While inspecting the seacocks on my CD27 I noticed two seacocks about 6-8" apart, one was connected with 3/4" hose to the raw water pump and the other just had a 3/4" hose that went to know where. Is this a spare? On the bottom of the boat one had a strainer and the other didn't. I have a Westerbeke W13.
Thank you, Skip
Two engine raw water seacocks?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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skipsmagic
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Feb 26th, '18, 10:35
- Location: 1983 CD27 HULL #252
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Sea Hunt Video
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- Joined: May 4th, '11, 19:03
- Location: Former caretaker S/V Bali Ha'i 1982 CD 25D; Hull 69 and S/V Tadpole Typhoon Week
Re: Two engine raw water seacocks?
Possibly cockpit scupper drain hose that somehow became "unattached" 
The thru-hull with the strainer should be for the engine raw water.
The thru-hull with the strainer should be for the engine raw water.
Fair winds,
Roberto
a/k/a Sea Hunt "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
________________________________
"I wish to have no Connection with any Ship that does not Sail fast for I intend to go in harm's way." Captain John Paul Jones, 16 November 1778, as quoted in Naval History and Heritage Command, http://www.history.navy.mil
Roberto
a/k/a Sea Hunt "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
________________________________
"I wish to have no Connection with any Ship that does not Sail fast for I intend to go in harm's way." Captain John Paul Jones, 16 November 1778, as quoted in Naval History and Heritage Command, http://www.history.navy.mil
Re: Two engine raw water seacocks?
I'm not familiar with the layout of a CD27 but it would have only one to serve as the raw water intake for the engine which would have the strainer. The other must have had a dedicated use and since its 3/4" it wasn't a cockpit/bilge pump/sink drain. Perhaps it serviced a raw water pump for the galley?
Jim Walsh
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time
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skipsmagic
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Feb 26th, '18, 10:35
- Location: 1983 CD27 HULL #252
Re: Two engine raw water seacocks?
Thank You Roberto and Steve. I appreciate it.
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Northstar1014
- Posts: 97
- Joined: Nov 7th, '14, 19:28
- Location: RESOLVED 1983 CD 27
Re: Two engine raw water seacocks?
Skip, the unused one is 6-8 inches aft of the one connected to your raw water pump, correct? If yes, that's the drain seacock for your galley sink. It is LOTS of fun to disassemble and grease that seacock, given how hard it is to reach.
Also, if you are thinking of adding a raw water strainer, I did this project last spring using a Vetus strainer bolted just below that little teak access door below the sink, which I am guessing you also have. Fits great.
Also, if you are thinking of adding a raw water strainer, I did this project last spring using a Vetus strainer bolted just below that little teak access door below the sink, which I am guessing you also have. Fits great.
S/V RESOLVED. 1983 CD-27. Westerbeke W-13.
Massachusetts
Massachusetts
Re: Two engine raw water seacocks?
Skip,
In my 27 (hull # 204 1981) the sink thru hull drain (3/4" Spartan) is starboard and pretty much right under the sink and not hard to work on at all. (Well at least easier than working on the big scupper drains).
27s had a number of different engines during their production run and I think Cape Dory put the seawater intake wherever it made most sense. I bet the raw water pump on your motor is over there too.
The raw water intake for my old engine (single cylinder Yanmar YSM 8) was port side right thru the corner of the engine pan. For the new Beta 14 that I'm installing, that old hole will be glassed over and we are going to place a new Groco 3/4" thru hull at the very top of the bilge that will present on the vertical surface of the keel. I'll be able to grab it by popping the bilge hatch in the cabin, and reaching aft just a under the sole for the handle. My mechanic prefers to instal a regular thru hull opening for cooling water - no exterior strainer plate - which he says just fills with marine growth and is nearly impossible to keep clean. Instead we will fit an inline raw water strainer in the engine compartment which is a snap to check and clean if necessary. I can't argue that point - the strainer plate on the old Spartan we removed was always filled with baby mussels at the end of every season and it was no small feat to clean every winter. I'd rather have a regular open thru hull which you can dive on and clean with a screw driver or even a tooth brush.
I'm doing a major major refit of my boat because I plan to keep her and I'm fortunate enough to have the $$ to do so. I did not strictly have to replace my Spartan thru hulls. The mechanisms were actually in very good shape - especially the big scupper 1 1/2 " pieces. I lapped them all when I got Jerezana 5 years ago and did most of them again two years ago. But the wood backing plates were showing some age (dry rot) and the thru hulls themselves were seriously frozen and would not budge - so they had to be taken out with a grinder. Even though none of my Spartans leaked even a little, my son Toby, who's shop my boat is in (Carbon Ocean Yachts, Bristol, RI) talked me into new hardware and G10 backing plates. "Now is your chance, Dad". You'd cry to see what an air driven grinder does to a thru hull.
I kind of had a sentimental attachment to the Spartan design, but the Grocos have a grease fitting, and have a steel ball/delrine mechanism, and the moving parts can easily be replaced without removing the thru hull part of the fitting, and they are less expensive (a relative expre$$ion), and I think just as durable if you maintain them. So I went with Grocos. They will certainly outlast me. I've assuaged my guilt by ordering a few bits from Spartan (mid-boat cleats, which drop right into the toe rails, and new hinges for the lockers and a few other things).
cheers
Fred
In my 27 (hull # 204 1981) the sink thru hull drain (3/4" Spartan) is starboard and pretty much right under the sink and not hard to work on at all. (Well at least easier than working on the big scupper drains).
27s had a number of different engines during their production run and I think Cape Dory put the seawater intake wherever it made most sense. I bet the raw water pump on your motor is over there too.
The raw water intake for my old engine (single cylinder Yanmar YSM 8) was port side right thru the corner of the engine pan. For the new Beta 14 that I'm installing, that old hole will be glassed over and we are going to place a new Groco 3/4" thru hull at the very top of the bilge that will present on the vertical surface of the keel. I'll be able to grab it by popping the bilge hatch in the cabin, and reaching aft just a under the sole for the handle. My mechanic prefers to instal a regular thru hull opening for cooling water - no exterior strainer plate - which he says just fills with marine growth and is nearly impossible to keep clean. Instead we will fit an inline raw water strainer in the engine compartment which is a snap to check and clean if necessary. I can't argue that point - the strainer plate on the old Spartan we removed was always filled with baby mussels at the end of every season and it was no small feat to clean every winter. I'd rather have a regular open thru hull which you can dive on and clean with a screw driver or even a tooth brush.
I'm doing a major major refit of my boat because I plan to keep her and I'm fortunate enough to have the $$ to do so. I did not strictly have to replace my Spartan thru hulls. The mechanisms were actually in very good shape - especially the big scupper 1 1/2 " pieces. I lapped them all when I got Jerezana 5 years ago and did most of them again two years ago. But the wood backing plates were showing some age (dry rot) and the thru hulls themselves were seriously frozen and would not budge - so they had to be taken out with a grinder. Even though none of my Spartans leaked even a little, my son Toby, who's shop my boat is in (Carbon Ocean Yachts, Bristol, RI) talked me into new hardware and G10 backing plates. "Now is your chance, Dad". You'd cry to see what an air driven grinder does to a thru hull.
I kind of had a sentimental attachment to the Spartan design, but the Grocos have a grease fitting, and have a steel ball/delrine mechanism, and the moving parts can easily be replaced without removing the thru hull part of the fitting, and they are less expensive (a relative expre$$ion), and I think just as durable if you maintain them. So I went with Grocos. They will certainly outlast me. I've assuaged my guilt by ordering a few bits from Spartan (mid-boat cleats, which drop right into the toe rails, and new hinges for the lockers and a few other things).
cheers
Fred
Fred Mueller
Jerezana
CD 27 Narragansett Bay
Jerezana
CD 27 Narragansett Bay
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skipsmagic
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Feb 26th, '18, 10:35
- Location: 1983 CD27 HULL #252
Re: Two engine raw water seacocks?
Hello Northstar1014, spot on, the sink is out of the boat and it confused me what the extra seacock was for. I bought the kit from Spartan to redo the seacocks and the sink one moves good, so maybe a little grease and it will be all set. Some of the others very stiff and will probably need lapping.
Hi Fred,
I am in Dartmouth MA, and would love to come check out that install of the Beta, someday that you are working on the boat? I won't get in the way and am an expert in handing people wrenches. I am hoping that the W13 will fire to life after 10 years of sitting but want to be ready just in case. A mechanic has told me first thing to do was try turning the crank at the pulley with a wrench to make sure she hasn't seized than it will be time to drain the tank and replace the fuel lines. Chronologically I am at a lost where to start on projects but being a Buzzards Bay sailor I know I am going to need a good engine.
I did shop vac out the whole boat this weekend and evicted the mice so I am on my way.
It's encouraging how much people love these boats and how they are seriously worth the time and money spent on them. Everytime I step on her, i find more that I like about her more than not.
Thank you,
Skip
Hi Fred,
I am in Dartmouth MA, and would love to come check out that install of the Beta, someday that you are working on the boat? I won't get in the way and am an expert in handing people wrenches. I am hoping that the W13 will fire to life after 10 years of sitting but want to be ready just in case. A mechanic has told me first thing to do was try turning the crank at the pulley with a wrench to make sure she hasn't seized than it will be time to drain the tank and replace the fuel lines. Chronologically I am at a lost where to start on projects but being a Buzzards Bay sailor I know I am going to need a good engine.
I did shop vac out the whole boat this weekend and evicted the mice so I am on my way.
It's encouraging how much people love these boats and how they are seriously worth the time and money spent on them. Everytime I step on her, i find more that I like about her more than not.
Thank you,
Skip
Re: Two engine raw water seacocks?
Skip,
PM me your cell and I'll give you a shout about a possible visit ...
Fred
PM me your cell and I'll give you a shout about a possible visit ...
Fred
Fred Mueller
Jerezana
CD 27 Narragansett Bay
Jerezana
CD 27 Narragansett Bay
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Northstar1014
- Posts: 97
- Joined: Nov 7th, '14, 19:28
- Location: RESOLVED 1983 CD 27
Re: Two engine raw water seacocks?
That W13 is a good engine, you should be able to get it going. Must have perfectly clean fuel, thats why it has 2x diesel filters on the port side. If you don't already have a primary filter coming off your tank, now is the time to add one for extra protection. I pulled and cleaned my diesel tank 2 years ago -- had to cut a bit of bulkhead to get it off its shelf, and then pulled it out the port lazarette. I coated a thick piece of rope in degreaser and sloshed it around the interior to get it clean---fortunately only had a bit of gunk and debris on the bottom. Keep you project photos coming and we will help you through the list! Ted
S/V RESOLVED. 1983 CD-27. Westerbeke W-13.
Massachusetts
Massachusetts
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skipsmagic
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Feb 26th, '18, 10:35
- Location: 1983 CD27 HULL #252
Re: Two engine raw water seacocks?
Thank you Ted,
The PO did fill the tank completely before storing, which I here is good, but 10 years is a long time so I think it should be drained. It has a Racor on it but I just happen to work for a Racor distributor so I'll be adding a brand new one with a primer pump.
I appreciate your help!
Skip
The PO did fill the tank completely before storing, which I here is good, but 10 years is a long time so I think it should be drained. It has a Racor on it but I just happen to work for a Racor distributor so I'll be adding a brand new one with a primer pump.
I appreciate your help!
Skip