Beware all CDers of rigging toggle failure!
A few weeks ago in Nantucket sound with a 20 knot wind I heard a loud ping and to my amazement watched my starboard rear lower shroud recoil against the mast. I immediately headed up, fired up the diesel and engaged the autopilot to hold her into the wind while I investigated and put temporary measures in place. I believe the failure to be caused by crevice corrosion. I tried without success to take closeup pictures of the two distinct colors of the failed area. The darker area where the corrosion was eating away at the SS over the years and the clean area where the SS finally failed. The PO had changed the rigging 9 years ago but I don't think that the toggles were changed. See the sailboat symbol in the pics, is that the original from CD? They are difficult to inspect because you have to take the toggle off the turnbuckle at the end of the shroud then unscrew the stud from the barrel so that you can view the inside of the toggle. I'm very fortunate that it wasn't the rear stay toggle that failed as it is the only support from the rear. The others all have backup, I.E. upper and lowers on the sides and head stay and baby stay on the front. Below are the pics of the failed toggle and my temporary repair.
Rigging Toggle Failure
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Rigging Toggle Failure
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Re: Rigging Toggle Failure
The toggle looks like a C.S. Johnson. I think they're mostly known for lifeline rigging and I don't think it's original. When you replace,
I would double check for a fair lead and that the toggle jaws are wide enough to allow it to pilot around the bronze chainplate fitting.
Perhaps the failed toggle's jaws weren't wide enough, bound up akilter and put all the pressure on one side of the turnbuckle end- just
guessing, mind you- as I'm no expert. - Jean
I would double check for a fair lead and that the toggle jaws are wide enough to allow it to pilot around the bronze chainplate fitting.
Perhaps the failed toggle's jaws weren't wide enough, bound up akilter and put all the pressure on one side of the turnbuckle end- just
guessing, mind you- as I'm no expert. - Jean
Jean - 1983 CD 33 "Grace" moored in
Padanaram Harbor
Massachusetts
Padanaram Harbor
Massachusetts
Re: Rigging Toggle Failure
That C. Sherman Johnson turnbuckle toggle was original equipment on my boat. A replacement is available http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/s00048.htm.
Steve Laume may comment soon. He had an identicle toggle failure which he noticed while we were in Bermuda. He effected a repair with an onboard spare. Your jury rigged repair was fine. A Dyneema lashing would have been an effective temporary replacement also.
Steve Laume may comment soon. He had an identicle toggle failure which he noticed while we were in Bermuda. He effected a repair with an onboard spare. Your jury rigged repair was fine. A Dyneema lashing would have been an effective temporary replacement also.
Jim Walsh
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time
-
Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
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Re: Rigging Toggle Failure
Yup, I had a cracked aft lower toggle on the port side. I caught it in my pre departure inspection before it let go. Mine was right at the apex of the bend and I don't think this has anything to do with crevice corrosion. I replaced my rigging wire a few years ago but kept the tangs, toggles and turnbuckles. I think the problem we both experienced is from flexing over the lifetime of our boats and their rigs. I had been running my rig at 11 to 12 % of breaking strength for a few years and would get a noticeable amount of play in the lowers. After attending the Cabin Fever Luncheon and listening to the speaker, I tightened things up to 15%. I don't think the increased tension had anything to do with the development of the crack. Rather the opposite. All the time the shrouds were loose they would be flexing to eventually create a work hardened condition in the stainless steel that would cause it to crack. I don't think it is coincidence that we both experienced a failure of the lower shroud toggle. These are the ones that would see the most flex. The stays and even the uppers remain under more constant tension.
I did have a spare toggle on board but it was for the larger wire and not an exact fit. I figured I would just pay a visit to the local rigger in St Geoges to get a proper one. He had nothing anywhere near correct so I bent the one I had, a bit, to make it work for the smaller toggle. I never really imaqgined I would need the spare but it came in handy. I also had a bunch of light line I could have used to lash things in place but felt much better about having a proper set up at the beginning of a long offshore passage.
I have since gone to Defender and bought a whole spool of lashing line and some heavier Dyneema so I should be able to lash just about any part of the boat back together again, Steve.
I did have a spare toggle on board but it was for the larger wire and not an exact fit. I figured I would just pay a visit to the local rigger in St Geoges to get a proper one. He had nothing anywhere near correct so I bent the one I had, a bit, to make it work for the smaller toggle. I never really imaqgined I would need the spare but it came in handy. I also had a bunch of light line I could have used to lash things in place but felt much better about having a proper set up at the beginning of a long offshore passage.
I have since gone to Defender and bought a whole spool of lashing line and some heavier Dyneema so I should be able to lash just about any part of the boat back together again, Steve.
Re: Rigging Toggle Failure
Thanks for the replies Frenchy, Jim and Steve,
Steve you could be right on your work hardening theory. Examination of my failed toggle indicates that it was cracked for some time due to the corroded vs clean break area ratio at about 50/50 maybe 40/60 (corrosion/clean). I also agree with the rear lower seeing the most flexing. Although I don't sail blue water like you I do sail in 30 plus knot conditions often. Also of interest the first thing that I tried was lashing with a 3/16 nylon line. I think that I had 4 turn and it failed in minutes. That made me realize just how much load the shrouds really carry.
In any case to all CDer's please check your toggles for cracks and from Steve and my experience it looks like rear lower need an extra close look.
PS. I also found another source for replacements (Hayne) although not identical to the CS Johnsons. https://www.velasailingsupply.com/our-b ... ggle-jaws/
Steve you could be right on your work hardening theory. Examination of my failed toggle indicates that it was cracked for some time due to the corroded vs clean break area ratio at about 50/50 maybe 40/60 (corrosion/clean). I also agree with the rear lower seeing the most flexing. Although I don't sail blue water like you I do sail in 30 plus knot conditions often. Also of interest the first thing that I tried was lashing with a 3/16 nylon line. I think that I had 4 turn and it failed in minutes. That made me realize just how much load the shrouds really carry.
In any case to all CDer's please check your toggles for cracks and from Steve and my experience it looks like rear lower need an extra close look.
PS. I also found another source for replacements (Hayne) although not identical to the CS Johnsons. https://www.velasailingsupply.com/our-b ... ggle-jaws/