I need to replace my Cutlass bearing on my CD 36 this fall. Can anyone tell me what I'm likely to find in there? I have about 4" of rubber hose coming out of the back of the bilge with the stuffing box on the end. There is about an inch of shaft before the coupling. Any drawings or pictures would be appreciated. Thanks
Russ
Cutlass bearing CD 36
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Maine_Buzzard
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Dec 22nd, '10, 21:15
- Location: Feet Dry, Olympia, WA
Re: Cutlass bearing CD 36
Hi Russ,
You will absolutely need to pull the shaft, which requires removing the flange that connects the shaft to the transmission output flange. The prop may need to be pulled, 3 blade ones never clear the rudder, sometimes a 2 blade can be sqweeked by.
Three main items to be addressed- Replacing the cutless, evaluating and usually replacing the soft flex hose, and repacking or replacing the stuffing box.
The cutless has likely setscrews buried in firm putty, or a plate with bolts holding it in. The tube that holds the cutless and runs forward to hold the flex hose is the shaft log, and is usually one solid piece imbedded in the hull during assembly.
Look at the cutless and shaft where it exits the boat. Any 7/16” bolt heads above and below the shaft? If so, remove the shaft and pull those bolts, remove the retaining plate and proceed to swear like a destitute pirate to remove the cutless.
No bolts? Dig into the fairing compound. See if any screws are present 1/2” forward of the aft end of the cutless. Perhaps 2 are there. If so, remove them and swear like a destitute pirate on shore.
So the cutless will not slide out? The brave will take a deep breath, and use a coarse 24 T hacksaw blade to split the cutless. It may take two cuts on opposite sides. The foolish/brave will take a Sawzall and using a metal blade, cut NEARLY through the bronze sleeve, and then finish with the hacksaw blade held in a rag to make the thinnest of metal remaining... grab one lip of the cutless and roll it in to collapse it, give a twist, and pull it out. Stop swearing like a pirate on shore with no rum, the hard part is all over.
Please replace the soft flex hose, it’s likely 30 years old. Use the correct stuffing box hose, not radiator or exhaust hose, the right stuff has twice the wall thickness and is designed to stand up to radial torsion from the stuffing box friction. Strong personal preference here for the T bolt band clamps, two at each fitting, and purchased only at a real marine outlet.
Depending on your wallet and religious preferences, repack the stuffing box or replace with a dripless.
Look at Maine Sail’s superb series on these topics, they are in
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_a_cutlass
There is plenty more here I am skipping. You can evaluate the prop shaft for wear, you will want to re-align the engine and shaft with the new cutless, and other repairs usually cascade... Plan on a quarter to half a B.U. (Current exchange rate is still 1 B.U. = $1000, the recent plunge in Bitcoin has strangely not effected the B.U. markets yet.)
Cheers!
You will absolutely need to pull the shaft, which requires removing the flange that connects the shaft to the transmission output flange. The prop may need to be pulled, 3 blade ones never clear the rudder, sometimes a 2 blade can be sqweeked by.
Three main items to be addressed- Replacing the cutless, evaluating and usually replacing the soft flex hose, and repacking or replacing the stuffing box.
The cutless has likely setscrews buried in firm putty, or a plate with bolts holding it in. The tube that holds the cutless and runs forward to hold the flex hose is the shaft log, and is usually one solid piece imbedded in the hull during assembly.
Look at the cutless and shaft where it exits the boat. Any 7/16” bolt heads above and below the shaft? If so, remove the shaft and pull those bolts, remove the retaining plate and proceed to swear like a destitute pirate to remove the cutless.
No bolts? Dig into the fairing compound. See if any screws are present 1/2” forward of the aft end of the cutless. Perhaps 2 are there. If so, remove them and swear like a destitute pirate on shore.
So the cutless will not slide out? The brave will take a deep breath, and use a coarse 24 T hacksaw blade to split the cutless. It may take two cuts on opposite sides. The foolish/brave will take a Sawzall and using a metal blade, cut NEARLY through the bronze sleeve, and then finish with the hacksaw blade held in a rag to make the thinnest of metal remaining... grab one lip of the cutless and roll it in to collapse it, give a twist, and pull it out. Stop swearing like a pirate on shore with no rum, the hard part is all over.
Please replace the soft flex hose, it’s likely 30 years old. Use the correct stuffing box hose, not radiator or exhaust hose, the right stuff has twice the wall thickness and is designed to stand up to radial torsion from the stuffing box friction. Strong personal preference here for the T bolt band clamps, two at each fitting, and purchased only at a real marine outlet.
Depending on your wallet and religious preferences, repack the stuffing box or replace with a dripless.
Look at Maine Sail’s superb series on these topics, they are in
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_a_cutlass
There is plenty more here I am skipping. You can evaluate the prop shaft for wear, you will want to re-align the engine and shaft with the new cutless, and other repairs usually cascade... Plan on a quarter to half a B.U. (Current exchange rate is still 1 B.U. = $1000, the recent plunge in Bitcoin has strangely not effected the B.U. markets yet.)
Cheers!
Re: Cutlass bearing CD 36
What do you know about the hidden hose clamps? I have heard there are clamps that you can't see. Is this true? I appreciate your help Thanks
Russ
Russ
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JD-MDR
- Posts: 892
- Joined: Feb 8th, '17, 14:23
- Location: s/v "Leoma" 1977 CD 30K #46 San Francisco CA
Re: Cutlass bearing CD 36
Mine was a nightmare. . I replaced the shaft and bearing but when we launched it leaked so bad we couldldn't figure out where it came from. Turns out the shaft log fell apart. Others on the forum advised me that it's a poor design and I was lucky it happened at the yard and not out in the ocean. I had to pull the engine and replace the shaft log. I think you can find some discussion on my "Leoma" Post. I don't know how to put the link. I think its under launch failure
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WDM3579
MMSI 368198510
MMSI 368198510
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Maine_Buzzard
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Dec 22nd, '10, 21:15
- Location: Feet Dry, Olympia, WA
Re: Cutlass bearing CD 36
Clamps on the flex hose should not be hidden, but a sloppy owner or tech might cover a leaky fitting with sealant. Perhaps sombody with a boat like JD’s where they just buttered up the end of the boat.
I believe this was a horror story from one owner that has lived on... A defect this bad will turn up in a survey, and I’d walk away from the boat.
Look at the aft end of the stuffing box hose. Do you see hose clamps and the actual end of the hose? Good to go.
I had the chance to X-ray the hull and rudder on my CD30. Found all sorts of screws buried in the fiberglass where large areas were filled in, likely from sloppy factory practices or repairs.
I believe this was a horror story from one owner that has lived on... A defect this bad will turn up in a survey, and I’d walk away from the boat.
Look at the aft end of the stuffing box hose. Do you see hose clamps and the actual end of the hose? Good to go.
I had the chance to X-ray the hull and rudder on my CD30. Found all sorts of screws buried in the fiberglass where large areas were filled in, likely from sloppy factory practices or repairs.
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JD-MDR
- Posts: 892
- Joined: Feb 8th, '17, 14:23
- Location: s/v "Leoma" 1977 CD 30K #46 San Francisco CA
Re: Cutlass bearing CD 36
Please explain, Are you saying that I did a sloppy buttered up job? I'm not being a jerk just want to be informed. I had them replace them the shaft log with a new piece of FRP and extend it out further so I could access the packing gland easier.I'm not as experienced as some of you guys but I thought they did a good job. P.S. I bought this boat knowing that it would need to be rebuilt. I didn't pay much, And I am so glad I got her.. I did say it was a nightmare. but not really that was just a figure of speech.Maine_Buzzard wrote:Clamps on the flex hose should not be hidden, but a sloppy owner or tech might cover a leaky fitting with sealant. Perhaps sombody with a boat like JD’s where they just buttered up the end of the boat.
I believe this was a horror story from one owner that has lived on... A defect this bad will turn up in a survey, and I’d walk away from the boat.
Look at the aft end of the stuffing box hose. Do you see hose clamps and the actual end of the hose? Good to go.
I had the chance to X-ray the hull and rudder on my CD30. Found all sorts of screws buried in the fiberglass where large areas were filled in, likely from sloppy factory practices or repairs.
WDM3579
MMSI 368198510
MMSI 368198510
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Maine_Buzzard
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Dec 22nd, '10, 21:15
- Location: Feet Dry, Olympia, WA
Re: Cutlass bearing CD 36
Sorry JD, that was never a comment about the work on your boat.
There is an urban legend about CDs with the flex hose glued into the stern tube. If anyone has proof they left the Taunton factory this way, I’d love to see a photo.
The CD forum is one of the most polite and positive groups out there. I try really hard not to flame on it. I recognize that many here have limited exposure to the wild side of the Internet, and what passes for a complement in hardcore Jeep tech discussion would be unwise here.
OP had a question mid thread, I was addressing only the question.
James
There is an urban legend about CDs with the flex hose glued into the stern tube. If anyone has proof they left the Taunton factory this way, I’d love to see a photo.
The CD forum is one of the most polite and positive groups out there. I try really hard not to flame on it. I recognize that many here have limited exposure to the wild side of the Internet, and what passes for a complement in hardcore Jeep tech discussion would be unwise here.
OP had a question mid thread, I was addressing only the question.
James
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John Stone
- Posts: 3621
- Joined: Oct 6th, '08, 07:30
- Location: S/V Far Reach: CD 36 #61 www.farreachvoayges.net www.farreachvoyages.com
Re: Cutlass bearing CD 36
Russ
Below is a thread to a link from last year that Skylark posted about the prop shaft rebuild on his CD 36.
There is a good drawing and some excellent pictures. Might be useful to you. I think he sold his boat and moved on.
http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... 28&start=0
While I have not had to address the repair myself—my CD 36 does not have a shaft long/stuffing box/prop shaft—I understand it is a tough project due to limited space. Do your homework and take your time.
JD, you are a dedicated thoughtful hardworking Cape Dory owner. Any Cape Dory would be lucky to have you as her owner.
Below is a thread to a link from last year that Skylark posted about the prop shaft rebuild on his CD 36.
There is a good drawing and some excellent pictures. Might be useful to you. I think he sold his boat and moved on.
http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... 28&start=0
While I have not had to address the repair myself—my CD 36 does not have a shaft long/stuffing box/prop shaft—I understand it is a tough project due to limited space. Do your homework and take your time.
JD, you are a dedicated thoughtful hardworking Cape Dory owner. Any Cape Dory would be lucky to have you as her owner.
Re: Cutlass bearing CD 36
John, Thanks That is just what I am looking for. I plan to tackle this in a week or so when the boat comes out.
Russ
Russ