I like sailing with a hank-on jib. It’s more efficient. The sail itself is longer lived than a furling headsail. It is less expensive. There is less maintenance required and it is more reliable. But, it is not as convenient as a furling jib...no doubt about it. While there are techniques for managing a hank-on jib that are tried and proven, it does take skill, occasional acrobatics, and some planning to keep things under control. Our genoa is about 390sqft. But, it has a bonnet that we can zip off that reduces it to a working jib size of about 280 sqft. But, the challenges are similar with either headsail.
We use a jib downhaul as part of our headsail handling system. A jib downhaul is a line (in our case 1/4” 3 strand dacron) that is attached to the jib halyard shackle and then shackled to the headstay. It remains connected to the halyard regardless if the jib is raised or lowered. The downhaul runs down through a low-friction ring seized to the jib tack fitting and then leads aft to the foredeck. When you let go the jib halyard and the sail drops you just pull on the downhaul ensuring the jib comes all the way to the deck and thus it can’t be partly blown back up the headstay. Unless you are into drama and high adventure, when you drop the headsail you have to know it will come all the way down and stay there. That’s what the jib downhaul is designed to do...help pull the jib down when the wind is up and then keep it down.
The thing is, I had not figured out a good way to cleat off the running end of the downhaul. For two years I simply tied it off to the forward port stanchion with a round turn and a couple half hitches. It worked but it was not ideal. It took two hands. It could get hairy at night, off-shore or not, to get the jib down and secured. I thought about installing a cam cleat to quickly secure the downhaul. I did not want a Harken or Schaefer cleat for a location I knew would be bathed in saltwater. Also, aesthetically, a modern cam cleat would clash with bronze deck hardware. And, it needed to have an integral fairlead to capture the line in place because the cleat and line ends up under the sail when its down on the deck.
A couple years ago, I read a review in WoodenBoat magazine extolling the quality of hand-made bronze marine hardware JM Reineck and Son. I sent away for the catalog—only about 5 pages long. Jim Reineck did indeed make a bronze cam cleat with a double row of delrin ball-bearings and an integrated fair-lead. Looked perfect. I had seen a similar one used for the same purpose on another boat I have long admired. But it was too expensive. I lusted for it for about a year. I kept looking at it in the catalog. Finally, I could resist the temptation no longer. I called Jim Reineck. He was very personable and answered all my questions. I gave in and ordered it. It arrived a couple weeks ago and it is in fact a gorgeous piece of hardware. But, it’s not bling. It’s got a real job. It’s well made, tough, and is designed for combat. I installed it last week. I have not had a chance to use it under sail but I have practiced with it at the dock. I think it’s going to work out well. Still not as convenient as a furler. But, it’s a simple solution for simple system.
And I mention a small thing for those who might want to but can't seem to break away from a furler. Read "Gyspy Moth Circles the World." In 1966-67, Francis Chichester sailed his 53' ketch around the world single-handed via the great capes with hank on sails. He was 66 years old. No GPS. No electronic auto pilot. No electronic winches. No furlers. He was a tough ol' bird, true enough. But, we can sail boats half that size if it's important to us. By the way, its a great book too if you enjoy a real sea yarn. Gyspy Moth IV was a terrible boat. A real hell-bitch. He had no fondness for her that's for sure.
If you are interested in how we installed the downhaul cleat you can click here for more info. https://farreachvoyages.wordpress.com/2 ... /#more-953
