love get photos of kubota exhaust installtion

[arch007]

Would love to get either photos or description of installation of the
kubota beta 14 exhaust installation. I have a cape dory 28.

Specifically ehe goose necks to avoid flooding the engine and how to attach the muffler to the boat so it is not free standing. Also anything else I need to watch out for.

Also how to disassemble the muffler or mixing elbow to check for corrosion.

Thanks,

arch

[Maine_Buzzard]

Order a high rise exhaust from Farron at Beta Marine NC, and you should be in good shape. Add a vented loop to the circuit from the heat exchanger to the exhaust injection port.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=3534406


Beta 14 installation into a CD 30 with V drive. Muffler plate was 1/2" plywood sealed with fiberglass and tabbed into the hull. Sand liberally and glue using silica thickened epoxy. I could pick up half the boat from the bracket after glassing it in place.

I am so very sick of Photobucket. The free version is rife with irritating adverts, and paid versions are robbery. Dumping them for photo sharing like this. Expect to see the link broken in a few weeks.



This is the standard elbow. A high rise would not get the injection point over the waterline, so I was careful about the vented loop installation.

Muffler is fiberglass, no corrosion there. You can see the drain screw at the bottom, the muffler is tilted slightly towards it when the boat is level. (maybe 1/4" slope)

For layup, warm up the engine with a 5 gallon bucket, garden hose, and temporary hose running to the raw water strainer. When it's warm, shut off the garden hose, let the water level get low, then pour in a gallon of -100F engine storage antifreeze (blue stuff, not -50 RV pink) Let that gallon get sucked up, then repeat with 3 more gallons to get the concentration up.

Shut off the engine, then drain the muffler, remove the impeller, and remove the exhaust hose from the exhaust riser. Feel inside the port for thinning just downstream of the injection point. Look for cracks on the outside too. Put some dessicant bags into a 1 gallon ziplock bag and rubber band it to the exhaust riser. Leave the hose drained and loose. Cover the inlet horn with another ziploc and rubber band.

Drain the raw water strainer.

Change the oil and filter right now. Takes two minutes with the Beta!

Shut off the diesel tank supply valve. Drain and swap the primary and secondary fuel filters. Don't re-prime yet.

(I commit heresy here- let your conformation bias run wild) I drain the entire diesel tank and let it stay open for the winter. Old diesel goes into the furnace tank, because everyone in the northeast is crazy.

If you choose to fill it up, add the shock treatment of biocide and then top it off. Re- prime if you fill, only until the bleeder screw flows clear diesel. (read the manual if you have not done this yet)

Dump the transmission oil or ATF, and refill as needed.

That's a pretty OCD winterization.

[John Ring]

I swapped out the MD7A for a Beta 14 in my CD28 years ago, great swap.

Beta-14-in-CD28-Tantalus.gif

John Ring

[mgphl52]

I am so very sick of Photobucket. The free version is rife with irritating adverts, and paid versions are robbery. Dumping them for photo sharing like this. Expect to see the link broken in a few weeks.

Instead of pushing pics to other sites, why not just upload them here?