In late December I began the disassembly. The upper boards came off pretty easily. I removed the bungs by drilling a 1/16 in hole then screwing in a drywall screw. It was less damaging to scrape the varnish before removing the bung. All but one bung came out perfectly with no damage to the surrounding teak. A couple required some work with a pen knife to remove all the wood. As with most failed adhesives, half was totally failed and the other half gripped tenaciously. The glass above the galley that they attach to was pretty ugly: nearly no resin and a lot of loose glass fibers. I think it had been done after the teak was installed since the resin was pretty bonded to the teak.
Then it got pretty cold and I didn't get back to the boat until today. My plan had been to only do the upper boards that were leaking but after seeing the failed adhesive (maybe something like Sikaflex) I decided to replace the vertical pieces (where the drop boards go) and the sill. This requires removing the grab handles as well. Nearly none of these bungs cooperated, especially the ones outside
.The grab handles were especially troublesome because I didn't understand how they attached. On my boat they are screwed only to the teak with four wood screws each. The teak is attached to other teak which it attached to the fiberglass. I never had a problem with them being suspect but I thought they might be through bolted to glass so something to look out for. Also, the bungs were not square to the top of the handles. The holes and screws were roughly parallel to the angle that the base of the handle makes. You really need to drill the first hole following this angle or the bung removal will tear out a lot of material if it works at all.
But, even better you don't really need to remove the handle bungs at all, or the screws that attach the rabbeted pieces to the pieces that mount the handles. Which is too bad because these bungs are larger than all the other ones on the boat. There did appear to be some vinyl/epoxy resin on the port side that adhered to the teak but I'm pretty sure you could pry that off. The starboard side sealant failed with the lightest touch.
All the pieces (except the sill where I stripped a screw) are cleaned up at home and I'll install them as soon as it warms up a little more. I got Sikaflex 291 in white (for attaching to the glass) and mahogany (for attaching to each other); I think it wants ~8hours above 50F to get a decent cure. Then varnish. I think they need to be installed before varnish so I can get the bungs in.
Jeff
