25D seacock grease

[rtbates]

Greetings:

I just cleaned and re-greased all seacocks. Seraph is still out of the water getting her bottom finished. My question involves the amount of grease required. After greasing the head intake and taking it back apart there seems to be very little grease visible. I brushed grease only on the stem, per Spartan instruction. I'm debating taking them apart one more time and brushing on a tad more grease. Maybe even to the body as well as the stem. I'm very nervous about not being able to get them to seal and needing to haul out to redo. All the stems and bodies were in good shape. No lapping required, just a little burnishing with 1000 grit on the stems. I'm also wondering about the possibility of having too much grease, especially on the engine intake, and having a glob of grease ingested into the engine water cooling system.

What's the correct amount of grease look/feel like? Does a little dab get it done or err on the side of more? Should I put so much on that 'good' amount gets squeezed out on assembly?

Thanks
Randy 25D 'Seraph'

[mgphl52]

Check out this site:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/tape ... e_seacocks

[rtbates]

Check out this site:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/tape ... e_seacocks

Thanks, but I have read this info. What I need is a feel for the 'correct' amount of grease.

[jbenagh]

I find it takes very little grease to get them right. I use a popsicle stick to spread a thin film, maybe 1/32in thick, on the barrel, mostly toward the middle. The extra will simply squeeze out both ends when you tighten the nut. Over time you will learn how little you can get away with. If you use too little, they will not turn easily (you will hear the problem). On the engine intake, you can pull the hose an look to see if there is grease on the opening that might get into the motor. I usually leave this hose off after winterizing since it makes it easier to access the seacock; I have never notices any extra grease.

Jeff

[Sea Hunt Video]

Randy:

Any advise you can share with a fellow CD 25D caretaker on the best (least injurious) way to remove the engine compartment seacocks The more detail the better; the simpler the better. Removing the hoses, reaching and connecting with nuts, bolts, etc.

Sadly, I have been stuck on the starboard cockpit drain seacock. I recently was advised to "leave it alone". It's stuck in the "open" position; leave it in the open position.

While I am sure this is good advise I would like to remove and clean them at least once.

Thanks.

[rtbates]

Randy:

Any advise you can share with a fellow CD 25D caretaker on the best (least injurious) way to remove the engine compartment seacocks The more detail the better; the simpler the better. Removing the hoses, reaching and connecting with nuts, bolts, etc.

Sadly, I have been stuck on the starboard cockpit drain seacock. I recently was advised to "leave it alone". It's stuck in the "open" position; leave it in the open position.

While I am sure this is good advise I would like to remove and clean them at least once.

Thanks.

Being 5'7" 133lbs helps if not a requirement. I removed the port scrubber seacock from the port locker engine access panel. Required me having my feet astern and my head and right shoulder in the engine compartment. I used my right hand on the trans for balance. Was a PAIN. Literally. No that the lock nut and adj nut are apart I could assembly from the cabin access. Requires a 15/16 socket, while the 3/4 lock nuts are only 15/16. Of course I had no 15/16 socket on board at the time, so the locknut and adj nut had to unthreaded as a unit. The rest were easy from the cabin access panel, again I'm SMALL.

[rtbates]

I find it takes very little grease to get them right. I use a popsicle stick to spread a thin film, maybe 1/32in thick, on the barrel, mostly toward the middle. The extra will simply squeeze out both ends when you tighten the nut. Over time you will learn how little you can get away with. If you use too little, they will not turn easily (you will hear the problem). On the engine intake, you can pull the hose an look to see if there is grease on the opening that might get into the motor. I usually leave this hose off after winterizing since it makes it easier to access the seacock; I have never notices any extra grease.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff

That was pretty much what I wanted/needed to hear.
Upon removal of the seacocks I was absolutely amassed that they didn't leak given the appearance of little to no grease, especially the scuppers.

[robh]

Randy:
Sadly, I have been stuck on the starboard cockpit drain seacock. I recently was advised to "leave it alone". It's stuck in the "open" position; leave it in the open position.

I would not just ignore it. The seacock is there in case the drain hose becomes compromised, and prevents backflow into the hull of the boat. I it my understanding is this exact situation is what tends to sink most unattended boats (in calm weather.)

I leave mine in the open position 99.99% of the time, but I do open/close them every time I'm on the boat (weekly or so). I also inspect said hoses during that weekly close/open. If I wasn't able to inspect the hoses as often, I may leave the cockpit drains closed more often. The cockpit filling with rain water is also not great; so I just ensure they are operable and leave them open.

When I got my CD28, the starboard side cockpit seacock was also stuck in the open position. It had been there for years without anyone moving it, and had seized up. Only after being disassembled, minor fairing to remove buildout, and regreasing did it resume proper function. It is also under my battery shelf, so I sympathize with your difficultly with any work in the cockpit lockers.

[barfwinkle]

would not just ignore it. The seacock is there in case the drain hose becomes compromised, and prevents backflow into the hull of the boat. I it my understanding is this exact situation is what tends to sink most unattended boats (in calm weather.)

GE Tad Pole Sailor.

What robh said!

Otherwise, get a 3 pound hammer and a steel chisel. That will simplify it for you.

Fair winds!

[Paul D.]

I definitely concur with Robh. Next time the boat is hauled I would manhandle that seacock and get it moving. Maybe whilst still in the water I might try some light tapping on the handle to get it moving but nothing serious. Especially if it looks crusty and any other color than bronze-ish. And I would damn sure have a plug handy!

Generally I pull apart Femme's seacocks whenever they stop moving the way they do after I service them, about every few years or so. We pull out every year here though in the Great White North (which isn't snowy yet this year BTW.) so we don't need to go very long before I can do this job.

I would definitely take care of that though at the next opportunity and keep a close eye on the hose.

[Joe Myerson]

Like Randy, I'm pretty small, but it's still uncomfortable to get at that port engine compartment seacock. However, as everybody else has said, Roberto, don't "just leave it alone." I'd say, if you have to hire somebody to do it, do so once every three years. But don't let your seacocks go ungreased.

--Joe

[Keith]

Randy,

I think that you are good to go. remember the grease doesn't seal it is the metal to metal that seals. tighten the nut until there is some resistance to turning and you should be fine.

Roberto,

I suggest the next time you are hauled take off the handle and nut and a few taps with the hammer should loosen it free. Then lap as required, grease and reassemble.

Keith

[Martinhilldpo]

I just did all 4 sea engine bay sea cocks on my 25D this fall. I found doing the port side ones were much easier after I removed the sink. Generally they were not that hard to get to, not nearly as hard as the engine zinc (Yanmar). The biggest problem I had was removing the through hulls from the outside. Once I got a propane torch and gently heated them up to soften the sealant they came out with the proper tool quite easily. I also replaced the backing plates which were rotten and soft.

If any sea cock is jammed in the open position I would be stripping it out and fixing it pronto.

There is definitely a downside to leaving the cockpit drains open when the boat is unattended. If the hose was to fail (which it shouldnt), the boat will sink. If left shut obviously your cockpit is going to fill with rain water.

Best I can think of for this one is to leave just one open. That I figure reduces the chances of a damaged hose leaking and sinking the boat by 50%. When I am onboard I open them both.

[rtbates]

Back in the water and after adjustment the starboard scupper was the only one weeping just a tad. That was Mon. Today no sign of weeping and operating all resulted in not a drop. I also painted all the backer boards. I had a unknown weeping of the head intake over a pretty good period time. Result was a delaminated lower edge of the board. Used expandable glue and pressure to reattach the layers. Paint will prevent a future issue. A weeping/leaking seacock is one thing, water damage is another. Good luck guys with those hard to reach buggers. Befriend a small guy!

I didn't want to admit to this until I figured I got away with it. Last time my boat was out of the water for a bottom job and the seacock, most were serviced, was 10 years ago. Good thing Seraph is in very clean fresh Lake Travis.

Oh, and use Spartan's grease. It's about 1000 times sticker than axle grease. Intended for very very low rpm operation, unlike axle grease.

[Joe Myerson]

Oh, and use Spartan's grease. It's about 1000 times sticker than axle grease. Intended for very very low rpm operation, unlike axle grease.

Couldn't agree more, Randy!

--Joe