"Leoma" 30K update, auto pilot, windlass

[JD-MDR]

I'm getting most of the kinks out and and took her out single handed last weekend for the first time. I've motored around alone a few times but that was the first time sailing. I really like her. It will probably be a year or two till I finish the aft chain plates, when I haul out again. so the things on my mind now are auto pilot and windlass. I think auto pilot will be first. Everyone speaks so highly of the windvanes . I really don't want a big contraption hanging on my transom. But the praises are so good I will probably go with it. How well do they work under motor and going slowly, in and out of the harbor. I'm not opposed to getting 12 volt auto pilot that hooks to the wheel shaft some how. I searched and found some talk of Raymarines EV100. I have the Edson Worm gear steering. Any comments?. It will probably take me a year to get caught up financially . Then I want the Lewmar Profish 1000 windlass. It might fit under the jib boom but I probably have to move the hole for the chain a little to the side. I'm gonna start painting the cockpit and cabin and deck soon. I can do that little at a time and it won't cost much. I think its all that oxidization that scuffs up so easily. It always looks so dirty. Ventura harbor is really nice,I think I'm gonna like it better than Marina Del Rey. Santa Cruz island is only 20 mi. but Catalina and the city of Avalon is about 60. Some times it's fun to go to the city. Usually I like to anchor in remote coves etc.

[Neil Gordon]

>>Everyone speaks so highly of the windvanes ... How well do they work under motor and going slowly, in and out of the harbor.<<

Wind vanes self steer relative to the wind, without input from a compass. If the wind shifts, so do you! If there's little/no wind, they don't steer at all. Overall, a bad idea in and out of the harbor, slowly or otherwise.

[Joe Mac Phee]

My ketch (like yours) has the Edson worm drive steering. The worm drive is contained in a teak box at the aft end of the cockpit. There does not seem to be any way to connect an auto plot above deck. Mine is a Cetec Benmar (NLA) unit which is a chain drive to the wheel shaft below deck. It obviously is a split unit with separate motor and control units. I would think that any modern auto pilot with a rotary motor drive and separate control could do the job.

[JD-MDR]

I see Benmar Marine is located here in So Cal. I think I will contact them. Any idea how much I will spend?

[Paul D.]

Last year I sent Benmar my old Benmar Course Setter 21. I had tried for three years to get it working with the generous time and assistance of the guy at Benmar. Really went above and beyond, but alas it didn't work. I ended up keeping the rotary motor w/ clutch as it had a custom bronze connection below decks and was a bomber piece of kit.

Understand that no motor like that is manufactured today. The Raymarine ones that look like it are plastic. lower powered motors that are designed to connect to the wheel shaft not the rudder shaft. If you are after a Benmar do talk with the guy there and see if he has a whole set up - motor, compass and control head. You will still likely need custom gearing to attach to your rudder shaft. Otherwise you could try a CPT or other above decks pilot that hooks onto your wheel somehow, which may be simpler even with the worm gear. If I was using the boat for coastal sailing, that is probably how I would go.

http://cptautopilot.com

[mgphl52]

You might try looking for a Simrad unit. The Allied Princess I use to own had one with with chain sprocket on the worm shaft.
I can't say how well it performed as the chain was disconnected when I bought and never used it...

[JD-MDR]

Got some quotes for the auto pilot Its gonna be about $4000 by the time Its done. I don't really want that big ring type thing clamped on my wheel but I guess that's the simplest way. Its a shame to have that nice wooden wheel and all that teak clutterred up with mechanical stuff. I'm looking for a sprocket type like "KAYLA" guys mentioned. I went to Santa Cruz Island last weekend .The boat steers pretty good by itself. so I'll wait for the auto pilot. I ordered the windlass I wanted (Lewmar profish 1000) I can't believe the price differences. Most were about $1140 plus tax . Hodges Marine shipped it yesterday it was $864 plus $5 shipping. It supposed to include the complete kit same as the others. It was really hard to pull my anchor last weekend (30# cqr and 100' 5/16 chain). The revised forecast made me pull the anchor at night because I didn't like the way the stern anchor was set and several day fisherman had left that bay. So I had to pull it twice and don't want to do that anymore. I will have my bowsprit all finished after I put the windlass . I will try to post some photos, also of the islands. Any more comments or suggestions on auto pilots would be appreciated. Thanks

[mgphl52]

Since Tranquil (my previous Allied) is still at GGYC, I'll try to a picture of the worm drive and sprocket this weekend.

[mgphl52]

Here's a pic of the sprocket mounted at the end of the worm drive shaft.
This was for a Simrad autopilot unit. As I said, I never used it but the PO
said it worked well...

[hilbert]

Got some quotes for the auto pilot Its gonna be about $4000 by the time Its done.

Lots of possibilities with $4000 in the kitty.

For example, if you purchased a used Hydrovane windvane and connected a basic tiller pilot to it, then you would have the flexibility to steer by wind or compass.
The Hydrovane would continue to work after an electrical failure and also do double duty as an emergency rudder.
Estimate ~ $2500 for a used hydrovane and another $500 for the tiller pilot and some odds and ends.

http://hydrovane.com/

Just food for thought.

[JD-MDR]

Windlass is installed.Seems to work way better than the one I had on my previous boat.I got the recommended 5/16 chain and 5/8 rope. I have it mounted all the way at the end of the bowsprit thinking it would clear the jib boom. When I put the chain on I realized that springy keeper or rope guard sticks up so I raised the boom with a part from my old bowsprit.. It clears now. I noticed the end piece of the boom is cracked. I'll do it nicely soon Probably I need to modify the pedestal also I'll get the accessory remote switch. 100' chain and 180' rope fits easily in the locker. I did pull the rope back but it probably will all go in by itself. I'll cut those bolts off when I'm sure everything is good. Not sure what is next so I'll go sailing out to the islands. My sails are really in tatters.but that big expense will wait.

[JD-MDR]

A couple more photos. My chain to rope splice. I think i will have to redo it every year or so.It doesn't seem like a very good way to do it but that's the only way it fits through the windlass or I can use all chain. I know the jib boom is jerry rigged. That's just so I can visualize what I need to do. I guess that will be next on the list before that cracked plug in the end breaks. (previous post). Some of you guys do such awesome work I can't even imagine things being so nice. Will someone tell me how I go about describing and replacing that end plug for the jib boom. I hope its a cape dory part from Spartan. I wonder if I should trash the jib boom and the pedestal and the old rotten sail and get roller furling. The self tacking is nice but not that great. I asked for response from other ketch owners but got none. My other boat had roller furling but old fashion type. It wouldn't reef I had to drop it down and hook a hank on working jib or storm jib. I understand the new roller furling also are roller reefing.But still if that setup goes wrong is there a way to put a hank on in its place?I think I would need another forestay.