Frozen foot block

[Bill Goldsmith]

There is a metal bale as part of the block. Would it be safe enough to shackle a regular block to it? What spec block and shackle would I need? Or is it too dangerous?

I wouldn't risk it. That "bale" was not designed to be load bearing. The consequences of a failure could be life threatening. Our boats are very powerful machines.

i have used that bail to run my asymmetrical spinnaker sheets with snatch blocks to guide to the primary winches. i thought that's what they were designed for. I suppose that sail is only used in light air, but do you think I shouldn't be using it for that purpose? There is nothing else really to attach snatch blocks to.

[Jim Walsh]

There is a metal bale as part of the block. Would it be safe enough to shackle a regular block to it? What spec block and shackle would I need? Or is it too dangerous?

I wouldn't risk it. That "bale" was not designed to be load bearing. The consequences of a failure could be life threatening. Our boats are very powerful machines.

i have used that bail to run my asymmetrical spinnaker sheets with snatch blocks to guide to the primary winches. i thought that's what they were designed for. I suppose that sail is only used in light air, but do you think I shouldn't be using it for that purpose? There is nothing else really to attach snatch blocks to.

I can’t provide a definitive reply since I’m not familiar with the CD32. If your track extends back far enough you can attach your snatch blocks to a car (see attached photo). If not just add a strop to your snatch Block and use your stern cleats. They are not the perfect solution but they are through bolted with proper backing plates. I offer these suggestions only for use with your assymetrical in appropriate wind strengths.

[Carl Thunberg]

Face it, Dean. Loda May is hopelessly broken. You need to sell her to me. I'll take this problem off your hands. Just trying to be helpful . . .

[Jim Walsh]

Face it, Dean. Loda May is hopelessly broken. You need to sell her to me. I'll take this problem off your hands. Just trying to be helpful . . .

[John Stone]

I assure you the foot lock is through-bolted. It has tremendous loads on it since the sheet turns 180° as it passes through the block.

Does it look like the one in the pictures I posted below? If so, just take the center bolt out. It’s threaded into a button welded to the under side of the flange base. If it’s a differnt block, can you post a picture and we might be able to give you better idea how to fix it.

I’d be loath to let the boatyard do it if there is any possible way to fix it yourself. Seriously, if the locker is too small to get into, find a small 10 year old kid and show him or her how to use a socket wrench. Put a headlamp on them and pay them $10 or $20 to crawl in there and help you out. You get it fixed, they learn something about tools, work, business, and the value of developing some mechanical skills.

[Bill Goldsmith]

Thanks for posting the picture of the underside of the foot block John. That's the same one as on my 32. I see the axle is not through bolted which makes sense.

[Dean Abramson]

Face it, Dean. Loda May is hopelessly broken. You need to sell her to me. I'll take this problem off your hands. Just trying to be helpful . . .

In your dreams, Thunberg.

It's wood. Wood expands with high humidity. If you can somehow encase it and feed hot air via a hair dryer overnight, it just might work.
Call it a Hail Mary attempt. Then sand the cheeks down a bit.

Wrong forum thread, maybe? ???

I assure you the foot lock is through-bolted. It has tremendous loads on it since the sheet turns 180° as it passes through the block.

Does it look like the one in the pictures I posted below? If so, just take the center bolt out. It’s threaded into a button welded to the under side of the flange base. If it’s a differnt block, can you post a picture and we might be able to give you better idea how to fix it.

Awesome to see that pic, John. Thanks! That's my guy alright. I really wanted to know where/how that center bolt is attached. However, I tried like hell to loosen that bolt, to no avail. The low profile of the head made it extremely difficult to keep a wrench on it. Since I have determined that the sheave is stuck to that bolt, I fear that even if I were able to turn it, it and the sheave will only move up a bit before the sheave hits the upper cheek, than game over. Again.

And even if I could get that bolt out, then the question becomes "what now?" Is finding a sheave like the any easier than finding the whole block?

Which launches the question: does anyone know where I am likely to find that ancient Schaefer block. Efforts so far have no borne fruit. My sense is that finding/replacing the whole block is the way to go.

Right now, I think I am going to have the yard cut a hole in the propane locker. It will be christened as an "inspection port." After the job is done, we will put on a cover with sealant, to keep the propane locker fume-tight.

[Dean Abramson]

i have used that bail to run my asymmetrical spinnaker sheets with snatch blocks to guide to the primary winches. i thought that's what they were designed for. I suppose that sail is only used in light air, but do you think I shouldn't be using it for that purpose? There is nothing else really to attach snatch blocks to.

I thought so too, Bill. But I have not tried that, actually.

We run our assym to blocks on the tracks, behind the jib's blocks, then to those blankity-blank foot blocks. It's no big deal to pull the jib sheets out of them temporarily. Truthfully, I have gone to using just one sheet for the assym. If we need to switch sides, I snuff it, re-run sheet, then re-set sail. Easier on my nerves this way. Obviously, one cannot "tack downwind" this way, so I only use the chute if we are going to be on one tack for a long time.

My lone attempt at actually jibing the assym was a near-death experience, and my crew ain't exactly keen on trying again. It sure was fun pulling that giant wet rascal out of the water, though . . .

[Dean Abramson]

I think I may have located a used block. At a marine salvage yard in Portland, so I can go actually look at it in person tomorrow morning.

[John Stone]

Dean
PB Blaster is good stuff. I keep it in my arsenal. But, the best stuff I think is called Kroil. You can get it at ACE or True Value hardware. If you can’t find it then PB blaster is fine. Apply around the bolt head. Tap it with a hammer. Repeat several times a day for for a couple days. Let that penitrating oil work down through the threads. The vibration caused by the hammer helps create pathways for the oil. Apply some heat if necessary. Repeat. If you can find one, get a 1/2” six point (vice a standard 12 point) box wrench of good quality. Tap the head with a hammer and apply pressure with the wrench. I think there is a high probability it will come off. There are two bolts to remove. See photos.

There is no need to replace the block. It is simple quality hardware. SS and bronze. Nothing out there will last as long. There are no bearings. When the bolts comes out remove the aluminum cheek plate and then the bronze sheave and integral SS bushing will come out too.

Clean up the sheave bolts and bushing with some mineral spirits. Maybe soak it over night. Use some 400 wet/dry paper and some water and wrap the paper around something skinny like a 16d common nail or whatever is the right size and ream the bushing out. Clean it up with some 800 wet dry. Hit the bushing with a polisher if you have one.

Get a new bolt and a bushing too if it is corroded. Try McMaster Carr or Bolt US. Bronze or SS. When you reinstall it apply waterproof grease to the spindle and Lanicoat or TefGel to the threads. Then you are good to go. I bet if disassembled every 4-6 years it will last forever. Neither harken nor Antal can do that.

If you have just a little luck, you might be able to do all this and never remove the flange base.

Just because I was curious I decided to take my foot block apart. Took 8 min. Series of photos below. I used two small open end wrenches to lift the bolt up. Good luck.

[John Stone]

Dean
Two more pictures.

[mgphl52]

And even if I could get that bolt out, then the question becomes "what now?" Is finding a sheave like the any easier than finding the whole block?

You can most likely get it out using a socket and impact driver. Beats cutting extra holes in a bote - regardless of where they are!

[Dean Abramson]

Those photos are extremely helpful. Thanks so much!

I am going to attack again tomorrow. You have given me a lot of hope. I thought maybe lots applications of Blaster (I'll try Kroil now) and patience and the right too/technique might pay off with that bolt, but since I was not sure how the thing was constructed, I gave up, thinking I might be screwing something up if I persisted. I got gun-shy.

I think you are right. This is definitely the way to go if I can free the bolts, as impossible as it may seem right now.

Much obliged.

[Dean Abramson]

You can most likely get it out using a socket and impact driver. Beats cutting extra holes in a bote - regardless of where they are!

Can you explain the exact technique? My only experience with sockets is on ratchets.

[Dean Abramson]

Is there any type of non-electric impact driver (if that's what you'd call it), that you can mount a socket to, then when whacked with a hammer the impact is converted into counter-clockwise torque?

It seems like years ago I had something like this, but for screw heads. ??