bent turnbuckle

Megunticook · Post by **Megunticook** » May 21st, '19, 21:25

I had a little wrinkle stepping the mast today which I worked through and resolved, but in the process apparently something bent the turnbuckle on an upper shroud (the threaded part swaged to the wire). All I can think is I inadvertently stepped on it while it was on deck, but I'm not really sure what happened.

Am I correct in assuming this shroud needs to be replaced immediately? No ands, ifs, or buts?

mgphl52 · Post by **mgphl52** » May 22nd, '19, 08:22

Instead of replacing the whole shroud, you can also repair what you have with a Sta-Lock (or similar) fitting.

bottomscraper · Post by **bottomscraper** » May 22nd, '19, 08:40

Sta-Lok has some extra long studs if you need some extra length when you cut off the damaged swaged end.

https://www.stalok.com/product/sta-lok-long-stud-inch

Norseman also has extra long studs.

I believe Hayn has extenders for their brand of fittings.

They aren't cheap but less expensive that replacing the entire wire and you can probably do it with the rig up.

Installing mechanical terminals is not that difficult and doesn't require any special tools:

http://www.sailmahalo.com/picture_colle ... ngStaloks/

Megunticook · Post by **Megunticook** » May 22nd, '19, 09:45

Thanks for the tips--would love to fix this without unstepping the mast. So you just cut the shroud above the swaged part and then fasten a new fitting on the wire?

bottomscraper · Post by **bottomscraper** » May 22nd, '19, 21:34

Megunticook wrote:Thanks for the tips--would love to fix this without unstepping the mast. So you just cut the shroud above the swaged part and then fasten a new fitting on the wire?

Yes but you will want to measure carefully, you want the overall length to be the same. Measure twice, cut once! Don't cut anything until you have the new fitting in hand so you can measure correctly.

Megunticook · Post by **Megunticook** » May 23rd, '19, 18:52

Unfortunately the long stud 5/32 Sta-lok is not available in the 1/4" thread size--so I had to get the standard. By my calculations I'll lose a bit over 2 inches in length, so I ordered a couple Schaefer toggles that should get me the extension I need.

As far as cutting the wire, I gather you want a nice clean straight cut. What's the best tool for this? I thought maybe a Dremel with a cutoff wheel might do a neat job...

So I spoke with 4 different riggers about this--one told me I could just keep using the damaged stud, but the other three were adamant that it was weakened and prone to failure. Interestingly the last guy I spoke to said the Sta-loks were just as strong as the swaged fittings.

bottomscraper · Post by **bottomscraper** » May 24th, '19, 15:18

Megunticook wrote:Unfortunately the long stud 5/32 Sta-lok is not available in the 1/4" thread size--so I had to get the standard. By my calculations I'll lose a bit over 2 inches in length, so I ordered a couple Schaefer toggles that should get me the extension I need.

As far as cutting the wire, I gather you want a nice clean straight cut. What's the best tool for this? I thought maybe a Dremel with a cutoff wheel might do a neat job...

So I spoke with 4 different riggers about this--one told me I could just keep using the damaged stud, but the other three were adamant that it was weakened and prone to failure. Interestingly the last guy I spoke to said the Sta-loks were just as strong as the swaged fittings.

I will withhold my comments about the so called "rigger" who said to keep using it.

Yes a nice clean cut is important. A cutoff wheel with Dremel might be preferable to a hacksaw for small wire. I personally haven't done any wire smaller than 1/4" wire so I have always used a hacksaw. In the tests that I have seen Sta-Lok fitting strength exceeds that of the wire. Well done swage fittings are fine but there are lots of badly done swage fittings out there. The nice thing about Sta-Lok fittings is you get a good chance to inspect it while doing the assembly. Many people (myself included) prefer Sta-Lok fittings over swaged. All of the standing rigging on Mahalo is Sta-Loks except the backstay insulators which are Hi-Mod (Hayn) mechanical terminals.

Megunticook · Post by **Megunticook** » May 25th, '19, 05:37

Megunticook wrote:I will withhold my comments about the so called "rigger" who said to keep using it.

Believe it or not it was the outfit you have listed on your website. He asked me to send a picture, which I did, and then several days later called me back and left a message. I'll check in with him next week but based on what he said in our initial phone conversation I'm a little skeptical.

Megunticook · Post by **Megunticook** » Jun 2nd, '19, 09:58

I installed the Sta-lok yesterday. Here's the result:

I followed the instructions that came with the fitting and cinched it down by hand with wrenches as tight as I could by hand using relatively short wrenches. There are about two threads still exposed--that normal? Noticed on the Sta-lok website that it says it doesn't need to be super tight. Used blue threadlocker.

I didn't fill it with sealant first--should I redo it? It's going to be in service just through October, at which point I'll likely replace the whole shroud.

Noticed in a video I watched last night that some people like to unscrew the assembly and inspect it before final assembly. I didn't do that--just cinched it up. Any harm in unscrewing it to have a look? I would put fresh threadlocker on it before final assembly.

Maybe I should just not worry and leave it alone.

SVFayaway · Post by **SVFayaway** » Jun 2nd, '19, 11:16

I talked to Sta-Lock a few years ago when I did the rigging on my old Pearson Wanderer and they told me in no uncertain terms that neither Loctite nor sealant was necessary. My fittings had tef-gel applied to the threads, which is why I called them, since that would preclude the use of Loctite.

Megunticook · Post by **Megunticook** » Jun 2nd, '19, 11:31

SVFayaway wrote:I talked to Sta-Lock a few years ago when I did the rigging on my old Pearson Wanderer and they told me in no uncertain terms that neither Loctite nor sealant was necessary.

Odd...the package mine came in had a sticker on it saying Loctite must be used. Didn't say anything about sealant.

John Stone · Post by **John Stone** » Jun 2nd, '19, 15:30

I believe Brian Toss recommends sealant such as 3M 4000 to be used so salt water can’t penetrate into the compression fitting.

SPARTALK used to be our go to source to ask rigger questions such as these but it was shut down due to hackers. However, I believe the archive is still available. If you do a google search and add spartalk I bet you can find some very good info there on this issue.

bottomscraper · Post by **bottomscraper** » Jun 2nd, '19, 19:10

Stainless on stainless has a tendency to galling. Locktite helps prevent this but also helps keep the fitting from coming loose. The sealant prevents water intrusion. Personally unless your plan is to replace the wire next season, I would get some sealant in there as soon as possible. I believe Brion Toss currently recommends 3M 4000 UV sealant.

https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/product ... 22628.html

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