Asymetrical Spinnaker ????'s

[Gary McDonough]

Hello to all,

I ordered and just received an asymetrical spinnaker with the ATN sock for my CD30'. My questions are as follows:

I have read that many users only attach one sheet to the sail because it's hard to jibe and in most cases you're on the same tack for a good amount of time. What do most people do?

I need to affix a block somewhere at the bow for the tack line. Where do most users attach the block? To the bowsprit, pulpit, etc. Also, any help would be appreciated regarding the size or style of block, i.e. permanently mounted or removable.

What size block is appropriate for use at the cockpit cleat to feed the sheet through?

Any other words of wisdom or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Gary



garym@taxinvest.com

[len]

gary

i have a cruising spinnaker in a sock on my CD31 - the bag the whole thing is in has a line that i tie to the very front of the bowsprit as low as possible, that then connects inside to the tack of the sail - i don't have a block - i use a single sheet, quite light line, i think it is just 1/4 inch (in light air heavier line drags the sail down or collapses it) - i use a schaefer #5 series swivel block for the sheet at the cockpit it, i clip it on to the top of the permanent shet block there, i have one for each side but you could get away with one and switch it back and forth -

the sail is wonderful, people i take sailing love it, it's so dramatic and colorful - when the wind gets up a bit, the power is quite something and you have to be prepared to let the sheet go quickly - you also have to be careful to have the lines inside the sock run freely, you can get some awful tangles

i am sure you will have lots of fun with it

len



md.frel@nwh.org

[Bill]

Hi Gary

You are going to love your chute...esp on full moon sails!!!! I would like to add a question to your's if I may.

I just installed the spinnaker bail at the masthead and in the past I just tacked the chute like a HUGE gennie <B><U><I>(RPITA)</B></U></I>!!!! Now with everything led outside the headstay, do I attach the tack line to the stem head (is that the correct term?)? if so doesnt that open up quit a of chafe on the tack line (the tack line will always be on "one" side of the forestay(I know I can change it from one side to the other each time IF I can keep trace of it)??

When do you launch? I hope I launch soon (end of march)!

Bill
On the hard and very unhappy about it......
S/V Rhapsody
CD25D #148

Hello to all,

I ordered and just received an asymetrical spinnaker with the ATN sock for my CD30'. My questions are as follows:

I have read that many users only attach one sheet to the sail because it's hard to jibe and in most cases you're on the same tack for a good amount of time. What do most people do?

I need to affix a block somewhere at the bow for the tack line. Where do most users attach the block? To the bowsprit, pulpit, etc. Also, any help would be appreciated regarding the size or style of block, i.e. permanently mounted or removable.

What size block is appropriate for use at the cockpit cleat to feed the sheet through?

Any other words of wisdom or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Gary

cd25d@rhapsodysails.com

[Larry DeMers]

We use a Bierig Cruising Chute. The whole rig; chute, sock and the tack hardware are stowed in a zipered bag we rigged on the port bow, just behind the bow pulpit. This allows us to rig the chute in around 15 minutes.

I installed a 1/4 in. U-Bolt in the forward end of the bow sprit, just left of the anchor. I attach a single block to this U-Bolt, and then feed a 3/8 in. line through the block and on to the chutes tack fitting. This line is led back to the cockpit, where I have a jamb cleat available for it. This line allows me to adjust the tack height of the chute. Whne close reaching, we haul the tack in tight, and as we fall off the wind (sounds strange when talking of a C. Spinn.), the tack is allowed to move up and outside of the bow pulpit, in order to square the sail off before the wind.

I use two sheets for the sail, as we do tack her using the chutescoop. It's fairly straight forward, but can get exciting if one is not paying attention(!boy, story there..!). Last summer, we did a 5 hour run that turned into a broad reach, then close reach..We were having so much fun, that I did not pay all that much attention to the wind..was 20+! We were heeled at perhaps 15-20 deg. and screaming with our anchorage dead ahead. Fun, but the weather gods could have caused us to have some problems..with one decent gust. Personally, I will not use the chute in that kind of wind again, upon reflecting on the cost of a new chute.
So watch your winds, and douse it if the weather changes more than expected..or you are getting a bit uncomfortable. This is not a genoa that can be roller reefed..it takes time and effort to douse, and you are exposed on the bow during that time, so plan a little ahead here.

It's definitely fun to use..add that adjustable foot idea. It works cool.

Cheers!

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~Still Snowbound after all these months~~~

Hello to all,

I ordered and just received an asymetrical spinnaker with the ATN sock for my CD30'. My questions are as follows:

I have read that many users only attach one sheet to the sail because it's hard to jibe and in most cases you're on the same tack for a good amount of time. What do most people do?

I need to affix a block somewhere at the bow for the tack line. Where do most users attach the block? To the bowsprit, pulpit, etc. Also, any help would be appreciated regarding the size or style of block, i.e. permanently mounted or removable.

What size block is appropriate for use at the cockpit cleat to feed the sheet through?

Any other words of wisdom or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Gary

demers@sgi.com

[Neil Gordon]

Gary,

I'm looking forward to seeing it in action! (If the snow ever melts... I'm two weeks behind last year's launch plan.)

Who did the sail for you and what was the cost?


Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167



neil@nrgordon.com

[Gary]

Hi Neil,

The snow doesn't effect me because I'm mired in tax season right now and can't really think about working on the boat until after April 17.
I bought the sail from Ralph DiMattia. It's a Neil Pryde. As I recall, it was about $1,400. I also had to buy a new main. I blew my old one out last September in Buzzards Bay. But the sail was kind of tired anyway.

Maybe I'll see you in Portuguese cove this summer.

Regards,

Gary



garym@taxinvest.com

[Don Carr]

Although my Spinnaker flies on a CD25, the rig is the same. First I used the Schaeffer #5 series blocks one mounted forward of the forestay and two mounted in my stern quarter cleats aft of the cockpit. Also need a swivel block at the masthead bail. I rig 2 sheets
as I find that jibing the sail is easy after you've screwed up a few times and the second sheet really can help save time and fuss on the jibe. I run the tack through the bow mounted block and lead it aft to the foredeck cleat. Just remember the closer to the wind the shorter the tack...you don't want the sail going too far leeward as it may cause some nasty results..like broaching..the farther off wind the longer the tack as you want that sail way out in front of the boat.
A couple of hard learned lesons on jibing.. Make sure you are almost dead downwind with your main 'blanketing' the spinnaker and just blow the working sheet allowing the sail to just blow out in front of the boat. As you come through your jibe and the sail moves around to the previous windward side (now to become the leeward side) begin to take in the previously lazy sheet and as you complete the jibe and set your new course..trim up. The first few times are kinda befuddling until you get the crew coordinated and you may find yourself going to the foredeck to unscramble lines..but it all works and its a lot of fun.
As far as wind is concerned, must asym's are .75 oz nylon and 15knots is about the max before you get concerned about 'blowing out' which
if you aren't the owner of the sail is quite spectacular.
Fair winds..waiting for April 21...hehehe..



carrd48@netzero.net

[Gary]

Don,

"15knots is about the max before you get concerned about 'blowing out' which if you aren't the owner of the sail is quite spectacular"

I'll trust you on this aspect of your post.

Thanks,

Gary



garym@taxinvest.com

[Robin Meigel]

I have a light air gennaker for my CD 27 and I am very happy with a suggestion made by a rigger for the aft block(s). I had a sailmaker make closed loops of nylon webbing which run through the base of the blocks (the blocks have a slit for this). The web loops are then looped through the aft cleats when using the gennaker. The advantages are: (1) the block is located at the aft most possible location on the boat, (2) it is attached to the strongest possible place and (3) it is not permanently attached - thereby forestalling exposure to the elements when not in use (I pack them in the sail bag with the gennaker. I am not using the aft cleats for other uses when sailing, so there is no conflict there.

Robin Meigel
"Pacem" 1979 CD 27



rlmeigel@aol.com

[Bill]

Don

To what do you attach the block for the tack line. My 25D has three holes on the stemhead. 1 for the head stay (outer most), one for the jib tack shackle, and then a third (inner most) for whatever. Is that (3rd/inner most) the one I use and if so what about the chafe on the tack line? OR is the chafing issue worth considering at all???

Thanks
Bill

Although my Spinnaker flies on a CD25, the rig is the same. First I used the Schaeffer #5 series blocks one mounted forward of the forestay and two mounted in my stern quarter cleats aft of the cockpit. Also need a swivel block at the masthead bail. I rig 2 sheets
as I find that jibing the sail is easy after you've screwed up a few times and the second sheet really can help save time and fuss on the jibe. I run the tack through the bow mounted block and lead it aft to the foredeck cleat. Just remember the closer to the wind the shorter the tack...you don't want the sail going too far leeward as it may cause some nasty results..like broaching..the farther off wind the longer the tack as you want that sail way out in front of the boat.
A couple of hard learned lesons on jibing.. Make sure you are almost dead downwind with your main 'blanketing' the spinnaker and just blow the working sheet allowing the sail to just blow out in front of the boat. As you come through your jibe and the sail moves around to the previous windward side (now to become the leeward side) begin to take in the previously lazy sheet and as you complete the jibe and set your new course..trim up. The first few times are kinda befuddling until you get the crew coordinated and you may find yourself going to the foredeck to unscramble lines..but it all works and its a lot of fun.
As far as wind is concerned, must asym's are .75 oz nylon and 15knots is about the max before you get concerned about 'blowing out' which
if you aren't the owner of the sail is quite spectacular.
Fair winds..waiting for April 21...hehehe..

cd25d@rhapsodysails.com

[sloopjohnl]

that's the hole i use on my typhoon stemhead to attach a swivel block on a twisted d shackle - chafe not a problem.
do not jam the head of the asym. up against the masthead block, leave just a bit of slack so the head can pivot on a jibe.

Don

To what do you attach the block for the tack line. My 25D has three holes on the stemhead. 1 for the head stay (outer most), one for the jib tack shackle, and then a third (inner most) for whatever. Is that (3rd/inner most) the one I use and if so what about the chafe on the tack line? OR is the chafing issue worth considering at all???

Thanks
Bill

Although my Spinnaker flies on a CD25, the rig is the same. First I used the Schaeffer #5 series blocks one mounted forward of the forestay and two mounted in my stern quarter cleats aft of the cockpit. Also need a swivel block at the masthead bail. I rig 2 sheets
as I find that jibing the sail is easy after you've screwed up a few times and the second sheet really can help save time and fuss on the jibe. I run the tack through the bow mounted block and lead it aft to the foredeck cleat. Just remember the closer to the wind the shorter the tack...you don't want the sail going too far leeward as it may cause some nasty results..like broaching..the farther off wind the longer the tack as you want that sail way out in front of the boat.
A couple of hard learned lesons on jibing.. Make sure you are almost dead downwind with your main 'blanketing' the spinnaker and just blow the working sheet allowing the sail to just blow out in front of the boat. As you come through your jibe and the sail moves around to the previous windward side (now to become the leeward side) begin to take in the previously lazy sheet and as you complete the jibe and set your new course..trim up. The first few times are kinda befuddling until you get the crew coordinated and you may find yourself going to the foredeck to unscramble lines..but it all works and its a lot of fun.
As far as wind is concerned, must asym's are .75 oz nylon and 15knots is about the max before you get concerned about 'blowing out' which
if you aren't the owner of the sail is quite spectacular.
Fair winds..waiting for April 21...hehehe..

[Don Carr]

Bill; I run my forestay from the middle hole, use the inner hole for jib tack and mount my block on the outermost (most forward) hole. The
turning block eliminates tack chafe.



carrd48@netzero.net

[Neil Gordon]

I know Ralph well.

Don't worry about tax season delaying you... the weather isn't exactly cooperating so far. I'm at least a couple of weeks behind schedule. I like to be in the water before I file my tax return. <g>

Will see you in Portuguese Cove for sure. Maybe we can arrange an overnight in Scituate or wherever.


Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167



neil@nrgordon.com