Cape Dory 14 Continued

[jcork]

Wanted to add plate to verify it is a 1964!

[John Stone]

Fantastic. Look at the bronze hardware for the rudder! Tell more about your CD 14. More pictures. Or is there another post I did not see?

[John Stone]

Duh. Ok I found the original post. Right under my nose.

I suspect it sails fine. I have a 9’ fatty knees i have sailed often. Probably sails similar which would mean it’s petty good. Yes, squirrelly dead down wind in moderate to heavy air. Kind of like a laser. Other than that it should be fine. Would love to see more pictures if you are inclined.

[Dick Villamil]

Nice find! I have a CD10 that I restored and have sailed it a little - choosing the 1-8 knot winds to do so. I also am somewhat less mobile and here are some things I learned about the CD10 that will apply to the 14. Do not get into the bow - very tippy and will go over easily. Use tie downs for the bailing equipment, centerboard and rudder in case of capsize they will stay with the boat - not go to the bottom or float away. Good idea to raise and lower the sail from helm position. Perhaps learn to sit on the bottom or windward rail to keep her upright. As for rowing - superb - both boats are a breeze to row - great for fishing or for the grandkids to row. Check the floatation to see if it is soggy. Make sure that all compartments are sealed and dry. Have fun restoring AND sailing/rowing.

[jcork]

Update. So I brought the sail in to get it washed and to repair a small hole/tear.
Turns out it is the original. He’s going to put the logo and sail #179 on as well. Did some west system fiberglass repair using their filler. Then power washed the bottom as much as I could. Was going to paint her dark blue but thought it may make any imperfections more prominent. I think I’ll paint her a nice shiny white for the classic Whitehall look. Then maybe do the bottom with a non alblative seafoam green.
2 Questions. It seems I am missing the mainsheet hardware on the back end of the centerboard. If anyone has a picture I’d like to match it as close as possible. Something was there because there are 2 screws. Although I saw a picture of one boat with nothing there?
I am trying to figure out the configuration of the centerboard pulley system. If anyone has a picture or diagram that sure would help.
Lastly was thinking of putting a cleat further back so I can raise sails in the spacious helm! Any suggestions on placement?

[jcork]

More pics. This centerboard pic from another boat shows no hardware.

[John Stone]

What a very cool boat. Thanks for posting the pictures. Love to see it when it's rigged.

Don't know what those fasteners are for and not knowing more about the rig it's hard to say. My gut tell me perhaps it was related to some kind of hardware to secure the mainsheet depending on how the sheet is rigged. The positioning does not fit with most cleats I have seen. Made in 1964. So Goldfinger comes to mind. Perhaps an ejection seat button . . . .

[John Stone]

Quick internet search reveals a potential ID for those fasteners. The CD 14 in the photo has a mainsheet swivel cam cleat. Not definitive. Just a possibility.

[Carl Thunberg]

Do the screws stand proud? It's hard to tell from a photograph. If they stand proud, they could be for a removable compass. My former Rhodes 18 had almost identical screws for that purpose.

[jcork]

I believe they do stand tall, and a removable compass makes sense.
A local CD 14er sent me a picture of the swivel cam cleat.
The basic cleat behind it is for the centerboard tie off.
This is not original though, wonder what was?

[jcork]

Found a swivel cam clear at the Long Island Consignment shop for $20!

[John Stone]

The best kind of find. Looks great. Should work well.

[Steve Laume]

I restored a very early CD-14 a few years back.

I added a swivel cam in exactly the same place as where you had the screws. I don't think Cape Dory originally had a provision for cleating off the main sheet. There may have been a reason for that as you want to be able to free it easily if the wind is puffy.

I also noticed your boat has the same crazing of the gel coat as mine did. This will transfer, through the new paint if you do not address it first. I did a heavy sanding of the gel coat to remove most of the crazing, then followed up with finer paper and a complete coat of epoxy. Once that was sanded smooth again, I painted the hull. That treatment has held up very well for over ten years with no sign of the crazing.

I sailed mine a few times in the first few years but rowing these boats gives me the greatest joy. I have a pair of 7&1/2' Shaw and Tenny oars that will make it fly, Steve.

[jcork]

Thanks Steve. I have since sanded the crazing halfway down and hoped the paint would fill in the rest.
Any chance you remember the type of paint? I was just going to roll and tip.
I have had great luck with one part West Marine Brightsides but was thinking of trying
2 part Pettit Easypoxy.
I will be keeping the boat on a trailer and dipping it to sail.
It seems all hull paint says don't use below the water line.
I'm concerned because with a Cape Dory 25 and a 21ft Cuddy W/A I may leave it in for a couple of days at some point.
I may need to bottom paint her which then brings up the task of trying to figure out the water line for taping. Ugh.

[jcork]

UPDATE
Got my original 1964 sails cleaned and mended. Wow!