CD Typhoon Refinish Wood

[ty3]

I'm going to refinish the wood on my recently purchased CD Typhoon this winter and have couple questions:

1. If I use a heat gun for toe rails and coamings what it the best way to protect the deck from the heat?
2. Related to above, what are the pros and cons to removing the wood, i.e. toe rails and coamings?
3. Any suggestions as to the finish to use are also welcomed.

Thanks for your expert opinions! I'm a rookie at this --

Ty3

[sloopjohnl]

i have removed my wood four times in 28 years. simple to do except for the toerails and offers rebedding the wood each time. i varnish all but the toerails including the tiller, cleat blocks, and tiller/rudder shaft block. initially my toerails were unfinished so they just got a good cleaning and sanding before finishing. i use cetol for the toerails which simply requires a good cleaning with soap and water and reapplication of two coats when needed.

[Megunticook]

I can only address your last question, as when I bought my typhoon senior the varnish was peeling off and I just sanded the remainder off with the wood in place.

I use raw linseed oil to refinish. To my eye it's a good look and very practical--the wood doesn't look showroom new but has a nice dark amber color like clover honey. Water just beads on the surface and can't penetrate. The grain of the wood is totally visible and feels great to the hand. At the end of the season I just lightly sand everything, wash, let dry thoroughly, and apply another coat or two of oil. Pretty simple, never have to worry about it peeling or removing all the old finish before reapplying. It's a more subtle look, a little "working boat," but that's just fine with me--I try to keep all the fiberglass clean, polished, and waxed, so the overall effect is a well-cared for boat. But definitely not the look you see in the magazines.

If you do go this route, having the oil warm or doing it on a hot sunny day helps with the penetration.

[tjr818]

I use raw linseed oil to refinish. To my eye it's a good look and very practical--the wood doesn't look showroom new but has a nice dark amber color like clover honey. Water just beads on the surface and can't penetrate.

The M14 that I was issued in the Army was finished that way and it was 15 years old when I got it. The M14 was handled often and that kept it nice, I would worry about the rub rails getting sticky and picking up dirt, have you had any problem with that?

[Megunticook]

I haven't noticed that being a problem. The linseed oil does not leave the wood "sticky"--well, maybe for a few days after finishing it was a little tacky in places, but eventually it absorbs fully and the wood surface is dry.

Personally I've always preferred finishing wood with penetrating oils that seal all the wood pores to keep out moisture but don't leave a film on the surface of the wood.

I've finished wood firearm components this way as well (actually I use a combo of raw linseed and beeswax, heated until warm), and they look and feel so much nicer than the factory finishes.

[John Stone]

Protect the deck with a a layer of two of 3m 233 tape. Don’t keep the heat gun on the wood any longer than needed. Use a pull scraper. Your choice of finish. As for me, a toe rail gets a lot of abuse. I’d leave it bare. I love varnish ... but only in places I can maintain.

[Dick Villamil]

For the first treatment of the coamings and seat battens, hardware blocks etc. I would remove the wood then sand. Make sure that you caulk before reinstalling the wood. Apply a rubbing of acetone to remove the teak oils to allow better penetration of the Cetol light then apply 3 coats of Cetol Light (not as orange as Cetol). I did that to my typhoon 12 years ago and all it needs is cleaning, light sanding of the dings and then a yearly coat of Cetol Light. I removed the toe rails only to repair them then did the same. In your case leave the toe and rub rails on, use a heat gun on low heat after protecting the deck with the tape and there should be no problem. Scrape gently and the previus finish should come off easily. Yearly spring touchup or recoating helps a lot. Just make sure to touch us dings as soon as they form. Leaving teak bare will look pretty salty but I prefer the finished look (and so do the many admirers of the Ty boat at the dock and when under sail!

[ty3]

Thanks so much for your replies -- this message board is the best resource! So much appreciate the support from other CD owners -- quite a SUPPORTIVE group. Hopefully some day I'll be able to provide like support.

ty3