And hank-on sails to boot! I already love ‘em and I haven’t even met them yet!

Thanks Jim.

[Jim Walsh]

Nice! And hank-on sails to boot! I already love ‘em and I haven’t even met them yet!

Thanks Jim.

Doug also made the dodger himself. Not sure about the sail covers.

[Pembquist]

Any idea what kind of dinghy that is they are fiddling with? It looks foldable.

[barfwinkle]

looks like a portaboat.

Fair winds

[Jim Walsh]

The Marion to Bermuda race is scheduled to start today. I’ll be stationed at Gates Fort awaiting the arrival of Tiara. If anyone tries to sneak in ahead Captain John Ring and the crew of Tiara I’ll be forced to act with extreme prejudice.

[Steve Laume]

Spirit of Bermuda is roaring out of the start. She may well be the first boat to finish. I don't beleive firing on her would be well received on that island.

Sure looks like a beautiful day in paradise, Steve.

[gates_cliff]

Was recently in Beaufort, NC picking up a boat for delivery to the Chesapeake. Saw another boat at the dock, not a Cape Dory, that had red Sunbrella on every piece of wood on the boat, including rub rails, coaming, etc. assume the owner was very talented and/or had lots of time on his/her hands.

[Cathy Monaghan]

Jim,

The majority of the boats participating in the Marion-Bermuda Race ended the race in Hamilton, only a few made their way into St. George, so it shouldn't get too crowded in there -- yet.

The Bermuda 1-2 begins tomorrow, June 20th, and they will be ending the first leg of their race in St. George.

-Cathy

[Jim Walsh]

Jim,

The majority of the boats participating in the Marion-Bermuda Race ended the race in Hamilton, only a few made their way into St. George, so it shouldn't get too crowded in there -- yet.

The Bermuda 1-2 begins tomorrow, June 20th, and they will be ending the first leg of their race in St. George.

-Cathy

https://share.garmin.com/svtiara

I’ve been keeping track of John Ring and the crew of Tiara since the start of the Marion to Bermuda. Exciting stuff.
The anchorage has very few cruisers. Most have already passed through on their way to the Azores and points east.

[Jim Walsh]

2019 Bermuda trip
Here are notes taken directly from my log which some may find interesting. Please note that SOG is the speed over the ground or GPS speed which can vary greatly from the speed through the water.

5/7 Tuesday
After weeks of rainy weather I finally had a forecast for 2 to 3 days of decent weather. I like to start a passage under favorable conditions and take the rest as it comes. I do not use a routing service. I left my slip at 1:30 pm with a couple friends seeing me off. The wind was on the nose once I cleared the harbor breakwater but I had a favorable tide to get me through The Race and into Block Island Sound. Once outside the race the wind was on my starboard bow, I raised the full main, full staysail, and full yankee. The engine was shut down, the wind was now 17 knots and my speed was 6 knots. Not bad for a heavily laden 31 footer. I engaged the Monitor wind vane and took a final look to ensure my sheets and control lines were all lead fair. Between Endeavor shoal and Montauk the wind dipped to 12.5 knots but my speed only dropped to 5.7 knots. Nothing but ocean ahead for hundreds of miles on my current SE course. Life is good.

7:15pm the wind started clocking me and faded away to 5 knots. Oh joy.....

9:30pm the wind died away to nothing. I furled the headsails and left the main up. I started the engine, set the autopilot for Kitchen Shoals, no sense bobbing around waiting for the wind when the forecast still insisted I should have 15 knots....perhaps it’s just beyond the horizon.

10:45pm, still under power in zero wind.....




5/8 Wednesday
I’ve had my alarm set for 20 minute intervals so I can get some rest. Numerous ships and trawlers in the area, a heavy fog has developed and the wind is dead calm.

6:00am still fog and no wind but two whales have decided to check me out. I thanked them for keeping a safe distance.

8:30am no improvement, running at 1,800 RPM and doing 5.5 knots...oh well, this is why I have an auxiliary.

9:30am, two sharks on the surface 50 yards away. The water is so calm their dorsal fins are leaving a wake on the surface....decent size...8 to 10 feet.

10:00am the wind returned! Wind speed 9 tp 11.5 knots from the ENE to E. Engine shut down, under full sail! Doing 5 to 6 knots SOG, great.

11:30am, just put a reef in the main, wind speed 15 to 17 knots.

Noon position 39*54’N 70*35’W wind speed 12.5E, 5.5-6.2SOG, course 160-170M
Cloudy skies with some sun, long rollers with some whitecaps.

4:30pm, had lasagna for supper, an apple, and jellybeans.

5:30pm east wind 15+knots, seas very rolly, sky overcast, heading 140M.
Really appreciate having some wind after that long spell under power! Hope to get some real sleep tonight now that I’m south of the trawlers and coastal shipping. Only saw one sailboat today headed north, 6 miles east of me.

7:30pm east wind 13knots, 4.9SOG, course 150M

[Jim Walsh]

5/9 Thursday
5:45am 38*47’N 69*29’W East wind 15-17 knots, 5-6 knot SOG, course 140M
Skies clear, saw stars for the first time at 1:30am, seas rally and choppy 3 to 6 feet.

Noon position 38*22’N 69*15’W east wind 15-17knots, 5-6 SOG, course 150-160M
Slightly less choppy on top of the rollers, made sail and adjustments.

7:30pm 37*59’N 68*39W, east wind 16-19knots, 6 SOG, course 150M
Just made sail and course adjustments, let the main out slightly and reefed the yankee slightly. Adjusted the Monitor to keep me about 150M.
Skies still very clear, big rollers with very choppy 4 foot seas on top. The motion isn’t bad but the wind is against the seas.....I’m pouring on the mileage so it’s all good.
Only occasional spray, hoping for more of the same wind direction and speed.
Had Spam, peas, and an apple for supper....one pot meal that doesn’t try to launch itself onto the floor.....

5/10 Friday
4:30am 37*47’N 67*51W ESE wind 10-13, 4 SOG, course 150-180M
Wind is variable, hope it stays but settles down, course from 134-200M.
Got up every hour to check things out. Only saw 4 ships last night. They seem to avoid my AIS signal (I now have a class B transponder) which is great. No close calls.

6:00am, SE wind 4-5 knots, 3 SOG, seems like early morning winds, hope so, need steady winds for steady progress.....

6:20 am, the wind clocked me and just fell off....the rollers spun me around, I was headed north! A very light wind filled back in so I tacked back to a course of 150-170M. Perhaps it will now stay steady, skies sunny with some clouds, still quite cool.

7:00am, the wind just clocked me again and left me in irons......a bit of breeze has returned and seems more steady......course is 170M....or so.

7:05am, a 12 knot breeze has just filled in! Course 150-160M. Hoo Haa!

7:25am, the wind is still flukey, I’ll let it play out, headed SW at times.....grrrr

Noon position 37*30’N 67*49’W, SE wind 10-11 knots, speed 4.5 through the water but only 2.8SOG, course 210M
Delightful day, big rollers with a 2 foot chop, noticeably warmer with cobalt seas, wind from the southeast so I’m currently on a tack back to the rhumbline. Could always use a little more wind, not from SE, but it’s hard to complain about these conditions.

2:10pm 37*25’N 67*54’W, SW wind 10-11, speed 4.6 water...3.6SOG, course 250-270M
The Gulf Stream is slowing me by at least a knot but the weather is fantastic. Still about 20nm east of the rhumbline. I’ll tack about 6:00pm.

3:10pm, had a tuna sandwich on jalapeño bread, fantastic.
Ended up tacking, starboard tack, course is now 120M (was 340M). At least this is close to SE. south wind 9.5, 5.8-6.2SOG, vast improvement.

11:00pm 37*17N 67*41’W wind south 20, 5SOG, course 135-140M
Just got below and I’m now back on a starboard tack. A combination of wind/waves/rollers spun my bow into the wind. The main and staysail we’re pulling but the yankee was sheeted to windward....apparently someone wanted me to heave to......
All set now, I partially reefed the yankee and reset the Monitor. If the wind cooperates I’m all set for the night....

[Jim Walsh]

5/11 Saturday
Corkscrewing all night long, short disturbed seas constantly slapping the hull, loudly, very uncomfortable. Constant hum in the rigging, loud hum, I’ll just keep pushing hard to put the miles on. Stars and moon all night, some whispy clouds.

Noon position, 36*39’N 67*13’W, wind SW 21, speed 4 water 5.5SOG, course 175M
Very messy seas, 5-7 feet on the rollers, lots of wind driven spray, whitecaps, real “Gulf Stream Buster”. Currently under main with one reef, full staysail, yankee fully furled. (The versatility of the cutter rig under these conditions is invaluable, you can keep trying different sail combinations until you get one which is ideal. I had tried reefing and fully furling the staysail and yankee until I found which combinations provided the most drive and comfort for the prevailing sea state and wind strength. Having a roller furling staysail and yankee allowed the crew (me!) to alter the sails easily from the safety of the cockpit. I’m a big fan of the crew (me!) being able to do this without being on the foredeck in these conditions.)

6:00pm 36*12’N 67*3’W wind SW23, 4.5-5.8SOG course 180M
Seas large and lumpy, less whitecaps than earlier, I put a second reef in the main and I put a small reef in the staysail, both pulling better now.
Feels markedly warmer now. Would like Dinty Moore stew for supper but the seas are so lumpy I don’t know if I feel like taking a chance with a mess. With the sails shortened and properly trimmed I’m taking far less spray. Also with the second reef in the main I can just play with the headsails as needed. The mainsail track slides are buzzing in the gusts.....sounds like cicadas.....
The Dinty More stew was great and nothing was spilled.

5/12 Sunday
6:30am 35*34’N 66*28’W, wind SW 16, speed 4.6 water 6SOG, course 170
Sunny with some clouds, seas 6 feet but less choppy than yesterday. Main with two reefs and full staysail, nearly no spray and hull not being slapped constantly. Could use a couple days just like this!

9:00am had to anjust course to 175M, main and staysail adjusted. Saw my first two tropicbirds just 25 feet from the masthead, portside aft. Woo Hoo!

Noon position 35*15’N 66*08’W, wind SW 20, Speed 4.8SOG, course 175-183M
Occasional whitecaps, seas 6 foot plus, have to hold on every moment but more comfortable than yesterday. Sun with hazy clouds. Now less than 200nm from Bermuda, hope the weather stays reasonable till arrival. If the wind slacks off this evening I’ll furl the staysail and set the yankee in an effort to claw to windward a bit. Not doing bad now but close to the time for a changeover.

12:20pm, complete cloud cover, wind speed up to 25 knots, seas increasing, lots of solid spray.

8:30pm 34*51’N 65*51’W, very uncomfortable chop, large seas, strong gusts.

10:30pm 34*45’N 65*48’W, course 180M, very uncomfortable chop

[Jim Walsh]

5/13 Monday
4:00am, 34*28’N 65*43’W, wind WNW25+ knots, 4 SOG, course 200M
A little less intense, complete overcast, very rolly seas

6:00am, 34*22’N 65*42’W, wind still 25+ knots, seas 8+ feet, staysail and double reefed main, horrible sea state, lots of spray flying and green water

11:00am moderated very slightly. Went forward to check anchor lashing, soaked from head to toe. Wind 23+ knots, seas 6+ feet and very confused. Furled the staysail and set a reefed yankee. Went below and took a shower. Feels great.

Noon position, 34*04’N 65*35’W, wind WSW 24+ knots, 5 SOG, course 180M
7 foot confused seas with plenty of whitecaps.

5:00pm, made corned beef hash and string beans. Another one pot meal that stays in the pot when the boat is trying to eject it.

7:00pm, can actually see the sun through the clouds........
Conditions remained the same throughout the night but making steady progress to the island.

5/14 Tuesday
5:30am strong squall.....just rode it out, course still 280M, distance to Kitchen Shoal 39nm.

6:00am, 32*58’N 64*47’W, wind W 27+ with frequent squalls, 5 SOG, course 160M
36 nm to Kitchen Shoal

6:30 am.....more squalls.....very determined to fight me to the end.....apparently.

8:30am, wind 20+ knots, course 175-180M, 4 SOG
heavy clouds with the sun poking through occasionally, seas 6+ feet on top of the rollers, VERY SLOPPY SEAS, need to get closer, perhaps sail past and tack back in.....changed clock to local time

11:00am, 23nm from Kitchen Shoal.

1:00pm, misery.......wind and seas are atrocious, 17nm to go....

2:00pm, still 15.5nm off Kitchen Shoal, winds gusting over 30 knots now, this can’t persist, just a small patch of the yankee and the double reefed main, comfortable now, will just keep tacking toward the island and hope for a lull....rain now....

2:30pm, 15nm to go

3:30pm, will see rapid improvement per Bermuda radio.....

4:30pm, winds slacked off....double reefed main and FULL yankee....headed in on port tack

7:30pm, requested permission from Bermuda Radio to enter the cut into St. George’s. I was thanked for completing the pre-arrival form...they had all my information on file and merely asked if I had paper charts on hand and needed any guidance for the reef and harbor transit to Customs.

8:00pm, tied up at the Customs dock in a flat calm.

9:00pm, dropped the anchor in Powder Hole!
I keep reaching for the handholds in a boat which is motionless for the first time in a week.

This passage took seven days and six hours. Preparation, maintenance, and a dose of luck resulted in no breakdowns or equipment failures. For this, the Captain is always thankful.

[Capt Hook]

Jim, very interesting.
You mentioned some of your meals. Could you expand on your provisions and what some of your other daily meals were.
Curious what your menu looks like for a week at sea.